Builds "The Rook" - (re)Build Thread - 2017 LX 570 (2 Viewers)
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- Thread starter
- #103
For todays entertainment,
Redarc Liberty Tow Controller & Pedal Commander Install:
Trying to wrap up things before we move so I can zip up my racks and pack the garage up. Ive got everything done i needed to and will be towing a big 16' enclosed and braked trailer alongside the movers in their van. I can finally be done with "work" on the truck until the big 80K overhaul ill do once were settled in the H. What I thought would be a quick 30 min job became a bit of an hour long chore... Im particular about my cable management. Since there is really no good guide for the 2016+ LX, I took photos as i went. Sorry the order is a bit jumbled as I thought this was much simpler than it ended up being.
I used the Liberty Toyota big BoF kit from Summit, shipped in 2 days. I probably wont be ever pulling an off road camper and the price was better. More importantly to that, I usually buy the top shelf stuff but I didnt want any red button in my cabin, you know since im crazy. It matches a lot more nicely in white and grey.
Three clips, and two connectors for the kick plate. (TPMS reset & bulb)
Two phillips / hex head screws. One hidden.
Then the apron can be unclipped by pulling straight out. I also disconnected the pull cables (push straight back to unhook), and connectors to the switches (reconnected them one by one). Then everything can be easily accessed from the bottom. The airbag cover is clipped separately and does not need to be touched. I also removed the knee pad to avoid scratching up the leather just in case. It just pulls straight out very easily.
I used this as an attempt to plan for the eventual fuel tank switch and this is where the 2016+ LX really changes things up...
Now that the fascia (apron) is off, you can pull out the coin / whatever cubby. You can see on its edge that the apron has a lip seat (i thought they were fused at first) that will need to be out of the way before it is also pulled straight back and out.
The top row of buttons here is unclipped from the side after removing the door facing side panel. It does not need to really be removed but I as you can see, it was a lot easier to grasp and remove what turned out to be the module holding the only other blank.
I'm not sure how I will switch up a tank fill or 2nd tank sender read button here.
10 image limit reached.
Redarc Liberty Tow Controller & Pedal Commander Install:
Trying to wrap up things before we move so I can zip up my racks and pack the garage up. Ive got everything done i needed to and will be towing a big 16' enclosed and braked trailer alongside the movers in their van. I can finally be done with "work" on the truck until the big 80K overhaul ill do once were settled in the H. What I thought would be a quick 30 min job became a bit of an hour long chore... Im particular about my cable management. Since there is really no good guide for the 2016+ LX, I took photos as i went. Sorry the order is a bit jumbled as I thought this was much simpler than it ended up being.
I used the Liberty Toyota big BoF kit from Summit, shipped in 2 days. I probably wont be ever pulling an off road camper and the price was better. More importantly to that, I usually buy the top shelf stuff but I didnt want any red button in my cabin, you know since im crazy. It matches a lot more nicely in white and grey.
Three clips, and two connectors for the kick plate. (TPMS reset & bulb)
Two phillips / hex head screws. One hidden.
Then the apron can be unclipped by pulling straight out. I also disconnected the pull cables (push straight back to unhook), and connectors to the switches (reconnected them one by one). Then everything can be easily accessed from the bottom. The airbag cover is clipped separately and does not need to be touched. I also removed the knee pad to avoid scratching up the leather just in case. It just pulls straight out very easily.
I used this as an attempt to plan for the eventual fuel tank switch and this is where the 2016+ LX really changes things up...
Now that the fascia (apron) is off, you can pull out the coin / whatever cubby. You can see on its edge that the apron has a lip seat (i thought they were fused at first) that will need to be out of the way before it is also pulled straight back and out.
The top row of buttons here is unclipped from the side after removing the door facing side panel. It does not need to really be removed but I as you can see, it was a lot easier to grasp and remove what turned out to be the module holding the only other blank.
I'm not sure how I will switch up a tank fill or 2nd tank sender read button here.
10 image limit reached.
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- Thread starter
- #104
Part 2
Now that everything is out I was able to temp route the cables and spent an incredibly long amount of time getting the velcro strapping in around what i think is the hard drive? The Redarc units all fit perfectly here, and I was not satisfied with fitment options elsewhere. The RJ45 term. cable (whatever it may be) was routed out the top and to the right and the harness down and to the left. You will have to pull all these panels to do this well. You can see how much room you have to play with from the front. Barely any.
Harness access, clipped to the left in a dummy holder which is a nice detail to see. As well as a ground post right there.
Heres how I tied things up. The Pedal Commander was fitted in a way that this apron could be removed without any issue. I used the provided velcro to stick it down on the other side, and it can just be unclipped from its provided base, pushed to the side, and everything can come out for service.
Now that everything is out I was able to temp route the cables and spent an incredibly long amount of time getting the velcro strapping in around what i think is the hard drive? The Redarc units all fit perfectly here, and I was not satisfied with fitment options elsewhere. The RJ45 term. cable (whatever it may be) was routed out the top and to the right and the harness down and to the left. You will have to pull all these panels to do this well. You can see how much room you have to play with from the front. Barely any.
Harness access, clipped to the left in a dummy holder which is a nice detail to see. As well as a ground post right there.
Heres how I tied things up. The Pedal Commander was fitted in a way that this apron could be removed without any issue. I used the provided velcro to stick it down on the other side, and it can just be unclipped from its provided base, pushed to the side, and everything can come out for service.
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- Thread starter
- #105
Part 3
Everything was routed up and behind the steering column. All cables here were zip tied instead of velcro here so i could cinch them down where I wanted.
I used the most unobstructed path and followed the factory wiring route.
Now the weird part was this extra 8 pin connector on reassembly. I believe it was just there off the right, but i didnt notice it until the end. It is apparently either the remote start connector or something my LX has relocated... Still unsure as I have to dig around. Shoutout @grinchy for my emergency support call lol. The squeeze back in was a little tight there, but that right angle connector did the job. Not sure if the straight end would have worked.
All done looking nice and neat.
Everything was routed up and behind the steering column. All cables here were zip tied instead of velcro here so i could cinch them down where I wanted.
I used the most unobstructed path and followed the factory wiring route.
Now the weird part was this extra 8 pin connector on reassembly. I believe it was just there off the right, but i didnt notice it until the end. It is apparently either the remote start connector or something my LX has relocated... Still unsure as I have to dig around. Shoutout @grinchy for my emergency support call lol. The squeeze back in was a little tight there, but that right angle connector did the job. Not sure if the straight end would have worked.
All done looking nice and neat.
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burtlively
SILVER Star
AnyMal, is this what you installed on your LX?
westcottdesigns.net
I didn’t see an LX specific one. Thanks in advance!
Land Cruiser (200 Series) Preload Collar Lift Kit - Westcott Designs
Westcott Designs preload collar lift kit for the 200 series Toyota Land Cruiser (2008-21’). This kit is fore the entirety of the vehicle, not the front only.
I didn’t see an LX specific one. Thanks in advance!
- Thread starter
- #107
AnyMal, is this what you installed on your LX?
Land Cruiser (200 Series) Preload Collar Lift Kit - Westcott Designs
Westcott Designs preload collar lift kit for the 200 series Toyota Land Cruiser (2008-21’). This kit is fore the entirety of the vehicle, not the front only.
westcottdesigns.net
I didn’t see an LX specific one. Thanks in advance!
Thats the kit indeed!
What are your goals and current mods if any?
One thing to note is that the lift numbers quoted there do not apply on the AHC 200s. What this will do however is restore your ride quality after a sensor adjustment lift, as well as correct your rear end coil deficit by making them effectively “taller”.
The included 12.5mm front shock spacer should be drop in with your shock top studs but it will be close. You will not need any bumstop increase either if you stick with just that one although shims are included. Also, no strut disassembly required, but you will need an alignment immediately after install, so have that lined up. Don’t forget AHC fluid either!
burtlively
SILVER Star
Thanks! My rig has just under 350,000 on the odometer and has never had new anythin, so I will be replacing globes, shocks, and springs. I have probably a too radical ahc lift with additional brackets. I am looking to smooth my ride out a bit without sacrificing the look if that makes sense. I don’t do any off roading. Just like the look.
- Thread starter
- #109
Perfect choice for you then. This will relieve some lift pressure, give you more adjustability feel in damping, and probably extend the life of your new globes.
If you haven’t done so already, consider buying twin usa right hand coils for your rears. Its not everyone’s recommendation but i got a pass from a source to do this. On stock rig the left rear is shorter and that seems to be suboptimal for a LHD rig.
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burtlively
SILVER Star
Should have given you credit in my initial post. I ordered 2 rights based on what I read from your post.
burtlively
SILVER Star
My experience has been amazing. It is a beast of a vehicle. I could make the argument that the powertrain is second to none as I have 2 other vehicles with the same and there’s a combined 800k with similar experiences. My dad always told me to keep the oil changed and pay a little attention to the maintenance and your vehicles will be kind to you and last a long time. I’m nowhere near as compliant on maintenance as many of y’all are. I’m getting better tho.
Is this the "Rear Shock Mount Mod" required for 37's on a 200? Thanks.
Thanks, a little more searching and I found them.
- Thread starter
- #118
Stole these:
Will be refinished in gloss black as soon as i find a wheel shop around me that speaks english lol
Tires will be 275/60r20 (magic 33s gearing wise) or 275/65r20 (34s)
Thinking of going pirelli scorpion plus
Who wants my existing fitment?
Will be refinished in gloss black as soon as i find a wheel shop around me that speaks english lol
Tires will be 275/60r20 (magic 33s gearing wise) or 275/65r20 (34s)
Thinking of going pirelli scorpion plus
Who wants my existing fitment?
I just had the LRA 12.5 gal aux tank installed in my 2016 LX. I didn’t install it myself because I actually can’t even buy it directly from the distributor since they won’t ship it to a CA address. Luckily a very reputable local shop here was able to source it pretty quickly and installed it for me. It doesn’t give me the same knowledge as someone who did it themselves, but just wanted to point something out since there isn’t much out there on installing these in a 2016+ LX.
There’s not a lot of options on where to install the aux tank switch/gauge because of the depth. To complicate my (and your) situation a little bit more, I had already installed my Redarc trailer brake controller in the blank switch panel.
Here’s basically the only place the shop was able to install it.
There’s not a lot of options on where to install the aux tank switch/gauge because of the depth. To complicate my (and your) situation a little bit more, I had already installed my Redarc trailer brake controller in the blank switch panel.
Here’s basically the only place the shop was able to install it.
Mind sharing a link to the info? I thought that and a pan hard bar spacer was all that was required. Oh and some cutting
