There has been some debate...

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Joined
Oct 26, 2006
Threads
19
Messages
368
Location
Camp Hill, PA
..as to the state of my mental well being. I'm here to say that I'm feeling clearer than ever:grinpimp:

And here's proof

http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t254/KuddyS/Birth of the Buggy/


Now where did I put my axles and tubing.

PS Jeff. I don't need the breakdown for the 4.3 harness. I believe I'll go with propane and stuff it in the mess I'm making.

I'll update as I get more done.:beer:
 
Full width dana 60's, 4.3 on propane, full cage, 4.7 marlin t case, and I'm thinking 39.5 for the tires. I'm stil debating: 700r4 or dual cases.

Going to leave as much of the front intact as possible. I like heat in the winter and my tunes, and I'm keeping the 4 seats so the kids can ride.

I went out with a couple of buggies on Sat than took a ride in one. You couldn't wipe the smile off my face with a shovel:D
 
Wow. Keep sending the progress report and pics. This looks cool.
:beer:
 
Now your gonna make me swing by after work and see what the hell your doing. Looks like it will be fun to build and when your done. So I guess your not gonna be wheeling at Rausch this weekend with the Runner :D
 
So let me ask...... why ya gonna run D60's? Got a spare set just lying around?:)

Mini axles (V6 rear, solid front) with longs and chromo inners will run larger size tires if your rig is light... just my opinion.. getcha some 2" BS steel wheels with beads and your there:D

Sounds like a great build...let me also extend to you this thought: you already have the drop-in's.. an auto tranny offers a lot of control.. so I would suggest you may not need the doubler initially....
keep us updated!
 
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That is going to be one sweeeet ride..
 
More interested in full width than anything for the stability. I have a nasty habit of pushing it to the ragged edge.

And yes, I will be wheeling it this weekend. I'm not ready for the axle swap yet.

Anyone have recomendations on what to build the cage out of. I'm thinking 2 x .125 dom, but it sounds like a touch overkill.
 
I know lotsa people using 1 5/8 HREW.... with proper triangulation it has held on typical offroad rolls, slow, flops, enders, etc. FWIW

I hear ya about the stability... one idea to keep the rig as low as possible by locating suspension through the frame rather than on the bottom of the frame rail, and other tweaks to keep your COG low will then offset the need to be full width. 2" BS wheel and minitruck V6 rear with front solid axle and a spacer sounds like something to consider but it is just my two cents. I have seen where full width axles are a hinderance to "fitting" on a trail. Rausch is really cut for full size trucks but many other places are not.

Either way, something to chew on : ) I love your idea for a 4runnner truggy:cool:

In this shot, if the suspension was dropped ever so slightly (W/ 1/2 ton chevy's rear, rear minitruck springs up front both hung through the frame and stretch the wheelbase), chop the fenders and quarters, and the width would appear to be good, that and add your 39.5" Swampies and WOW:eek:

A friend of mine ran full width D44's under a mini w/4-link and 5.0 Ford... worked OK but in narrower spots..

HPIM0816.jpg
 
The owner does. Thinks the FJ is great, and loves the idea of the buggy. He may even be going up to werock at RC. We also share a love of diesel pickups. My other neighbor and I have an understanding. I understand about his bandsaws and woodworking, and he understands about my 4x4's and metalwork.:)



And what is HREW?
 
And what is HREW?

Hot Rolled Electric Welded

More on the topic: "HREW is a 1010 steel, DOM is 1020. The 10 and 20 represent the amount of Carbon in the steel. The higher carbon
content make the steel much stronger. Yield strength on 1010 is around 45,000 psi and DOM is around 70,000 and 4130 is around 90,000. So you can see the strength difference. Also, DOM is "work-hardened" or forged if you will. The Steel itself becomes denser and the surface tougher.


DOM is a process and means "drawn over mandrel". Typically you use DOM when you require precise thicknesses in the ID, OD or wall thickness of a tube. Hydraulic applications come to mind. It is not seamless but is made from sheet steel, rolled and electric resistance welded and finally, DOM'ed. DOM is a cold process. Most typically it is made from low to medium carbon steel. Often a low carbon steel application is preferred because of it's ability to be formed easily. The higher the carbon content, the harder it
becomes to bend.

More: HREW has a seam weld, as does DOM, but DOM is taken a few steps further and as far as I can tell, it's basically like a heat treating and then it's rolled over a die to counteract the welding and cold working abnormalities for a straighter stronger piece of tubing. But as far as strength goes in cages and other automotive applications, HREW will sufficiently do the job except for like steering columns (saftey sake) and driveshaft tubes."


Anyway, searching forums results in a lot of debate. DOM is preferred but not necesarry (depending on the design of the cage and welding techniques)... but I have friends who have well designed HREW tube cages that have taken hard rolls.. not that anyone should skimp on a cage but I guess it is debatable if it is skimping... DOM is X2$...
 
Are you going to weld the back tailgate section back onto the body?? this should be fun to watch

I'm always fun to watch, and no, I built one out of sheet metal. Just posted the pics of the start of it. I have to cut it down in the center, drill tailight holes, and paint it. I have a tire carrier to go on yet, but have to run power to the garage for the big welder.

Thanks Jeff. I thought thats what you meant, but I'd never heard that term.

HPIM0824.jpg


I forgot how much welding to sheet metal sucks.
 
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Damn the Red X!

I gots no pic . . . can you try to put it up again?

got it now. i'll check the link more frequently--thanks!
 
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Did you try the link in my first post. Their all in photobucket. The picture I posted comes up fine on mine. (I don't have a silver star yet so I'm limited)
 
Since I was home ill, I thought I'd at least get something done. Tailgates on and painted. Ran power to the welder. Put on the tire carrier, high lift, and tried the bender. Built sliders. It was my first time bending and their off a little. Not bad, not good, I'll call them functional. I lifted the whole side of the truck with them so I guess they'll pass. Then I put a little paint on everything to try to keep the rust down.

I've been having a problem with the driveshaft hitting the fuel tank at full stuff on the right side. Found the front hanger bolts have been ovaling out the holes in the hanger from the bolts being too small. This let the axle move almost an inch between both sides. So I pulled the bolts, greased everything, put a sleeve in the bushings, and welded grade 8 washers to the holes. Installed bigger bolts, now that should make a hell of a difference.

I'll post more pictures after work.
 
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