Tito's - 1987 Toyota 4Runner Build

[4LowandSlow]

Why isn't it vertical, and what size is it? Can't tell with the heat shielding you have on there.

The slope is overall fine, if the size is large enough. Definitely not a smoking gun I was hoping to find.

Its -4 AN fittings and line from the turbo to the pan, With the kit it wanted installed at the top portion of the oil pan, with the length of the line its causes it to have that slope.

heres the very detailed instructions from them!!

 

[4LowandSlow]

Well, Ill let the pictures do the talking...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Lol. That blows, or blows by.... Actually both. Sorry to hear it man.

 

[4LowandSlow]

Lol. That blows, or blows by.... Actually both. Sorry to hear it man.

Name of the game! Gives me an excuse to go all out on the bottom end with pistons and rods to push even more boost then i planned, I feel safe getting 450-500hp out of it with the boost controller turned up

 

[angerhater]

Head gasket? Rings? Or both?

 

[4LowandSlow]

Head gasket? Rings? Or both?

Rings, Its got a fresh MLS headgasket on it. there was some wear in the cylinder walls but thought its wasn't going to be this big of an issue. i was wrong lol

 

[4LowandSlow]

Put a new starter in cause it was turning over slow. And bought a new compression tester, compression is perfect. Found an oil leak on the turbo drain fitting and got that fixed. It was hard to to tell if the smoke was coming out the exhaust or if it was under off of the downpipe. Fix that just to blow out the o ring on the dipstick and started puking out of there lol. Getting a new one tomorrow and waiting for my fitting for a turbosmart oil pressure regulator for the turbo

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That's odd. Could be an oil seal in the turbo, but that would be unusual for it to fail that fast if there wasn't a pressure problem or a drain problem.

 

[cruisermatt]

Is that BS lawnmower air filter on your valve cover your only crankcase vent? That is probably your issue, throw that crap away and see how it does with an open valve cover hole first. Those filters barely flow anything. You probably need to weld like a 10 or 12AN fitting to the valve cover and run a hose to a can.

Also, spend slightly more and get a OTC compression tester. It’s worth it. Harbor freight ones are notoriously all over the place.

 

[4LowandSlow]

Is that BS lawnmower air filter on your valve cover your only crankcase vent? That is probably your issue, throw that crap away and see how it does with an open valve cover hole first. Those filters barely flow anything. You probably need to weld like a 10 or 12AN fitting to the valve cover and run a hose to a can.

Also, spend slightly more and get a OTC compression tester. It’s worth it. Harbor freight ones are notoriously all over the place.

It’s an AutoZone special little air filter lol. I give that a shot and see what happens. I figured I needed a catch can in my life

 

[mtweller]

Run a leak-down test as well. I have a nice tester if you want to borrow it.

 

[4LowandSlow]

Nothing too eventful has happened over the last 6 months, Mostly just been testing and experimenting with all the changes. I have about 6500 miles on the new set up and its working great now. LCE Kit is a POS I'll start with that, I have gone through multiple T3/T4 flange gaskets because the studs, or the nuts will back off the manifold no matter what i do, or what hardware i use. I ended up using some aircraft hardware that allowed me to safety wire the nuts and studs and haven't had anymore issues. IAT were through the roof so it got an intercooler which drop it drastically. The manifold is already rusting due to poor power coating peeling off. My biggest complaint of them all is the turbo... it is advertised as a Garrett turbo, that is not the case with the kit. It is 100% a cheap maxspeedingrod turbo which sucks to hear, there is no oil pressure regulation with the kit, after 3k miles it blew out the turbo seal as it was getting 75+ psi of oil pressure going through it which caused a ridiculous amount of smoke on decel after a hard pull. Replaced the seal and put a turbo smart oil pressure regulator on it, has been smooth sailing since then.

Once i got it running smooth i started turning the boost up and really getting to the power levels i wanted to be at. That was short lived once the clutch started slipping so back down the boost went. Ended up putting a stage 3 clutch and heavy duty flywheel in it. While i was in there i found out one of the transfer case housings was cracked. replaced all the housings and no more leaks. Clutch is now a on and off switch, took getting used to and multiple stalls lol. It also got a new paint job, i was left unsupervised for too long.

With the clutch hooking up great again boost went back up. Been running 25 psi the last 2k miles and its a scary snot rocket. Got 2step and rolling anti lag set up for no other reason than i had the ability to lol. After about 5 times of using it the muffler exploded, doing the math my exhaust wasn't big enough so it has a full 3" exhaust now. Also had the drain line rattle loose off the turbo, that was a nice scare going down the highway.

 

[4LowandSlow]

Took it on its first true wheeling trip last weekend at my buddies property in western NC, this thing is a riot, No issues with not having enough power to grab any gear i want esspecially with the 2 step. Only issue was on the last obstacle when i cracked the ears off the steering box and lost 90% of steering capabilities. Limped it off the trail and threw a new one on and been rolling on ever since. Ill try to upload some videos of the weekend here in a bit.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Rolling antilag, lmao. Glad to hear you're still getting after it bro, it does sound like a riot.

 

[4LowandSlow]

 

[4LowandSlow]

Smooth sailing till it wasn't, Was on my way home from work the other day and barley got into the throttle and went to shift into 3rd to hear the most gosh awful noise I've ever heard a truck make. Was 100% sure i lost a rod out the block, thankfully it was just me loosing 2nd gear. it still drove so i kept on trucking to kroger, went inside and came back out and made it about 400 yards from the parking spot for it to transform into a automatic and every gear was park lol. Brought it up with me up to NC for a 4 day weekend so i could swap out the transmission. Got it apart this morning to investigate the carnage. I'm genuinely impressed with myself on this one, time to hang it on the wall in the shop.

New to me trans is in, drove noise free for 5 miles then 3rd gear started yelling at me, must be the super tech oil I put in there. I’m going to rock it till it goes again.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

.....made it about 400 yards from the parking spot for it to transform into a automatic and every gear was park lol

lmao

 

[4LowandSlow]

Well, it lasted 3 weeks and maybe 250 miles. I was driving back from the gym when 3rd left the country. I was playing around with a new edge at a light, did a hard shift from 2-3 trying to keep the boost up and I knew it was going to be too hard of a shift but I didn’t have enough time to tell my foot not to let out the clutch lol. I was winning till I wasn’t. Drove it home without 3rd and have been thinking about my options.

Option 1 - Go through the transmission and replace 3rd, problem with that is i looked online to see if I could get a 3rd gear set and just replace it. They have 1st, 2nd, 4th, and 5th. 3rd is the only one discontinued, so finding it is going to be fun.

Option 1.5 - Another W56 and turn the boost controller all the way down and have someone hide it behind the dash. Cheap and easy option. (If someone has one please let me know. Just need the transmission no cases)

Option 2 - R150F, I know it’s stronger. Will require 2 adapters for the bell housing and the transfer cases, I’d hate to spend the money for all the adapter and transmission to do the same thing depending on how much stronger the r150 is compared to a W56

Option 3 - Baller status, TH400, I can get a th400 to 3RZ adapter for $320, th400 to Toyota duals for $400, a marketplace th400 and a rebuild kit, I’d have to get a custom TC to mate the 400 to the Toyota flex plate. I like having a manual rig and swore I’d never go back to an auto rig unless it was an LS, but I’m really tired of going through transmissions. I am 0-2 for it when I had planned on the transmission out living the engine.

Option 4 - Sell it and buy a ZR1 to live the divorced dad life I’m trying to make out of the 4Runner

I know I’ll keep moving the fuse around but after the clutch the trans being the fuse is getting annoying. I’ll take u joints or shafts next time.