The Boss
- Thread starter cruiserpilot
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I looked seriously at those. Wouldn’t fit with my disc conversion.
I’m running AiRide bags and am very happy with them. Ride and handeling is more better now with bags. Even improved flex
I’m running AiRide bags and am very happy with them. Ride and handeling is more better now with bags. Even improved flex
- Thread starter
- #3
Well, issues with OME shocks. Basically the shocks hit full extension before the springs hit full droop. Weird as I have had more than a couple of sets of OME shocks and springs. The old shocks were just soft, not damaged. But I don’t hard core twist this thing up. Anyhow I emailed ARB tech. I’ll post some pics here. I know it’s minor, but if one side compresses the othe side will want to extend and I’d like to think it’s not my shocks that are the extension stops. That being said the old set aren’t damaged and they certainly saw some full motion work.
I put the Sumo Springs up front and deleted the front sway bar. See how this works out.
I put the Sumo Springs up front and deleted the front sway bar. See how this works out.
stevebradford
In the shop
Good on you for checking. Can they compress fully without bottoming out as well. I have always said shocks hitting their limit is why this happens.
Common failure on the 60’s
Common failure on the 60’s
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stevebradford
In the shop
Thats why I said have you checked your compression? 
Never seen that before, nice! you must have been really using them. Bump stops set up?
Never seen that before, nice! you must have been really using them. Bump stops set up?
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This!
stevebradford
In the shop
I need bump stops bad on mine... don’t want to ruin my new springs. The rubber delaminated from the metal plate... they arnt even very rusty!
I think the leafs breaking is similar to the mountain bike frames and cranks I use to snap.. pushed past there limitations. Johnathon told once of hauling a car trailer and later the back end of the truck never came back to original ride height..
stevebradford
In the shop
I might have two used ome overload springs I tugged out of a spring pack. If I remember it only had one overload spring per pack not like yours with two. I don’t plan on using them.
I ripped them out because I don’t like the idea of overload springs on the bottom. And I’m not saying this method won’t work, it does for a while..
In my mind flexing the spring pack to the point the overloads are used causes focused stress on three points. Where yours broke and at each end of the overload. You want a spring to flex equally along its whole length. Maybe that’s not worded right you want a spring to flex progressively along its length.
So I just run ome regular packs and hit my bumpstops for time to time. It’s probably very similar to hitting those over load springs just less traumatic on the springs. Although that is probably why I need new stops..
In my mind this is how an ideal over load spring should be set up, overload spring on top.
Just my highly uneducated opinion. Sorry for my ramblings.
Gone to @seapotato
I ripped them out because I don’t like the idea of overload springs on the bottom. And I’m not saying this method won’t work, it does for a while..
In my mind flexing the spring pack to the point the overloads are used causes focused stress on three points. Where yours broke and at each end of the overload. You want a spring to flex equally along its whole length. Maybe that’s not worded right you want a spring to flex progressively along its length.
So I just run ome regular packs and hit my bumpstops for time to time. It’s probably very similar to hitting those over load springs just less traumatic on the springs. Although that is probably why I need new stops..
In my mind this is how an ideal over load spring should be set up, overload spring on top.
Just my highly uneducated opinion. Sorry for my ramblings.
Gone to @seapotato
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- Thread starter
- #12
Well, that instance of towing the car hauler trailer was last set of springs. These are newly installed set from Jay.
But on with the story.....
The new OME’s are on, front shocks and newly installed Sumo Springs up front for giggles. Oh, and 4.11’s are up front.
Removed front sway bar, links were too short and the Sumo’s should do that duty.
Rears are done, the airbags are on, brake line adjustments. Huge sigh of relief
No exhaust modifications needed! Yeah! I’ll be doing rear gears as soon as pinion bearing and parts are sorted. So no 4x4 for now.
I installed quick connects for filling the bags just to get it out the door.
But on with the story.....
The new OME’s are on, front shocks and newly installed Sumo Springs up front for giggles. Oh, and 4.11’s are up front.
Removed front sway bar, links were too short and the Sumo’s should do that duty.
Rears are done, the airbags are on, brake line adjustments. Huge sigh of relief
No exhaust modifications needed! Yeah! I’ll be doing rear gears as soon as pinion bearing and parts are sorted. So no 4x4 for now. I installed quick connects for filling the bags just to get it out the door.
- Thread starter
- #13
Oh, must be tired. 
Cool Guys of the Week Award goes to Graham and Keith. Keith for having a front axle kit
for me when I needed it. Graham for deciding it would be cool to FLY! the kit to me from Victoria! So I met
them at the airport, 3 miles from my house and picked the kit up.
Thanks again, to you guys..
Cool Guys of the Week Award goes to Graham and Keith. Keith for having a front axle kitfor me when I needed it. Graham for deciding it would be cool to FLY! the kit to me from Victoria! So I met
them at the airport, 3 miles from my house and picked the kit up.
Thanks again, to you guys..
Exhaust routing looks familiar... Is there space left there for rear shocks?
Once you plumb in your bags permanently, will the line be inside of the frame rail? I envision bad things happening to it there?
Are you going to fill them individually or just have a crossover line between the two sides?
So far I just have the one fill and I haven't noticed any negative side effects. I figure I can always alter the plumbing later. Mine is only for ride and de-squatting when fully loaded. Worst case, it will allow an inch more lean when cornering.
Once you plumb in your bags permanently, will the line be inside of the frame rail? I envision bad things happening to it there?
Are you going to fill them individually or just have a crossover line between the two sides?
So far I just have the one fill and I haven't noticed any negative side effects. I figure I can always alter the plumbing later. Mine is only for ride and de-squatting when fully loaded. Worst case, it will allow an inch more lean when cornering.
- Thread starter
- #15
The exhaust is fine for shocks, I built the exhaust with shock in place. I was thinking clearly that day..
For now it has 18" fill lines, just tucked into frame for convenience. I plan on tying the fill compressor to
ARB locker compressor. I purchased a fill kit from Air Lift. They have a very cool dual fill system, individual
deflate system with a nifty analog dual bag indicator gauge.
Since I removed most of the smog lines into the inner rear wheel area on the RH side, I've noticed a steel plate manifold.
Not sure if others have ever looked there, but the vent/evaporation lines for smog go through that manifold
that also can be removed, as it has two mounting bolts. Now I didn't do that, but I plan to drill through that
manifold plate to a) see how thick it is b) then just use waterproof grommets for pass through c) it's a clear area
that also might be used for other pass through requirements. It's solid, and more important it's serviceable.
So I will have to plan, I might put the compressor in the rear inner fender area. That would keep it dry.
I've had a discussion with Ryan about putting a small air tank up under the frame for air storage for minimal
tool usage. So that will be part of how I go about it.