Thoughts on a 200 - Glass Issue?

[Overland Tailor]

Gents -

80 guy in the 200 section, so I apologize

I'm looking at 200's and have found a Gray / Terra 2018 with 7,500 miles in the Southeast that was traded for a 19 GMC Yukon XL Denali for more "Cargo Space".

Unfortunately the truck already had its windshield replaced and its a Fuyao Chinese replacement and had a trim issue.

In pulling the service records I found the Toyota dealer that serviced the truck. I called there today and as luck would have it, was able to speak with the service advisor who serviced that vehicle. He told me that the trim piece was not installed correctly during glass replacement and was pulled up during a car wash.

Toyota then installed a new trim piece and he advised that all was good after that. The advisor was shocked that that family switched to GMC, but did tell me that they have the cash to buy a new 2018 and trade it the next day if they wanted.... So I feel a bit better that this was not a dump and run....

I'm always cautious and bummed about a glass replacement on a truck that new, but is my OCD getting in the way here?

Not sure if I'm ready to move platforms, but I tend to research and plan ahead...... So apologies.

Thanks in advance,


John

 

[M1911]

Anyone can have a rock kicked up and break a windshield, even on a new vehicle.

My concern would be whether there was water intrusion. Do you have access to the full maintenance records? Any service visits for wonky electrical issues.

That truck is still new enough for a Toyota Platinum extended warrant, which you should be able to pick up for under $2k. That might bring some peace of mind.

 

[Overland Tailor]

Agree on the rock, its unfortunate, but it happens all the time.

Yep - I've pulled all (3) Service records and no problems. I actually called the servicing dealer, they pulled the info and verified.

If I make the change to the 200 platform and go look at the ruck, I'll probably have them hose it down for 10 minutes while I'm inside and check for any intrusion and also listen during highway speeds..

Anyone in the Manassas, VA area??


Thanks!

John-

 

[swatski]

So that's how to release the clip. I knew there must be a simple effective way. My molding on RH side was barely hanging on broken clips, so came off easy with just a suquees and a pull.

Thanks for posting the video. I'd use him, he's done a few 200 series for sure!

Looking at my windshield molding the installer must have learned on RH side how to remove clips. As he broke three clip and sprung the RH molding. He also used a (cheat as they call it) on RH prying molding with metal (likely) tool against A pillar, which I see all to often. He also used urethane to glue down top clip, which is ok. I like this guy saying he'd use epoxy glue, better. But why if he has the clips in his kit that is best.

Few things I'd have done to prep for even this installer or asked he do.

I would have removed the inside side moldings. They usually can do without scuffing as they pull wire rope around, as he seem to be able too. But sometime they mare them. In the 100 series I do all molding and rivets.

I would have used body tape (thick yellow) on A pillars. The backing of molding is metal. If it scrape "A" pillar, it damages the paint.

I'd taken off molding under the hood in perp. Or at least ask he not use the metal tool as he did on fenders, only plastic body tools anytime body contact is made.

I didn't see him using razor (but he must have) to level old urethane around windshield. I always see this done after removing the glass. The wire/rope leaves uneven old unrathan on body as it cuts around glass. This can result in windshield being seated to far from body if not razored level. It may also result in a bad seal. This razoring around the perimeter is a necessary evil. At least evil with the older models like the 100 series. The 100 series has body panel bump-out along top. The bump-outs as I call them, give roofline additional rigidity. Very often as they razor they will nick these bump outs, which is leading cause of rust under the windshield on the 100 series. If they spot the nick and prime with self etching primer it fine. But it's just near impossible to see them. In newer vehicles they have made are much more friendly to the razoring, being wide, flater and open.

I didn't see him remove clips from rivets. I would like to know if he had way to release those also. Clipping them off works (as I did) but destroys them.

I saw him use the adhesion promoter (primer) on glass, then some on body in just a few spots. These spots he primed on body, I was unclear on why. I have seen this used on painted surfaces to promote adhesion of urethane, that's great. I've also seen it used on nicks to cover bare metal, this is very bad. Safelite gave me a bottle to cover bare metal I was derusting under a windshield. I used it and then received a call back from manufactures rep. He explained it is only a adhesion promoter "primer" for urethane and should not be used on bare metal as it will rust. Like bare metal found in nicks that cut through paint to metal. So if he was covering nicks it was a mistake that I find very common by installer. The bottle of adhesion promoter is only marked "Primer", poor labelling IMHO.

It looked like he had the complet OEM kit. Using the adhesive dams SWEET. Look like Toyota/lexus PN sticker on glass, SWEET. New molding and clips, NICE. But said he was going to epoxy the top clips? I assume he had glass stopper but he didn't show using them. 100 series have these stoppers also, and I've never seen them used either. On 100 series where these stopper fit on body, they have small holes leading into cabin. Installers have learned (the hard way) to tape back as dam and fill with urethane. I say hard way as this is a leak point that has cost installer do to water damage. When I read about water damage after a 200 series install, I assume it was from these small holes not being dammed, but I don't know that.

He pointed to headliner an said something about bending, but never came back to it. Not sure what that was, look like headline clip broken.

Lastly he did not use a hood protector. He was careful but still it just good practice.

I know it's little much, well maybe a lot nit picking. But I've dealt with the bad job all to often on the 100 series. I believe it worth ones time to learn proper procedure and be involved.

 

[Overland Tailor]

Certainly gives me pause as I have no idea on the practices of the installer.

When i replaced my 80 windshield I met with the installer and verified they would follow the FSM.. The day he showed to replace it, I met him, handed him the printnout of the FSM and confirmed he has no questions..

He followed it to the letter and got a $40 tip for not cutting corners...


Having said that and not knowing if the replacement is a botch job or not, repeating the above process with a new windshield would solve that problem on the 200....

Finding a good used Gray/Terra in a rust free state is not as easy as I would have thought.

Thanks all

J

 

[c4xplsv]

Safelite Bubba’d my trim pieces and had to replace with new OEM. They look perfect now - but the trim can be a challenge (as I’ve found). I wouldn’t let glass drive me off unless something was really off. Get a body shop or glass shop to inspect, then run with that.

 

[SQRRRL]

I used the dealers installer. No problems.

 

[options2]

Maybe just replace that cheap glass again with a better alternative from a trusted glass shop or the dealer like suggested???

IDK / shrug

Sometimes I feel like its getting harder and harder to find quality help / labor on anything. Whether its auto or home. Which really is frustrating since those are like the two biggest costs in ones life.

 

[Overland Tailor]

Maybe just replace that cheap glass again with a better alternative from a trusted glass shop or the dealer like suggested???

IDK / shrug

Sometimes I feel like its getting harder and harder to find quality help / labor on anything. Whether its auto or home. Which really is frustrating since those are like the two biggest costs in ones life.

Appreciate all the responses. Thats kinda where I'm at. If all other things look good on any truck purchase, I don't think it prudent to pass on what could be and miss an opportunity.

Still throwing this around and will be driving a local 18 this Friday / Saturday and will make a decision on a possible platform change... I wonder what the dealership will think when I spend an hour just Looking at the truck, imagining a build.... Probably, a, sir, you need to move along now.......

 

[options2]

Appreciate all the responses. Thats kinda where I'm at. If all other things look good on any truck purchase, I don't think it prudent to pass on what could be and miss an opportunity.

Still throwing this around and will be driving a local 18 this Friday / Saturday and will make a decision on a possible platform change... I wonder what the dealership will think when I spend an hour just Looking at the truck, imagining a build.... Probably, a, sir, you need to move along now.......

Take your time and check everything. Make sure you like it. I went back and forth for about a month before I bought my 200. Ended up getting a brand new one for a pretty descent price. Even though I was originally looking at a 2018 used one.

Speaking of, if anyone is looking for a 2018 Silver one. There is one at my local dealer outside of St Louis, MO. It was a demo for the owner and has just 9000 miles on it. Probably could get a good deal one it. I know they wanna sell it. They also have 2 more new 2018, and a 2019.

 

[LALC]

I read in past threads here and didn't do the research myself, but kept this memory in the back of my head, so correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the OEM stock windshield was thicker than what places like Safelite would replace with. It would of course be more expensive to go OEM I would assume, but the sound dampening and security of thicker glass could be worth it to some. After reading that, I made up my mind to always get OEM and pay the extra cost to have it replaced correctly at the dealer. I suppose I should do the research for myself, though.

 

[Bradass80]

Would one of you guys mind attaching a copy of the page from the FSM showing the install of a new windshield? Unfortunately I'm going to have to get the original windshield replaced on my 200. TIA, Brad

 

[SWUtah]

I read in past threads here and didn't do the research myself, but kept this memory in the back of my head, so correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the OEM stock windshield was thicker than what places like Safelite would replace with. It would of course be more expensive to go OEM I would assume, but the sound dampening and security of thicker glass could be worth it to some. After reading that, I made up my mind to always get OEM and pay the extra cost to have it replaced correctly at the dealer. I suppose I should do the research for myself, though.

OEM glass is not only laminated but it blocks 99% of the UV rays definitely go OEM

 

[Sac Cerevisiae]

Would one of you guys mind attaching a copy of the page from the FSM showing the install of a new windshield? Unfortunately I'm going to have to get the original windshield replaced on my 200. TIA, Brad

I can tomorrow. What year(s)? The FSM has minor changes depending upon MY.

 

[Bradass80]

Thanks for doing that. It's a 2010 LX. Brad

 

[Sac Cerevisiae]

Thanks for doing that. It's a 2010 LX. Brad

Attached are the "Windshield Glass" pages from the FSM for a 2010 LX 570.

 

[Bradass80]

Thank you Sir, very much appreciated. Brad