"the gold one" update thread matts old rig (1 Viewer)

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I'll be massaging the pinch weld a bit...haha...pics to come
 
Grayrock was good...did some shake downs and...
4.88s, new clutch and longs are up next.

Roasted the clutch, dented the front differential, and bent the front passenger control arm...

All in all...it's nearly impossible to steer with 37s and the front locker engaged...so I may get an elocked front or an ARB setup down the road...I couldn't fight the wheel over to keep it from smacking the rock that dealt the bent control arm and the dented differential.

Luckily I had spare arms at home and a buddy willing to let me drive his truck back to pville to get the arms.

Gonna throw an Aussie in the back of the red cruiser and wheel it next gray rock in October while I'm piecing this rig together.

-nick-

Picks shortly of damage and possibly some action shots
 
bhmmapping said:
saginaw pump and hydro assist. That's what I was going to do anyway. I was going to start with the saginaw and add the hydro if that didn't do it.

Interested...got any research you could send my way...I'll start searching tonight
 
proof that it is possible:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/511438-saginaw-3fe-done.html

the 3fe uses an external ps pump so it should be pretty simple to fab something up with a pull-a-part steering pump. There are several writeups in the 60 series forum, IIRC if you use a volvo pump you can use all your stock hose fittings.

off the shelf hydro option:

http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/hydrosteering.html

it can be put together cheaper too if you use one of the surplus center?? rams - not sure on that exactly. There is a writeup on the marlin crawler site I think.

You may also want to look at TC gears instead of the diff gears too to keep it streetable. With the manual you have some more options. Toybox like Paul did, NP203 doubler or the 4:1 split case gears, or you could just do an h55 and get the low low first gear.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/468864-split-case-4-1-gear-sets.html

http://mudrak.org/products/60doubler.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/225366-my-h55f-toybox-install-thread.html
 
bhmmapping said:
proof that it is possible:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/511438-saginaw-3fe-done.html

the 3fe uses an external ps pump so it should be pretty simple to fab something up with a pull-a-part steering pump. There are several writeups in the 60 series forum, IIRC if you use a volvo pump you can use all your stock hose fittings.

off the shelf hydro option:

http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/hydrosteering.html

it can be put together cheaper too if you use one of the surplus center?? rams - not sure on that exactly. There is a writeup on the marlin crawler site I think.

You may also want to look at TC gears instead of the diff gears too to keep it streetable. With the manual you have some more options. Toybox like Paul did, NP203 doubler or the 4:1 split case gears, or you could just do an h55 and get the low low first gear.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/468864-split-case-4-1-gear-sets.html

http://mudrak.org/products/60doubler.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/225366-my-h55f-toybox-install-thread.html

Welp...I'll be researching haha

Suggested clutch options out there? I want something I can slip without glazing it over...if we were talking about 4cyl drag cars I'd be fine but have no experience with this.
 
Welp...I'll be researching haha

Suggested clutch options out there? I want something I can slip without glazing it over...if we were talking about 4cyl drag cars I'd be fine but have no experience with this.

I have no idea, 60 series tech would be your friend there. If you get the gearing low enough you shouldn't need to use the clutch as much. Also, I was going to put a hand throttle on the shifter. I was debating between a bike brake handle or a gear lever. There is a writeup with a brake handle in the latest issue of Toyota Trails.
 
bhmmapping said:
I have no idea, 60 series tech would be your friend there. If you get the gearing low enough you shouldn't need to use the clutch as much. Also, I was going to put a hand throttle on the shifter. I was debating between a bike brake handle or a gear lever. There is a writeup with a brake handle in the latest issue of Toyota Trails.

I've seen a gear selector from a 10spd in an old 4runner with a mini front on it...I'm considering this and I'm pricing winches also
 
BamaPaul said:
I have a bike brake handle that I an planning to use on mine

Sent from my Droid thingy using IH8MUD

Plan to mount it on the shifter?
 
I feel like stirring the pot.

dont 37s grenade front lockers?
 
I feel like stirring the pot.

dont 37s grenade front lockers?

35+ break e-lockers.
lockers break birfs and R&P's up front.
 
35+ break e-lockers.
lockers break birfs and R&P's up front.

what is the R&P upgrade?

are longs pretty good insurance against BBS or can you still snap those if you arent careful?

I am scared of being stuck somewhere with a broken front axle, i dont know if I should worry about that or if I just spend too much time on mud.
 
what is the R&P upgrade?

are longs pretty good insurance against BBS or can you still snap those if you arent careful?

I am scared of being stuck somewhere with a broken front axle, i dont know if I should worry about that or if I just spend too much time on mud.

longs will last longer than anything else in the axle. The R&P has no upgrade... stay stock and they'll last longer. OEM > aftermarket.
The onliest upgrade is a Shunt front axle with the 9.5 dif and 80 series knuckles.
 
contemplating 4.88s or toybox with new cross member and Drive shafts...

Gotta just think about cost...
 
bhmmapping said:
I still have the stock crossmember if you go toybox

Sounds good. Gonna throw an Aussie in the 96 for now and wheel that while I save up for what I'm planning
 

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