Tie rod reinforcement braces?

[HomersCanyonero]

Anyone know or runs reinforcement boots/braces/splints/sleeve for the factory tie rods?

I ran into a YouTube video that the new Broncos are bending tie rods like crazy and after-market Bronco braces and/or splints are hitting the market for the new Broncos.

I'm wondering if that would work on Toyotas and is there any products that fit the GX470.

I did see that there were beefy tie rods, but they are spendy $$$$.

I'm hoping that a reinforcement brace is less money like $ and works just as good as the beefy tie rods.

Adding useful links as I find more information...

Tie Bo No - PAIR (GX470) — ACC Garage

Made of stainless steel - these are reinforcements for your factory tie rods. Install Instructions

www.accgarage.com

GX470 Heavy Duty Steering Tie Rods

Description: These are modified tie rods that improve performance compared to the stock tie rods. If you have oversized tires and/or lockers this is a solution to resist tie rod failure when crawling or climbing. Sold as a pair. The kit includes: Land Cruiser Inner and Outer Tie Rods New Land...

toyo-steering.com

Tie Rod "BusterBrace" Set

Overview: During our research and testing of the BroncBushing out on the trail, we determined another major weak point of the Bronco steering is the tie rods, themselves. In an effort to strengthen the tie rods and prevent them from failing on the trail, we developed the Tie Rod "BusterBrace"...

broncbustertx.com

 

[Jstawgn]

The tie bo no probably enough for most people. Too strong and you destroy the rack itself. Gx460 are only 1 mm thicker and thy are a lot less likely to bend already. The rack thread are bigger too so its not really compatible although the mounting seems the same.

You can swap whole steering rack but it have different ratio and I am not sure how the stability control will react. I am afraid it would freak out as it sees a lot more steering input but the vehicle is not changing direction the same rate as the preset mapping in the software.

 

[jiggletits]

Ford issues are not Toyota issues.

Also I’d wager a large % of ‘new Bronco’ owners are dipshits that never offroaded and are breaking s*** because they don’t have a clue how to navigate obstacles.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

I have heard that the tie rods are a weak link on the Toyotas, but the point about shifting the weak link to the rack itself is not good. So, I have the Goldilocks problem...not too weak, not too strong, but just right (which I don't know what just right would mean for beefy tie rod sleeves).

Here's another up and coming solution...

4runner/FJ tie rod sleeves.

Tie rod sleeves are currently sold out.

warfabarmor.com

And these appear to be quality replacements:

Tie Rod End Kit - Fits 2002-2009 GX470 & Prado 120 Series Models (TREGX470)

Tie Rod End Kits for Toyota Land Cruiser Applications

cruiserteq.com

 

[GXO]

I know the company and the man that designed and builds the tie bo no. I prototyped them on my GX.

They work. If you stay oem they are the solution for a bit more insurance and brilliantly designed.

If you upgrade, I would simply wait and save and do the rack upgrade to Tundra or 200 series. It is a game changer.

 

[captainva]

I bought a set of the ACC garage Tie Bo No after bending mine. They seem like they're good quality but I couldn't thread the drivers side in enough to get aligned. Still toed out and I'm talking with them on how to fix that.

 

[Rednexus]

The tie rods (inner and outer) are pretty small, relatively inexpensive, and not that difficult to replace. It might not be a bad idea to keep a spare inner and outer in the GX when wheeling and then just do a trailside repair if needed (a pipe wrench for the inner would be the only specialty tool needed; this could also be used as a hammer to pound out the outer end). Of course it's not possible to perfectly set the toe-in alignment on the trail, but it can be set close enough to drive home and then to the nearest alignment shop.

I do like the sleeves, as they appear inexpensive and would help prevent bending. However the sleeves don't really address what appears to be the weak point, which is the inner tie rod in where it necks down before going into the socket. I'm not sure if the tie rods typically break there or just bend in the area the sleeves are intended to address. It might still be a good idea to carry a spare inner rod if you are hardcore wheeling, even with the sleeves.

 

[captainva]

I have heard that the tie rods are a weak link on the Toyotas, but the point about shifting the weak link to the rack itself is not good. So, I have the Goldilocks problem...not too weak, not too strong, but just right (which I don't know what just right would mean for beefy tie rod sleeves).

Here's another up and coming solution...

4runner/FJ tie rod sleeves.

Tie rod sleeves are currently sold out.

warfabarmor.com

And these appear to be quality replacements:

Tie Rod End Kit - Fits 2002-2009 GX470 & Prado 120 Series Models (TREGX470)

Tie Rod End Kits for Toyota Land Cruiser Applications

cruiserteq.com

Those sleeves miss the part where the tie rod necks down. Thats where they will bend

 

[captainva]

The tie rods (inner and outer) are pretty small, relatively inexpensive, and not that difficult to replace. It might not be a bad idea to keep a spare inner and outer in the GX when wheeling and then just do a trailside repair if needed (a pipe wrench for the inner would be the only specialty tool needed; this could also be used as a hammer to pound out the outer end). Of course it's not possible to perfectly set the toe-in alignment on the trail, but it can be set close enough to drive home and then to the nearest alignment shop.

I do like the sleeves, as they appear inexpensive and would help prevent bending. However the sleeves don't really address what appears to be the weak point, which is the inner tie rod in where it necks down before going into the socket. I'm not sure if the tie rods typically break there or just bend in the area the sleeves are intended to address. It might still be a good idea to carry a spare inner rod if you are hardcore wheeling, even with the sleeves.

I carry a spare set for this exact reason and really no special tools are needed to change them. Just sockets, pliers, a hammer, flathead, and a large wrench. Also the Tie Bo No sleeves do cover the small part of the inner and are why the steering boots need to be modified for them to fit.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Found two photos of bent tie rods. One of an FJC and the other a GX470.

These two bent between the jam nut and the inner rod.

 

[Krackerjacked]

I bent one on my 08 FJ and just kept a spare onboard from then on.
Back then the general consensus was they’d rather replace a tie rod than the whole rack.

 

[jiggletits]

Found two photos of vent tie rods. One of an FJC and the other a GX470.

These two bent between the jam nut and the inner rod.

View attachment 3052776

View attachment 3052777

Those are also on a TC long travel kit which will stress them more. One should really beef up the inner/outer/entire steering rack if you’re adding a few inches between your hubs.

Stock LCA on a modest lift? Not quite the same.

 

[Rednexus]

I bent one on my 08 FJ and just kept a spare onboard from then on.
Back then the general consensus was they’d rather replace a tie rod than the whole rack.

Tie rod(s) are <1 hour of work. A rack is at least 4.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

I went outside to see if my tie rods had any play and they don’t. They are almost 20 years old stock oem ones and zero play.

I have stock LCAs that are 4 years old, TC UCAs, OCD sway bar end links, durobumps, and HD Bilstein 6112s that give me about 2.3” of lift upfront.

I guess that’s a mild lift that doesn’t stress out the tie rods and CV axles.

Oh and I did the diff drop and the upgraded diff support bracket.

So, maybe I’ll just order either oem or 555 inner/outer tie rods, clamps, clips, to carry as spares.

Any advantage or disadvantage to the 555 ones made in Japan?

 

[GXO]

555 is what all the folks using OEM go with that I know that wheel.

 

[captainva]

Found two photos of bent tie rods. One of an FJC and the other a GX470.

These two bent between the jam nut and the inner rod.

View attachment 3052776

View attachment 3052777

That second picture is from my truck and happened a few weeks ago. While winching up an obstacle, I had it turned hard passenger to climb up a rock and my tie rod just bent instead of climbing.

Also after replacing the OEM inners and outers I wouldn't say that there was play but the inner and outer ball joints were not tight and flopped back and forth with just gravity. My truck only has 106k so I would recommend replacing them anyway and definitely keep spares. It only took me 30 minutes at camp with most of the right tools. I did the other side in 15-20 minutes at home so they're easy to swap out. Other thing to go is CVs if you have larger tires and gas it over things. You're not doing east coast rocks though so I'd say you have less to worry about

 

[HomersCanyonero]

@captainva were you able to re-use your existing clamps, clips, boots, and jam nut?

I guess you could always zip tie the boot if needed.

 

[captainva]

For a standard replacement inner and outer you can reuse the boot, outer clamp, and nuts if you want. Inner clamp you can probably reuse if you try but its a pain to get off so I just cut them and used zip ties. The moog parts came with different size nuts so I just reused the factory ones. If you go with the tie bo no then you have to cut the factory boot to make it fit so no outer clamp used

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Got it. I’m going to order the 555 inner and outer tie rods (SR3840, SR3841) and big clamps for the boots.

From what I’ve seen on YouTube and read on forums, the jam nut, the outer clip, and boot itself usually last way longer than the tie rods themselves.

Luckily, mine are close to 20 years and I see no issues. Although, I would probably have to disconnect the outer tie rod to see if there’s flop in the inner tie rod by the rack.

 

[Rednexus]

My OEM inner and outer tie rod ends were also floppy at ~140-150K when I installed my lift and steering rack. They had no excess play, but they were defintiely not tight.