Hi, guys. I recently became obsessed with understanding the workings of motor vehicles (especially FJ60's, obviously) and I decided to hunt for as much knowledge as I possibly can to tackle the seemingly impossible task of getting my own FJ to run as smoothly as possible.(I have no mechanical experience but I am more than keen to learn as much as possible) I decided to have a go at my timing as I had a s***ty mechanic who gave me really bad advice and did some questionable work on my baby, which resulted in him throwing my timing out. I ended up doing research and tried to do my timing by myself but every time I loosen the hold down bolt to shift the distributor, she dies unless I tighten the bolt really quickly again. Any advice on how I can solve this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Timing issues (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Gimmeurknowledge
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
simply loosening the bolt should not really do anything. When I have loosened bolts on my distributors, they pretty much stay in place (don't move) and the engine stays running. The timing gets changed by rotating the distributor.
If your engine really starts to die when you loosen the hold down bolt, then I would suspect a grounding issue. The distributor is grounded to the engine. I suppose there could be something preventing the distributor from grounding except through the hold down bolt. Even so, you don't need to completely remove the hold down bolt, but just loosen it one turn or so.
There must be more to this story...pics would help, or describe in more detail what you are doing.
Thanks!
If your engine really starts to die when you loosen the hold down bolt, then I would suspect a grounding issue. The distributor is grounded to the engine. I suppose there could be something preventing the distributor from grounding except through the hold down bolt. Even so, you don't need to completely remove the hold down bolt, but just loosen it one turn or so.
There must be more to this story...pics would help, or describe in more detail what you are doing.
Thanks!
Gretsch
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #5
Thank you for your reply. I have heard that it could be a grounding issue,but how do I solve that? It takes 8 turns to loosen my hold down bolt, I have counted everytime
kevin in okinawa
SILVER Star
try asking around in your local clubhouse? Land Cruiser Club – Southern Africa – It is not down in any map; true places never are - https://forum.ih8mud.com/link-forums/south-africa-land-cruiser-club.296/
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks, Kev. I'll give that a shot.
Perhaps your distributor just turns so easily that its moving on its own when you let go of it.
Its also important to understand that while timing is purely a mechanical adjustment there are other factors that will impact how well your truck starts, runs, and shuts off. Before I got to into getting the perfect timing I would:
1. check and adjust the valve clearance
2. insure there are no missing vacuum hoses or gasket leaks on the intake/exhaust manifold and carb gaskets
3. make sure the plugs are new, properly gapped, and NGK or Denso brand specified for your model
4. clean cap, rotor, new wires, health air and fuel filters
5. then verify the timing and vacuum advance.
Also is all the smog equipment still on your truck or has that been removed?
Its also important to understand that while timing is purely a mechanical adjustment there are other factors that will impact how well your truck starts, runs, and shuts off. Before I got to into getting the perfect timing I would:
1. check and adjust the valve clearance
2. insure there are no missing vacuum hoses or gasket leaks on the intake/exhaust manifold and carb gaskets
3. make sure the plugs are new, properly gapped, and NGK or Denso brand specified for your model
4. clean cap, rotor, new wires, health air and fuel filters
5. then verify the timing and vacuum advance.
Also is all the smog equipment still on your truck or has that been removed?
- Thread starter
- #10
Thank you for your reply. I have done all of these checks and yes all of the smog equipment has been removed before I became the owner of the van. As I said above, my mechanic made some very questionable decisions, including replacing my perfectly functional coil and disconnecting my condenser to install a very expensive electronic ignition module. I didn't know any better so I just kept quiet and let him do his thing.
you could fashion a ground wire that connects to a known good ground (like the negative post of the battery) to the metal body of the distributor.
Maybe that’s the culprit. Maybe it needs its own ground.
- Thread starter
- #13
These are interesting points. I have also been thinking of getting rid of the electronic ignition module completely and reverting to my original points and condenser set up, just to see if that might make a difference. But just in case it doesn't work, how would I go about fashioning my own ground wire?
Gretsch
SILVER Star
If memory serves, there is a set screw on the side of the distributor which holds in the advancer pot. You could maybe fashion a lead with crimp on ring terminals which runs from this screw on the distributor body to the negative battery post to ground the distributor. HTH.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #15
Thank a lot Gretsch. I'll give that a shot.
what bolt are loosing and having to tighten down quicley to prevent from dying ?
a 10mm hex tool size
or
a 12mm hex tool size ?
here size matters
reply back my question when u can , then i will explain why i asked just that .............
thanks
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #17
I use a 10 ml socket to loosen and t
I use a 10 mm socket to loosen and tighten the hold down bolt
ok ?
what about the 12mm hex bolt or bolts depending on if you have the original early clamp ?
or
the later correct updated 1 bolt style one ?
do you follow me here ?
u need to loosen and tighten both in a back and forth star patten , if you will .......
- Thread starter
- #19
There is one single 10 mm bolt that holds the dizzy clamp in place. What difference would my socket size make? Or am I missing your point?
your both making my point and missing it too ...
can u post a photos of your current dizzy clamp set up please
this will help explain better
