The official 1HDT Intercooler thread (5 Viewers)
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I have used those on the rig when it was a TRD charged 1-FZ. Was hoping to find a one-piece unit to cut down on the number of clamps, as going with two silicone 90's and some stainless plumbing adds 4 clamps to that hose section.
Any folks in OZ know if local dealers there can source the Safari Part, #380-043-350? Hitting dead-ends in the US.
I can ask while I'm doing my research.
If you want to contact any of ARB, Terrain Tamer, or Opposite lock (distributors) in Melb I can collect and post it to you.
Might have to take you up on that one. eMail contacts would be best, as the time difference is +19 Melb vs. North Idaho.
AussieHJCruza
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I'll check with our account managers and let you know.
AussieHJCruza
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@CycloSteve yep they're still available. Drop me a PM and we can get it sorted for you.
Hi All,
Context - giving my cranky old 91 HDJ80R a bit of a freshen up with a Redback 3" system, and now investigating turbo upgrades and intercooling.
I have what might sound a dumb question... but I keep seeing turbo-intercooler piping coming all the way up to the top of the engine bay, past the airbox, and then back down under the battery tray. It seems to me that this introduces a heap of unneccessay pipe length (= lag?) when it looks like there would be room to keep it low and more or less horizontal from turbo to the panel cut out.
Has anyone seriously investigated this option?
I can see several valid reasons for going high - ease of install not having to remove airbox, turbo outlet alignment (factory setup) and even stylistically balancing the return piping to the manifold... so is the extra effort just not worth the minor upside?
There also seems to be a LOT of silicone used where stainless/ally piping and bends are quite feasable, introducing more clamps, failure points, and a less smooth internal pathway - again ease of install? Materials cost?
I am thinking about trying to save some coin on the DPI system (which is also not available until January) and cobbling together a 600x300x75 core, manifold adaptor, and plumbing myself. I have basic fab ability and tools including welding ally, so if I am going to do it myself I might as well try to optimise the result.
Thankyou everyone for compiling such an incredible resource!
Context - giving my cranky old 91 HDJ80R a bit of a freshen up with a Redback 3" system, and now investigating turbo upgrades and intercooling.
I have what might sound a dumb question... but I keep seeing turbo-intercooler piping coming all the way up to the top of the engine bay, past the airbox, and then back down under the battery tray. It seems to me that this introduces a heap of unneccessay pipe length (= lag?) when it looks like there would be room to keep it low and more or less horizontal from turbo to the panel cut out.
Has anyone seriously investigated this option?
I can see several valid reasons for going high - ease of install not having to remove airbox, turbo outlet alignment (factory setup) and even stylistically balancing the return piping to the manifold... so is the extra effort just not worth the minor upside?
There also seems to be a LOT of silicone used where stainless/ally piping and bends are quite feasable, introducing more clamps, failure points, and a less smooth internal pathway - again ease of install? Materials cost?
I am thinking about trying to save some coin on the DPI system (which is also not available until January) and cobbling together a 600x300x75 core, manifold adaptor, and plumbing myself. I have basic fab ability and tools including welding ally, so if I am going to do it myself I might as well try to optimise the result.
Thankyou everyone for compiling such an incredible resource!
It can be done, I changed the manifold and made an air box, but it keeps the pipes low and the air conditioner pump still fits, x3 silicone 90s on the pressure side. If you have the ability to weld aluminum then you can run it however you like
Thanks for that. Your setup looks incredible.It can be done, I changed the manifold and made an air box, but it keeps the pipes low and the air conditioner pump still fits, x3 silicone 90s on the pressure side. If you have the ability to weld aluminum then you can run it however you like
View attachment 2854642
View attachment 2854643
A custom airbox and manifold is on my wishlist, but not at the top, though playing with a stock box is not such a huge undertaking. Retaining the AC definitely is a necessity. Did you clock the Mamba to get a better angle on the compressor outlet? That's the Eclipse exhaust manifold too, yeah?
If you had the time again would you change/do anything different?
Only thing I want to change is make a 90 degree 2inch to 3 inch “horn” and weld it to the turbo, then to a v-band clamp,that’s the only place I’ve blown the silicone off, and it was only moving 24 psi, I have a spare 1hdt that I want to get to 40 psi and it will need to be addressed for that setup. And paint it black.
Are you already running 3" piping? Seems like that's pretty big diameter for intercooler piping for the 1HD-T isn't it? Potentially more lag?
A bit off topic, but it looks like you have two EGT probes. Do you see much or any difference in EGT front bank to rear bank?
Yes all of the piping and manifold are 3 inch. I would need one with 2 or 2.5 inch piping to drive around to see if there is any lag, I don’t notice any, but the runs are pretty short. I bet I’m pretty close to the same volume as 2.5 in piping because I use less piping by going under the ac compressor and battery tray, and then into the front of the manifold as opposed to up and over everything. Correct on the 2 egt probes, I wanted to monitor the rear cylinder with the log manifold, largest variation has been 40 degrees , and I actually think that is within the allowable +/- of the gauges.
if I would do the same job again, I would go for a top mount intercooler with fan.
much less work, much less piping / lag on turbo to carry the boost through all the pipes.
much less work, much less piping / lag on turbo to carry the boost through all the pipes.
That's been debunked numerous times.
THEORY VS REALITY- LONG BOOST PIPES DON'T INCREASE LAG!
This is the never ending myth that comes up almost every time someone asks about fitting big intercoolers on forums and so on. You can be assured a knowitall, who no doubt has zero experience of it...
www.stavtech.co.uk
Agreed.That's been debunked numerous times.
THEORY VS REALITY- LONG BOOST PIPES DON'T INCREASE LAG!
This is the never ending myth that comes up almost every time someone asks about fitting big intercoolers on forums and so on. You can be assured a knowitall, who no doubt has zero experience of it...www.stavtech.co.uk
I removed a top Mount set up to install my front mount, went with longer pipes and a way bigger cooler, no noticeable difference in anything other than EGT’s.
I am more familiar with a twin screw blower, but the concept is the same.
The blowers volume is 2.9 liters. That means 2900cc of air per revolution. So if your new tubing and ic take up a whole 3 liters it'll take one turn of the engine to fill it.
One turn of the blower pulley - usually smaller diameter than the crank pulley driving it, so less than one turn of the engine.
(Assuming 100% efficiency of the impeller mechanism blah blah blah)
I admit I am guilty of over-thinking the pipe volume = lag silliness. It's not like I'm building a top-spec drift car.
Correct. My truck runs a 2.53:1 pulley ratio.One turn of the blower pulley - usually smaller diameter than the crank pulley driving it, so less than one turn of the engine.
(Assuming 100% efficiency of the impeller mechanism blah blah blah)
I admit I am guilty of over-thinking the pipe volume = lag silliness. It's not like I'm building a top-spec drift car.
