TG GM alt bracket broke

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Joined
May 9, 2007
Threads
14
Messages
252
Location
Watertown, NY
So go to swap out another CS130. They keep blowing voltage regulators so please chime in if you have any ideas why, I'm thinking cheap chinese parts. I double checked my wiring splices into GM harness.

Look what I found....
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Called to see how long it'll take to get a new one. But don't want to wait a week. Gas was empty on welder so will weld it up tomorrow. I'll post pics up if weather is permitting, my welds will give ya a good chuckle:)
 
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Yep, need more practice with welding. Ground back flush for mounting surface.
 
Looks OK to me, I've done worse.

Looks like the weld on the little tab in the hole broke, which let the base fatigue and break all the way across. I have one of those mounts, painted and ready to install. I'll look at it closer before I install, maybe add some more weld.
 
Looking at the TG site, looks like they changed the design some. In retrospect proactively re-enforcing would be choice. I hadn't seen any other post of one of these brackets breaking. I put it on in 2010 but it only has about 2yrs of actual drive time on it.
 
I've got a few months on my TG bracket and a CS130 alternator. How did you wire yours up? What gauge wire did you use for the supply line? Did you bypass the stock 80AMP circuit?
 
I wired it 3 wire. 1 wire is easier to install but poorer performance. I ran over kill on power line and main grounds O welding cable. Yeah I bypassed the 80amp stock box to battery then ran stock wire to battery. But run my heavy amp draw items fused off battery.
 
Ya. Mine is wired just the same. But only had it for about 5 months so far. 4gauge welding wire from the alternator to a fuse, then to battery.

Could just be the junk regulator or something
 
I'm kinda leaning towards crappy alternators. Orielly's $77 dollar lifetime replacement unit. I rechecked wiring harness, verified continuity, and match alt wiring diagram to FSM alt wiring. All looked good. Well my soldering then and now is well ugly but connections are solid.

I do have two stereo amps (200 and 400amp) and a 30 amp e-fan. But lights don't dimmer with bass or fan coming on.

I think I need to just pony up and get a higher amp alternator. Like powermaster.
 
I had issues with alternators from there as well. They would stop charging. I'm actually to the point it takes 30 minutes tops to remove one from my truck..
 
Tell me about it. I've got the "Tetris " pattern to remove and replace by heart around e-fan and lower rad hose and frame.
 
All I had to do was undo my transmission line in my old truck. After the last time I removed it I told my self if it goes out again I'm going straight to Toyota to buy a new one
 
Could someone give me the measurements between the bracket arms? IE the part that holds the base of the alternator. I want to have pretty close dimensions before I order one from TG or try to get one made.
 
The lower pivot of a cs130 is 2" and the ears of the bracket outsides of that mount.
 
Here's a trick that works: remove the belt and bolts, loosen all the engine mount bolts, remove all but one, rotate the alternator and bracket down, then wiggle it out around the lower hose.
 
That pretty much what I did to remove the broken bracket. But just loosed the rear bolts on motor mounts.
 
Made my own CS130 bracket way back about 2005 or so. Early mock-ups below. One of the missing features of that TG part is a sliding sleeve for the pivot bolt. Instead they bend the bracket when tightening the pivot bolt. That's never a long term good plan.

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The first alt installed finally failed earlier this year. Tetris is right! My local starter/generator/alternator shop had a look at it. He sold me a new one, said that their was nothing to salvage. Reg was toast, diodes were toast, stator was toast, & the rotor was toast. At 30k-50k miles of DD, chasing desert racers, dirt road transects of Nevada, and desert exploring it doesn't owe me anything....
 
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