well seee tomarrooo!
Tech Questions Here (22 Viewers)
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try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a minute or so reconnect & drive it .
this resets the ECM memory my be justa bit of info it didn`t like.
if limp mode returns then will have to scam for what the ECM says is the problem & go from there
most prob will be bad O2 MAF or VSS all should still be under warranty
foward o2 sensor , and had to argue , that the snorkel dindt make that happen , dude had 2 be a penis about it said that he cant put it under warranty cuz i modefyed the engine , hahaha i told him prove to me that puttin a snorkel - cutting a hole in ur body and connecting a peice of rubber to ur air box makes the 02 sensor go bad and ill pay for it , he shut up and said come pick it up when ur ready lol got ther it alllll of a sudden was under warrenty , thats sad that they wanna try 2 grab every penny they can from pepol hat to see what they do to pepeol who dodnt open ther mouth , are know better , verry disapointed with musson service writter , after my famely has bought over 12 toyotas from ther 4 just from me ,
Good for you Jon for speaking out! Most people would have not said anything especially if they didn't know better. You did good!!
Glad they got your truck fixed. Not all of the people from Musson are like that. The guy was probably just jealous that he drove a Camry.
Musson does sponsor the BSLCA you know.
glad ya goter done!
hope they arn`t pullin what Harvey did years ago.
would bill customer then turn around and bill Toyota as warranty
that is why it ain`t harvey no mo
am sure this was just an in- experenced service writer and not company policy as it certinally is not Toyota policy.
yeaa i never seen this jack ther b/f but he looked like the type to drive a carolla haha, i mean im no dumby , dont know what he thought i guess they see i had the lights and bumper and stuff auto matic no go im gona go back tomarro talk to my cuz that works ther see what he says about that dude and see if he can pull teeth
u would think that sence i have a big bsla on my truck all over they would be fair sence im gona be ther on my free time helping them with toys for tots ? all good tho im happy it runs lol
- Thread starter
- #1,230
Sorry to hear Jon ask for Brent next time I've known him for long time and if he gives you problems let me know and I'll make a call to him. I had Rebecca take the Sequoia there to have some keys made and new batteries put in the remotes and they were very helpful to her. My experiences at Musson have always been good especially with the parts folks Harold is great always faxing me diagrams so I can order the right parts and is patient if I'm a few days late getting over there to get them. Don't let this guy get under your skin they have some good people there but glad he made it right and they got you taken care of.
Glad to hear you got her fixed fast.
Mike here ia some TTORA info on the AC Clutch:
TTORA Forum - Search Results
Novice trying A/C compressor job - TTORA Forum
http://ncttora.com/fsm/2000/Repair Manual/Air Conditioning/Compressor/comp.pdf
i pulled the belt off and turned the pully by hand. i found that the pully was a little loose so i figured it was the bearing on the pulley behind the clutch. i replaced that bearing and it's nice and quiet now.
if you have a problem with the compressor itself then you've got alot more work to do to remove the whole thing.
if you want to give just the pulley bearing a try here is some step by step
-take the a/c belt off (you will need to pull the power steer belt first)
-there is a 10mm bolt holding the outer part of the clutch on. you will need to hold the pulley with a strap wrench or you could use a big set of channel locks like i did and gouge things up. when you remove the outer part of the clutch a washer/spacer/shim will fall out from between. it's pretty small.
-there is a snap ring that holds the pulley on the shaft. it's really tricky to get off because you don't have much space. i used a flashlight, a little mirror and right angled snap ring pliers. it got a little frustrating to get it off.
-after that you will need to pry the pulley off the compressor. i used a big crowbar and hit it with a dead blow hammer until it popped off.
when i got the pulley off it was pretty easy to tell that was where the noise was coming from. i could barely turn the bearing with my fingers.
then you just need to press the old bearing out of the pulley with a vice and a big socket. the bearing itself was about $100 canadian at a local bearing supplier and took a couple of days to get it. my '04 used a nachi bearing part #30BG05S2G-2DS
i also replaced the tension pulley bearing at the same time even though it was ok. this bearing was $25.
toyota does not sell the bearing itself. the whole a/c clutch from toyota was going to be about $700 and most parts stores wanted somewhere around $500 if they could actually get it.
TTORA Forum - Search Results
Novice trying A/C compressor job - TTORA Forum
http://ncttora.com/fsm/2000/Repair Manual/Air Conditioning/Compressor/comp.pdf
i pulled the belt off and turned the pully by hand. i found that the pully was a little loose so i figured it was the bearing on the pulley behind the clutch. i replaced that bearing and it's nice and quiet now.
if you have a problem with the compressor itself then you've got alot more work to do to remove the whole thing.
if you want to give just the pulley bearing a try here is some step by step
-take the a/c belt off (you will need to pull the power steer belt first)
-there is a 10mm bolt holding the outer part of the clutch on. you will need to hold the pulley with a strap wrench or you could use a big set of channel locks like i did and gouge things up. when you remove the outer part of the clutch a washer/spacer/shim will fall out from between. it's pretty small.
-there is a snap ring that holds the pulley on the shaft. it's really tricky to get off because you don't have much space. i used a flashlight, a little mirror and right angled snap ring pliers. it got a little frustrating to get it off.
-after that you will need to pry the pulley off the compressor. i used a big crowbar and hit it with a dead blow hammer until it popped off.
when i got the pulley off it was pretty easy to tell that was where the noise was coming from. i could barely turn the bearing with my fingers.
then you just need to press the old bearing out of the pulley with a vice and a big socket. the bearing itself was about $100 canadian at a local bearing supplier and took a couple of days to get it. my '04 used a nachi bearing part #30BG05S2G-2DS
i also replaced the tension pulley bearing at the same time even though it was ok. this bearing was $25.
toyota does not sell the bearing itself. the whole a/c clutch from toyota was going to be about $700 and most parts stores wanted somewhere around $500 if they could actually get it.
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Thanks John that is some good information. I can`t want to do it
hypothetical situation: Suposed you bought a 2006 dodge with a cummins, then 300 miles later the torque converter blew the fxxx up. You like the truck and cant return it anyway because of the way used car laws work in Louisianna if a vehichle is sold with a warrenty so you are gettign the trans fixed under warenty. Knowing that the torque converters are a weak point on the trucks you pay extra for an upgraded unit.
Then suposed that someone on another forum told you that when you upgrade the torque converter it is "highly highly highly recomended" (thats three highly's people) to upgrade the input shaft of the transmission to 300m Billet. Since you have no money now due to buying an upgraded torque converter and paying a downpayment on the thing, do you charge an 800 dollar shaft, plus the added labor to tear the transmission the rest of the way down to change that shaft out as well? I am more inclined to thinking save your money till you can afford a compleatly built transmission when/if this current one goes out again a year or two down the road rather than nickle and diming (or more acurately Grant and Benjamin-ing) your self to death with upgrades to the stock case?
Please bear in mind this is compleatly hypothetical. (I wish)
Then suposed that someone on another forum told you that when you upgrade the torque converter it is "highly highly highly recomended" (thats three highly's people) to upgrade the input shaft of the transmission to 300m Billet. Since you have no money now due to buying an upgraded torque converter and paying a downpayment on the thing, do you charge an 800 dollar shaft, plus the added labor to tear the transmission the rest of the way down to change that shaft out as well? I am more inclined to thinking save your money till you can afford a compleatly built transmission when/if this current one goes out again a year or two down the road rather than nickle and diming (or more acurately Grant and Benjamin-ing) your self to death with upgrades to the stock case?
Please bear in mind this is compleatly hypothetical. (I wish)
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- Thread starter
- #1,235
Sorry to hear bud.
I know the 93 on to 99 Dodge auto trannys behind the diesels had issues I even saw a brand new one grenade on the lot at Acadiana Dodge while going out for a test drive. If taking the hit to upgrade the shaft plus upgrading the converter meant a longer life on the tranny to get your money out of the two upgrades I would take the hit and go that route while its already down. My father in law went through 2 auto trannys behind his 94 auto with a 318 before it hit 100K I just think they were making crap trannys. How many miles is on it ? While at it I would think to put fresh oil and filter in it as well but I tend to be on the over maintaining side of things just throwing my .2 out there bud.
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If you are looking at upgrading the auto look into these guys, The are holding up to some high torque numbers, like over 1,000 ft pounds of torque.
Sun Coast Converters Diesel Transmissions, Fort Walton Beach FL
Sun Coast Converters Diesel Transmissions, Fort Walton Beach FL
Oooooo Interesting link there Albert!
My struck is out of the shop now with only 700 dollars out of my pocket but I am saving my pennies incase (when) I blow up another one.
Do we have another goat owner among us? Lets see some burn out videos that caused those bad trannies.
Do we have another goat owner among us? Lets see some burn out videos that caused those bad trannies.
Why does everyone here and at cumminsforum assume I was beating on it when that happened?
Besides the camera was not rolling at the time.
Truck is out of the shop and at the house now. I just need to get my self to the house.
Who else owns a Goat? Paul totaled the ramcharger didnt he?
Albert got an Ram 2500 mid summer and I know he has felt the power.