The Classic FJ60 "Stumbling/Hesitating Acceleration/Running Problem (1 Viewer)

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i have a 84 that also stumbles. I am running on a weber 38dges carb. I plan on replacing the small filter with a 10" hopefully today. I think my 60 is starving for air. My truck is also desmogged.
 
Well, too far from me, but you've got several shops around you that could fix the problem, once and for ever - You've got George @ valley hybrids (Orangefj45 on this board), in stockton. A bit of a drive, but well worth it, since you've been living with this problem so long -- PM him.

Valley Hybrids
2953 Cherryland Ave Unit C
Stockton, CA 95215
Phone: 650.576.2023

And Gary (Mudrak), in Sonoma

Mudrak Custom Cruisers
'Gary'
Phone: 707-996-5272
E-mail: gary@mudrak.com
website at: MCC - Mudrak Custom Cruiser

There are others, but those two are on these boards very often...

You can check here for others. https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/349535-cruiser-mechanics-listed-state.html
 
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I agree with others- just because you've lived with this problem for 25 years doesn't mean it has to continue. Mine doesn't stumble anymore (after working on the EGR valve) and I've messed with everything that might cause it to do so!
 
OK, I'm on the road for work, reading this thread about the frustrating (for me and my mechanic) stutter/miss/stumble.
Going to try the tach disconnect Friday on my 85 FJ60.....will
report....Buzz
 
OK, I'm on the road for work, reading this thread about the frustrating (for me and my mechanic) stutter/miss/stumble.
Going to try the tach disconnect Friday on my 85 FJ60.....will
report....Buzz
Just picked up my 85 from a great mechanic. My exhaust manifold gasket was blown creating a leak which is what was causing my classic stumble. He also rerouted all the vacuum lines. Problem is gone. My idle is super high, at 1400 so I'm going to work on bringing that down. It wa high to help compenate for the xhaust leak. I hope this is my cure.
 
i have a 84 that also stumbles. I am running on a weber 38dges carb. I plan on replacing the small filter with a 10" hopefully today. I think my 60 is starving for air. My truck is also desmogged.

Gimpey I know I'm a bit late on responding to this, but the air cleaner won't help you with this. Its a minor performance tweak,nothing that would cause a stumble. First check your jets and make sure they're in the right range. Then unscrew your idle jets and idle mixture screws completely, clean them real good (wire for the jets) and blast that passage in both directions with carb cleaner. Also make sure your simple tuneup stuff is all sorted (Timing/plugs/wires/ no vac leaks/etc)
 
Gimpey I know I'm a bit late on responding to this, but the air cleaner won't help you with this. Its a minor performance tweak,nothing that would cause a stumble. First check your jets and make sure they're in the right range. Then unscrew your idle jets and idle mixture screws completely, clean them real good (wire for the jets) and blast that passage in both directions with carb cleaner. Also make sure your simple tuneup stuff is all sorted (Timing/plugs/wires/ no vac leaks/etc)

so i had a buddy of mine come over one day and we did alot of stuff to my rig. We adjusted the carb a bit and it seems to run amazingly well now. U were right about the air cleaner but i still think i am better off with it. Until the motor is nice and toasty it stalls sometimes but within minutes that is gone as well.
 
so i had a buddy of mine come over one day and we did alot of stuff to my rig. We adjusted the carb a bit and it seems to run amazingly well now. U were right about the air cleaner but i still think i am better off with it. Until the motor is nice and toasty it stalls sometimes but within minutes that is gone as well.

Cool! When I first got my truck the carb was all jacked up too. Thing ran horrible - off idle bogging, no power. At first I was thinking all the Weber haters were right and I considered getting an aisan, but my jets were TOTALLY off and my idle circuit was filthy. Night and day difference when I got that stuff straight, and now I love the carb. Just got 17mpg out of a tank with 3/4 highway driving, and this thing seriously hauls if I step on it!

I wonder if you aren't snapping your carb out of choke mode a bit soon? Everytime I start mine I first push the gas pedal all the way down to set the choke, then crank it. I then drive it at least 5 minutes before I snap it out of choke mode. (Quick hard press on the gas pedal) Starts great and doesn't die. Not sure if this is "proper" but it works for me.
 
i dunno. It very well may be the case. I will try that.
 
Thread revival:
Seems to be a useful one for 60 owners including myself.

Had the typical hesitation/stumble, and I know I have an exhaust leak, but wanted to check the EGR system as well.
Pulled the filter material out of the EGM modulator (EGRVM); it was totally full of dirt and dust. removed about half out the material and dusted out the rest. It looks like a few clean cotton balls would work fine.
Truck runs better now, more power, less hesitation, less dieseling on takeoff. I will probably find little improvements with every little problem (just did vac lines and BVSV also...), hoping I don't have a crack in the exhaust also.
 
Hey just solved a long time bucking issue when cold and loss of power -- all i did was the golf tee trick with the egr modulator -- no more bucking when it was cold and a lot more power i didnt know i had been missing --- will see if i have the dieseling thing happen after i run it tomorrow == what should i do know to fix the real problem -
 
I just disabled the EGR by clamping it off temporarily with a hemostatic forcep and did a test drive.....Absolutely amazed in the difference it made. No more bucking, truck actually revved up past 3000 RPM in 2nd & 3rd gears! Will perform a more permanent fix later. Guys, try what is being suggested here, you might wish you had!!
I love this forum!
-Greg
 
Sorry to revive such an old thread, but boy am i glad i found this. I've been having this problem off and on for the last few months. doesn't really matter how hot or cold the engine is, or how long i've been driving, or what rpm i'm doing, pretty much seems to happen pretty randomly., never at idle though. whilst driving the motor starts to stumble, like it's running out of fuel, accelerator does nothing, revs sort of come and go, and eventually they die completely, usually i can get it started again, get maybe 50 metres and it starts again. anyway so over the last few months i've been to three different mechanics, first one replaced the points and plugs. fixed it for a month. second one replaced the points and condenser, fixed it for a few weeks. i replaced the leads when i found one of the leads sparking out to the dipstick. fixed it for a week, then i replaced the rotor, dizzy cap and coil. fixed it for a week. finally got fed up again and took it to a new mechanic, he pretty much just told me he can't get the car to produce the fault and doesn't know whats causing it, and didn't offer any suggestion as to what to do next. i figured i'd just wait till it started playing up really bad, then take it back. but since i've found this thread, i think i'll just go through and replace all the vaccume hoses and everything else that was suggested.

thanks guys!
 
Hooray for thread revivals !!

read through this late last night,and attacked "Bertha" this morning. first plugged off the EGR with golf tees,not sure of the Toyota part# on these,but the tech at Toyota dealership thought they would probably run around 20.00 apiece(humor)
replaced the HAC & Modulator filters with 2 layers of my daughters face cleaning pads !!(read cheap) they work perfect,are already a circle,and just cut to size.
capped off the rear hose coming from dizzy diaphragm.hope i am describing this correctly? anyway took her out for a spin,and the acceleration was smooth as glass. no hesistation whatsoever. revved through the gears at various RPM's,perfect !
it was like pure magic. i'm still working out little stuff a bit at a time,as this is my DD. thanks from rookie :cheers:
 
I am reposting a question from the old Sor.archive in the hopes that there is some new insights out there. I have the same problem and am stumped beyond the simple fixes. I hope the experts can help:

From DogBoy #1007:

Sorry for the long topic title but it seems that there is a very common problem with a great deal of FJ60's out there, (mine included) and after reading this forum for several months now, I have yet to find a definitive answer to our (all the 60's owners) dilema.

Here's the problem using descriptors from several earlier posts:
•engine "stumbles/hesitates/sputters/stutters/runs rough/chokes out/feels fuel starved/or almost dies" under acceleration, especially in the lower RPM range of the power band.
•in several cases, the engine will idle normally without problem until a load is put on the motor (starting off in 1rst and then into 2nd gear, pulling a load, or climbing a hill...).
• also, many of the posts describe this as being a consistantly intermitant problem...
• sometimes it runs great for a few minutes (10-20) and then starts acting up
• and sometimes it will start/run/drive normally for several miles during a trip and then inexplicably run rough, and then just as mysteriously clear up for the duration of the trip.

Many probable causes have been suggested in reply: • faulty carburation
• poor fuel delivery system
• leaky or plugged fuel filler and fuel breather tubes
• clogged fuel filters
• blocked air filter/air intake
• faulty ignition coil/limited spark
• vacume lines leaks
• faulty EGR valve or other emission equipment failure
• and/or potential exhaust system issue (bad cat converter, O2 sensor, exhaust manifold leak).

Most of the solutions focus on a faulty EGR, with fixes including bypassing the EGR.

What are your ideas? Thanks.

The cause I found is the relationship mainly between: EGR opening, ignition vac advance.

Assuming all vac lines a correctly routed and connected without leaks, the main culprit I found is a internal leak between the primary and secondary membrane of the vac advance on the dissy. This leak causes an "oscillation" resulting not only in the advance going back and forth but more so the EGR opening to early and to much.

Confirm test:
1) Disconnect and plug vac line to EGR valve.
Problem gone? Y ot N?
If "No" go disconnect and plug the 2 vac lines to the dissy adv.
if "Yes" EGR opens to early.
2) Reconnect vac line to EGR valve
Disconnect and plug the 2 vac lines to the dissy adv.
Problem gone? Y ot N?
If "Yes" do simple test, can you "advance" e.g. increase rpm at idle by sucking on either vac port on dissy adv while having the other port open?
If "No" you have most likely a in between membrane leak!
Still a problem, PM me there is a few more steps to "cure" the issue.
Again, main culprit for the symptoms is the EGR opening to early and to much.
The EGR you really don't need as all it does is lower combustion temp by reintroducing exhaust into the intake, thus lowering and reducing NOX due to lower combustion temperature. Consequently causing poorer fuel efficiency and less power!
Without an functioning EGR you would get much better mileage and acceleration!
 
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so i had a buddy of mine come over one day and we did alot of stuff to my rig. We adjusted the carb a bit and it seems to run amazingly well now. U were right about the air cleaner but i still think i am better off with it. Until the motor is nice and toasty it stalls sometimes but within minutes that is gone as well.

An afterthought: Does your accelerator pump work, injecting a squirt of gas upon throttle opening?
 
OMG I'm not alone! since i'm not very mechanically inclined, i'll be sure to let the shop know what to look for. pretty sure it's an exhaust leak. smells like it, anyway.
 

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