Wow yours was well machined if it doesn't have any material removed for balancing! The joys of cnc milling! Yes you will still need the whole assembly dynamically balanced, at least to check that it's all in spec. One day I'll install mine.
The 2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Gturbo Alternative Tech Thread
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I already did (as mentioned above) and they said it was balanced...
After over a year of sitting in a box, I finally installed my @ForealBoreal compressor wheel and turbine housing. I did an HPD intercooler at the same time, so its really tough to tell exactly how much change came from the turbo vs. Intercooler, but what I do know is it is like driving a whole new truck, very pleased with the results vs. cost.
I havent messed with the tune yet but right off the bat, turbo is spooling faster and reaching full boost with lower load than before.
One issue I have now is fluctuating boost levels on full throttle ie, if I mash the pedal, I hit 15psi and the needle bounces between 12 and 15 psi now. Havent had time to look into this yet.
Will be driving from BC to utah in a few weeks, so will see how it does on the highway and mountain passes.
I havent messed with the tune yet but right off the bat, turbo is spooling faster and reaching full boost with lower load than before.
One issue I have now is fluctuating boost levels on full throttle ie, if I mash the pedal, I hit 15psi and the needle bounces between 12 and 15 psi now. Havent had time to look into this yet.
Will be driving from BC to utah in a few weeks, so will see how it does on the highway and mountain passes.
The bouncing needle sounds like compressor surge. Does it go away at higher rpm? How big is the compressor wheel inducer?
Next step for you guys is finding a better turbine wheel with aerodynamic blades. That one is a paddle wheel!
Next step for you guys is finding a better turbine wheel with aerodynamic blades. That one is a paddle wheel!
Interesting. I will pay more attentiom to the needle at higher RPM and see. Inducer is 48mm.
Perhaps you can school me on surge and its consequences?
Yes the paddlewheel is the stock CT26 wheel. I dont anticipate that I really need more power then what I am making now.
I did a little more reading about surge, and I don't think it's what I was experiencing. I wasn't getting any "bark" or ch ch ch sound. This is more of a Shh shh shh. Like the wastegate was fluttering. It happened at all RPM ranges, but only WOT when I hit max boost. It seems it was an anomaly in my MBC or wastegate, I increased boost from 14-15psi and now cannot replicate the problem.
Another thing I notice with this setup is that it is much quieter than the 7M compressor that was on there previously, much less whistle. There is also a very distinctive whooshing sound at low boost levels around 5psi instead of the high pitch whistle I have been accustomed to.
This feels like a different motor, the usable power band is significantly larger, turbo spools earlier, less downshifting and it is much more enjoyable to drive. I am sure the intercooler is significant in this change too.
While I am sure that a more modern turbine wheel would improve things even more, at the moment I feel like I am driving a rusty Ferrari. The big test for me will be how it does through the mountains.
Another thing I notice with this setup is that it is much quieter than the 7M compressor that was on there previously, much less whistle. There is also a very distinctive whooshing sound at low boost levels around 5psi instead of the high pitch whistle I have been accustomed to.
This feels like a different motor, the usable power band is significantly larger, turbo spools earlier, less downshifting and it is much more enjoyable to drive. I am sure the intercooler is significant in this change too.
While I am sure that a more modern turbine wheel would improve things even more, at the moment I feel like I am driving a rusty Ferrari. The big test for me will be how it does through the mountains.
Just remember, it might not take to mountain curves and bends like a rusty Ferrari
After installing the same intercooler with a stock turbo, the motor feels roughly the same, minus a few egts. It changes the way I drive for sure, but I'll bet most of the benefits you see are from that turbo. (May be wishful thinking as I'm after the same setup.)
I get to play again. My turbo was installed on the weekend, took it for its first drive this morning. I've only had it on local streets up to 70kph so far. Seems much more responsive, max boost I've seen thus far is 11psi, I'll play with wastegate settings a bit more when I have time.
Only weird thing is that while winding it out wot when it hit 10-11psi it would dip back about 4psi, but there was no change in the feel of the motor or acceleration and power.
After a while though it's happening less, only dipping about 1psi now. Not sure what's causing it, maybe a boost leak that's heat related.
Of course I also broke the thermocouple for my pyro gauge when I was changing the turbo out so no egt readings at the moment.
For those of you who don't feel like reading back, I have a 1hz running a mamba 46/65 11 blade extended tip comp wheel in a supra housing with a foreal turbine housing, mamba wastegate actuator, stock intake with safari snorkel and no intercooler.
Only weird thing is that while winding it out wot when it hit 10-11psi it would dip back about 4psi, but there was no change in the feel of the motor or acceleration and power.
After a while though it's happening less, only dipping about 1psi now. Not sure what's causing it, maybe a boost leak that's heat related.
Of course I also broke the thermocouple for my pyro gauge when I was changing the turbo out so no egt readings at the moment.
For those of you who don't feel like reading back, I have a 1hz running a mamba 46/65 11 blade extended tip comp wheel in a supra housing with a foreal turbine housing, mamba wastegate actuator, stock intake with safari snorkel and no intercooler.
Yeah, this. I still have the stock CT26 with an intercooler and I didn't notice much change in power when going to an intercooler, but I can hold higher speeds for longer since my EGT's are a lot lower. Of course, this changes with how much fuel you add after as well. @tweeek your gains are from the turbo. I'm running out of things to upgrade on my truck, and a turbo upgrade will likely be the next thing. Good to hear of positive results
If anyone is interested in my supra compressor wheel and housing drop me a PM. Housing is already drilled and tapped to fit your stock wastegate. Comp wheel is like new.
Update time, got a chance to take it for a good run down the motorway today, no decent hills around here to test it out on unfortunately. I haven't touched the fuel screw since I installed the new turbo and won't for a while as I broke the sender for the egt.
The old turbo would sit on 10psi at 100kph all the time with no headroom for acceleration, not the best I thought.
The new turbo sits at around 7psi at 100kph on flat ground, dips to about 5 down hills and I saw a peak of 14 going uphill. Low down it isn't much change but the 1st and 2nd gears of my h150f a far too low for city driving. 3rd 4th and 5th is the biggest difference with much better response and acceleration. It also held speed on hills much easier.
I also noticed at the end of my drive after popping the bonnet for a look that the intake was much cooler than before, with the old turbo it was hot enough to burn your hand after a good run now it is just warm.
So far I'm liking this turbo, the noise from my snorkel is entertaining too!
The old turbo would sit on 10psi at 100kph all the time with no headroom for acceleration, not the best I thought.
The new turbo sits at around 7psi at 100kph on flat ground, dips to about 5 down hills and I saw a peak of 14 going uphill. Low down it isn't much change but the 1st and 2nd gears of my h150f a far too low for city driving. 3rd 4th and 5th is the biggest difference with much better response and acceleration. It also held speed on hills much easier.
I also noticed at the end of my drive after popping the bonnet for a look that the intake was much cooler than before, with the old turbo it was hot enough to burn your hand after a good run now it is just warm.
So far I'm liking this turbo, the noise from my snorkel is entertaining too!
Ok so I went for a reasonable length drive yesterday and it handled the hills well. Except at some point it decided it would start boosting harder, going beyond the previous setting of 14psi. It wants to do 10psi at 100kph now and I've seen max boost levels of 19psi. Without an intercooler this is making my intake air temps too hot and the temp gauge is starting to climb. Any assistance would be appreciated as i have days of driving ahead and I need her to keep going.
Have you changed fuel settings yet?
Boost is largely dependent on the amount of fuel burnt or AFRs.
Burn more fuel, make more boost.
You can limit boost two ways.
Reduce fuel settings, you'll reduce drive energy and also reduce power output.
Waste gate the turbo, excess energy bypasses the turbo.
If you've seen an increase in boost levels, but haven't touched fuel I'd check waste gate first.
Has something happened to prevent it getting a true boost signal?
If wastegate seems okay, check your fuel system. Do you have a boost compensator on the IP?
Also, I guess you still have no EGT probe sorted? If engine temps are rising, I'd suspect AFRs as being the problem, not an increase in intake air temps.
Your new turbo should be a lot more efficient than the old one. Yes, at 19 psi intake temps will be higher than at 14psi, but unless there's another problem or you're pushing it really hard up long hill climbs I don't think the intake air temp will be causing engine temps to rise much at all.
Up to a point, more boost should reduce EGT because it changes the AFR, if you push the turbo way outside it's efficiency range, you'll be adding to much heat. But I doubt 19psi will be the problem alone.
Boost is largely dependent on the amount of fuel burnt or AFRs.
Burn more fuel, make more boost.
You can limit boost two ways.
Reduce fuel settings, you'll reduce drive energy and also reduce power output.
Waste gate the turbo, excess energy bypasses the turbo.
If you've seen an increase in boost levels, but haven't touched fuel I'd check waste gate first.
Has something happened to prevent it getting a true boost signal?
If wastegate seems okay, check your fuel system. Do you have a boost compensator on the IP?
Also, I guess you still have no EGT probe sorted? If engine temps are rising, I'd suspect AFRs as being the problem, not an increase in intake air temps.
Your new turbo should be a lot more efficient than the old one. Yes, at 19 psi intake temps will be higher than at 14psi, but unless there's another problem or you're pushing it really hard up long hill climbs I don't think the intake air temp will be causing engine temps to rise much at all.
Up to a point, more boost should reduce EGT because it changes the AFR, if you push the turbo way outside it's efficiency range, you'll be adding to much heat. But I doubt 19psi will be the problem alone.
Last edited:
Yeah I'm leaning towards the wastegate actuator being sticky, It's been playing up again today, this time low boost. It wouldn't spool past 10psi and would barely make it that high, even while climbing hills. Still had power and never pushed the temp gauge up, so that's positive. I'm guessing the extra flow of the 11 blade wheel would help in this situation?
Going to pop the cover off and lubricate the actuator piston with some o-ring grease and see if that helps.
Going to pop the cover off and lubricate the actuator piston with some o-ring grease and see if that helps.
Was wondering the same as Dougal, thinking extra boost may have freed up the spring or pin? but I think Serenity has 1HZ, so may not have AFC?
Edited
Edited
Yep, 1hz powered 80 series.
Hi.
I would have an opportunity to buy one of those Mamba CT26 upgrade turbos. It is used (only 1k km) and already shipped/taxed to Finland.
Asking price is about 300USD.
This is the exact same unit: MAMBA Bolt-On GTX TOYOTA 12HT 12H-T HJ61 Land Cruiser CT26 GT3071R Turbocharger | eBay
How well would this one work with the mighty 12H-T? Or should i stick to 7M CT26?
I would have an opportunity to buy one of those Mamba CT26 upgrade turbos. It is used (only 1k km) and already shipped/taxed to Finland.
Asking price is about 300USD.
This is the exact same unit: MAMBA Bolt-On GTX TOYOTA 12HT 12H-T HJ61 Land Cruiser CT26 GT3071R Turbocharger | eBay
How well would this one work with the mighty 12H-T? Or should i stick to 7M CT26?