Tech thread: 4x HELLA 700 HID conversion and utilizing oem wiring

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FullyLitLED

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So I finally got around to doing the HID conversion to my hella fog lights. I decided that I do not want those funky switches that clutter the interior. I have a plan for the four fog lights to be powered by the two original wires that connect to the oem fog lights. Not sure about ARB, but I know that this upgrade would be good for those who run the slee and BIOR bumper because they scrap the oem fog lights and you can use the oem wiring to power new fog lights. I did not ground the wire that allows the fogs to be run along with the hi beams but I will address that issue later. I finished two fog lights today and I ordered another harness so I can add the other two next week when I do my projector retrofit:D


Parts:
1. 4x Hella 700 ff
2. 35w 6000k HID kit
3. The retrofit source wiring harness...this type of harness will be convenient...more details soon

So on to the tech portion of this thread

Starting with a CLEAN work station. I am using HELLA 700ff's so taking apart the light may be different based on your headlight...


Take apart the housing by unscrewing the screw that is located at the bottom of the housing
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Pry the housing in between the plastic and glass
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Take out the H3 bulb and unplug all the wiring and mounting positions, including the locking mechanism
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HID vs halogen
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Check if your HID bulb is too long for the fog light
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Now place the H3 HID bulb and bend the tabs together so that it can be held in place. Make sure it is flush and seated straight.
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Seal the bulbs surrounding using clear silicone. People are against this but it is easy to peel silicone if the bulb burns out
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Using the gasket that came with the H3 HID kit, push it down into the silicone. The silicone will spread but level it on top of the gasket. The gasket pushes the silicone into the seams if the gasket is seated flush. This will not be seen anyways. Make sure gasket is submerged into the silicone after it is pushed down
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Now on to the rear portion of the housing/outer casing. Drill a hole that is big enough to let the wiring through the back, since the HID bulb's wiring is longer than the halogen. The hole also needs to be big enough to accommodate the rubber boot that came with the HID bulbs.
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Now the real fun begins. I had an HID kit installed with a relay so I will do a how to when I add the second relay. Remember that I will use the two oem wiring outputs to power the four hella lights. The harness that I am using is the key..more on that later


Plug in the HID kit's ballasts to the original fog light wiring, and plug in the HID bulbs into the ballasts. Now turn on your headlights and oem fog light switch.

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Only did two today but...

Coming soon: four foglights using OEM fog light wiring. How to wire the relay

This is perfect if you had to leave out your fog light wiring because your new armor could not accomodate the oem fog lights and its wiring. Easy and must do upgrade IMO!

Night time pics to be added
 
Looks very bright. You might want to tell people what lens type you are running (fog, spot, euro, etc). Did you check up on whether the 700FF reflective housing can handle the additional heat generated by the H3? Also, lets see a pic of the back of the plastic housing where the HID outer exposed gasket fits. And, do you have any venting for when water condensates in housing? Finally, since you routed the wiring straight out the back of the housing, what does clearance look like between the back of the light and the grill?
 
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Looks very bright. You might want to tell people what lens type you are running (fog, spot, euro, etc). Did you check up on whether the 700FF reflective housing can handle the additional heat generated by the H3? Also, lets see a pic of the back of the plastic housing where the HID outer exposed gasket fits. And, do you have any venting for when water condensates in housing? Finally, since you routed the wiring straight out the back of the housing, what does clearance look like between the back of the light and the grill?

Finally someone shows interest in my thread! lol

I am using the driving beam pattern lens

Did you check up on whether the 700FF reflective housing can handle the additional heat generated by the H3?

No I did not haha but according to other users of the 700ff and 500ff there have been flawless HID conversions with no issues whatsoever, time will tell:)

Also, lets see a pic of the back of the plastic housing where the HID outer exposed gasket fits.

here are some pics! The gasket sits into the opening and pushes the silicone into the open spaces that you may have missed but others just go with silicone
IMG_2048.jpg


And, do you have any venting for when water condensates in housing?
Small opening but! The HELLA lamps are basically two piece! When it is unassembled, that entire half is an enclosed housing...the other half is just acting as a stand and cover. The opening that I left was on the cover...sealed up the lamps completely..not sure if that made sense? lol

Finally, since you routed the wiring straight out the back of the housing, what does clearance look like between the back of the light and the grill?


It was less clearance for me because I drilled new holes in my TJM so the lights are as far away from the front of the bumper as possible...you should not have this problem because most bumpers have adequate spacing for lights
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Lastly, drilling the rear of the housing provides just enough room for the HID bulb to fit...the wiring is the only thing exposed out of the cover and the main bulb is not

Hope this helps! :D
 
What I was saying about the venting is that you need venting. Look at the back of your OEM fogs. See that rubber elbow thingy pointed downwards?...Venting. I guess with the 700s being enclosed after you get the plastic off the back is correct. But I still think they have a small vent on the glass part.
 
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What I was saying about the venting is that you need venting. Look at the back of your OEM fogs. See that rubber elbow thingy pointed downwards?...Venting.

ohhh got it! I thought that having an opening will cause condensation? If it is sealed completely and no fog or moisture builds up inside, then am I good? I am not an expert on these things:mad:
 
So a question about safety....

as you can see, one harness controls two lights...but the harness only requires plugging in one of the oem headlight/foglight connectors...does that mean if I run two sets of harnesses, I can control all 4 fog lamps that I plan on putting with the oem switch? Since the harness has a fuse, I'm guessing that it should be?

sorry if I did not make sense, here is a pic of one harness, I plan to run 2 of them
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Just get these, no harness/relay needed, plugs right into the OEM sockets for the fogs.

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Ohhh but then I can only wire 2 hellas and the fact that I am using an HID kit allows me to jus plug the ballast into the oem wiring spot

I think I did not make sense hah
 
Thanks man, I will ground it tomorrow:D

And yes, you can use L & R side connectors to individually power two sets of fogs on the TRS harnesses. The relay only draws signal amperage off the tap to the factory harness.

Or you could use just the one side. Easiest to do what you propose though and you'll get better efficiency using this method. That means more power to your lights.
 
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And yes, you can use L & R side connectors to individually power two sets of fogs on the TRS harnesses. The relay only draws signal amperage off the tap to the factory harness.

Or you could use just the one side. The relay only draws a signal amperage off the tap to the factory harness. Easiest to do what you propose though. Easiest to do what you propose though and you'll get better efficiency using this method. That means more power to your lights.

Awesome! Just needed some reassurance:D
 
LJ, which Harness is that , i have been to the sight, but im not sure what I am looking for.

thanks

drp96a
 
Thanks!!
 

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