I purchased a cheap Chinese Carb for my '73 FJ, but my throttle linkage does not fit properly. Does anyone know where I can get a throttle bracket similar to this one?
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Throttle bracket on Carb
- Thread starter FJ Jerry 19
- Start date
I made one
A '73 build in USA used a push rod on the throttle. It didn't pull. Cheap carbs have a ball, not a cable groove on the end of the throttle shaft. '72 used the cable groove on the carb.
Have you considered your air cleaner assembly? What intake manifold does the engine have, original from the factory?
Have you considered your air cleaner assembly? What intake manifold does the engine have, original from the factory?
This bracket appears to already be in possession, top, top pic. Regardless, I'm so glad to see that someone is offering this. Also, the thread starter will need a return spring, not just the one on the carb.
- Thread starter
- #6
This is the throttle system that I have. I tried rigging it up, but it tends to bind a bit.the bracket doesn't quite fit where it should.
The bracket is supposed to be at the base of the carb, not the middle section. I've never set one up, but, I think you are missing a riser block under the carb?, and that will get the carb and bracket at the right spot.
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When the carb is upside down, carefully check the torque on the (slotted not Phillips/JIS) screw that has a hole in the middle. Mine came from the factory kinda loose.
NEW GOLD CAD YELLOW ZINC CHROMATE PLATED 2F ENGINE Carb CARBURETOR THROTTLE Return Spring Call Out # 78141A Part # 90506-12034 LIVES ONCE AGAIN ! - VintageTEqParts.com
- NEW GOLD CAD YELLOW ZINC CHROMATE PLATED - 2F ENGINE Carb CARBURETOR THROTTLE Return Spring - Call Out...
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NOS OEM TOYOTA Early F Engine F1.5 DOUBLE Barrel Stops Style Accelerator Cable Assy. 78180-90859 Fits 1968-9/73 - VintageTEqParts.com
- OEM TOYOTA Early Double Barrel STOPS Accelerator Cable Assy - This cable has the Barrel Stop Cylinders on BOTH Ends...
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NEW GOLD CAD YELLOW ZINC CHROMATE PLATED 2F ENGINE Carb CARBURETOR THROTTLE Return Spring Call Out # 78141A Part # 90506-12034 LIVES ONCE AGAIN ! - VintageTEqParts.com
- NEW GOLD CAD YELLOW ZINC CHROMATE PLATED - 2F ENGINE Carb CARBURETOR THROTTLE Return Spring - Call Out...
vintageteqparts.com
- Thread starter
- #10
I will check that out.
Without modifying the bracket, I can't get it to fit using the base screws. I tried mounting using that screw in the middle but it binds just enough.
Without modifying the bracket, I can't get it to fit using the base screws. I tried mounting using that screw in the middle but it binds just enough.
Do you have any kind of carb insulator (#2 in SOR)? They also function for PCV on some years. It could clear what might be the conflict.
www.sor.com
FJ40, FJ45, FJ55 and FJ60 Land Cruiser Carburetors, Parts, Kits & Gaskets
9/69-7/87 Land Cruiser Carburetors, carburetor rebuild kits, rebuilt land cruiser carburetors, jets, gaskets, non USA carburetors
- Thread starter
- #12
Yes, I do. My problem is bracket does fit around the casing and the diaphragm mechanism gets in the way.
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You are using a 73’ throttle linkage and a later style carb. These two things will not work together.
There are making-it-work conflicts, but this isn't one of them. It isn't so much of a later style carb - too short for our later air cleaners; it is more of a non-USA carb. But, modifying an air cleaner assembly so that it..., yeah. Maybe it is a 2F air cleaner bracket and a 2F intake at home, but judging by the earlier insulator, I'd say that it is an F intake.
Some of the brackets (later '73) have the return spring out of that space. Maybe your right, and he needs to modify (bend?) the return spring part of the bracket. The photo (aboove) looks like the return spring was installed on the bracket, both sides. It can be installed like it is oriented on the 2F. He needs to get that bracket installed on the two intake mounting studs, on the top of the china-casting throttle body. Maybe modifying the part, but, not its function.
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No, that’s not correct.
The main issue is the truck uses a cable. It attaches to the bracket he has and the bracket mounts down on the cast iron bolt pattern when mounting carb. He is having an issue with firmest because the later carb he has there has a vacuum diaphragm on the front side of the carb not allowing the linkage bracket to install. Need to either source a correct carb or cobble some make shift linkage bracket.
we haven’t even got to the air cleaner fitment issues…
Push ('73) or pull, both were done with a cable. No issue for the throttle itself. The return spring, I still question, but, a return spring shouldn't be your make-it-or-break-it.
Vacuum diaphragm is important, the orientation of a return spring isn't. Later brackets mount the return spring akin to 2F.
Never will it plug and play with the air cleaner assembly and F-intake manifold. This is the bigger issue.
A rotted '72 carb will be the donor for the part needed on the end of the throttle shaft - just run cable the whole way. But, why not use what someone else already made work, if you have the parts? An all-cable won't easily clear a 2F air cleaner assembly the same way the cable loops on a stock '73.
Vacuum diaphragm is important, the orientation of a return spring isn't. Later brackets mount the return spring akin to 2F.
Never will it plug and play with the air cleaner assembly and F-intake manifold. This is the bigger issue.
A rotted '72 carb will be the donor for the part needed on the end of the throttle shaft - just run cable the whole way. But, why not use what someone else already made work, if you have the parts? An all-cable won't easily clear a 2F air cleaner assembly the same way the cable loops on a stock '73.
- Thread starter
- #17
I thought it was more of a plug and play. I think I am going to scrap the idea and rebuild my original carb. Thanks for all help. Any suggestions on a good rebuild kit?
Wait, some folks run snorkels?
- Thread starter
- #19
Here is a real left-hand turn, but what is the best option for converting over to EFI on a stock 155F?
I see a lot of threads dealing with 2F engines.
Besides the cost, there doesn't seem to be any reason not to convert.
Jerry
I see a lot of threads dealing with 2F engines.
Besides the cost, there doesn't seem to be any reason not to convert.
Jerry
Makes no sense to me to go EFI. The threads on the web are too lengthy (for folks who have already demonstrated competence and skills)- that alone is how I base my opinion.
How can the computer differentiate between a misfire (incomplete burn) and a lean condition? They both read lean on the O2 sensor. That wouldn't matter, other than OEM EFI engines don't misfire because they have designed port, or direct, injection. This TBI thing is for the 1980's.
There is no steady ground on these rigs. Modern vehicles have so many capacitors because they have been tuned so they can work with sensitive electronics. The lamps and charging systems have all these really short moments with voltage spikes - you see it on the ammeter. The ignition is easily heard thru a cheap amplifier - even with the factory 'radio kit.'
I have an O2 sensor installed behind my header, it never got hot enough for when it is important (cold block/ coolant). A downpipe provides a better solution, just keep it from getting sprayed with exhaust steam. These things are better designed using thermal imaging. However, it would be really nice to get a fine mix of fuel and air at startup, and not big fuel droplets that stick to the cold walls of the intake manifold.
How can the computer differentiate between a misfire (incomplete burn) and a lean condition? They both read lean on the O2 sensor. That wouldn't matter, other than OEM EFI engines don't misfire because they have designed port, or direct, injection. This TBI thing is for the 1980's.
There is no steady ground on these rigs. Modern vehicles have so many capacitors because they have been tuned so they can work with sensitive electronics. The lamps and charging systems have all these really short moments with voltage spikes - you see it on the ammeter. The ignition is easily heard thru a cheap amplifier - even with the factory 'radio kit.'
I have an O2 sensor installed behind my header, it never got hot enough for when it is important (cold block/ coolant). A downpipe provides a better solution, just keep it from getting sprayed with exhaust steam. These things are better designed using thermal imaging. However, it would be really nice to get a fine mix of fuel and air at startup, and not big fuel droplets that stick to the cold walls of the intake manifold.
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