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Shackle length

What is the stock shackle length on the rear of 1st generation trucks and suvs? How about it Dan or Davin, Albert has mine, but he is at work.
Thanks for the help.
 
hey bud went measure mine.

they are not stock shackles but they are somewhere in the area of 3" and a hair.

could be a direct repalcement for stock though damn short, but i know they are not stock b/c of greasable pins and we put some of the same brand on marty's 62.
 
yeah i believe stock are 3" ill do some research and see what i find.

correction marlin says that stock is 3.5".
 
Thanks guys for the quick response.
 
i like the look of the plate holder and lights, i almost tore my plate off at sicily so i had to take it off and run the second day without it which isn't a big deal but i just would rather not do that. i want to go from road to trail without changing anything except locking and airing down.
 
That would be pretty cool to cut the license plate area of the 4runner skin and weld it into the pickup skin of the tailgate. Using the Toyota emblem and license plate light as well. :smokin:
Then just do like a mini truck and put your handle on the inside. Also add an actuator that will hide your plate from those damn red light cameras. LOL:lol:
 
OH i didnt think about re skinning the tailgate. That would be :grinpimp:

Another option would be to get a licens plate bucket like the lowriders and recess that into your tailgate or a plexiglass rear window at about a 30 degeree angle so that your really stylin' ;)

All joking aside I think thats what Albert did with his truck is install a bucket in the tailgate. Unless I lost what little of my mind I have left.
 
Ok I am going home tomorow and hopefully putting my truck back together and hopefully it runs (sans vacume leak) here is my problem.

Since I installed my webber I have been runnign without a functioning PCV valve. I have a blockoff plate for my EGR (removed) than I can drill and tap to put a 1/2"NPT fitting it with a 3/8" barbed fuel fitting in and run it to that... Bad thing is I have looked at every auto parts store I can think of and none of them have NPT taps.

My other thought is that the threaded part of the fitting is actually a pretty snug fit to the hole in my intake under the blockoff plate. I have been thinking this week about getting some liquid steel or some other kind of two part epoxy (as oposed to a one part epoxy) that can handel a little bit of heat and just glueing it in place.

So I ask you: Is this brilliant, or just Booty fab?


P.S. I am serious.
 
BikerTrash said:
Ok I am going home tomorow and hopefully putting my truck back together and hopefully it runs (sans vacume leak) here is my problem.

Since I installed my webber I have been runnign without a functioning PCV valve. I have a blockoff plate for my EGR (removed) than I can drill and tap to put a 1/2"NPT fitting it with a 3/8" barbed fuel fitting in and run it to that... Bad thing is I have looked at every auto parts store I can think of and none of them have NPT taps.

My other thought is that the threaded part of the fitting is actually a pretty snug fit to the hole in my intake under the blockoff plate. I have been thinking this week about getting some liquid steel or some other kind of two part epoxy (as oposed to a one part epoxy) that can handel a little bit of heat and just glueing it in place.

So I ask you: Is this brilliant, or just Booty fab?


P.S. I am serious.
Click to expand...

Not familiar with booty fabbing but I'd go with option 1 this town has a ton of resources its just finding one that has what you need. Maybe S&L or oil field supply will have the taps. Depending on the size I may have it. I can also ask at S&L I go there twice a week regularly.
 
BikerTrash said:
Ok I am going home tomorow and hopefully putting my truck back together and hopefully it runs (sans vacume leak) here is my problem.

Since I installed my webber I have been runnign without a functioning PCV valve. I have a blockoff plate for my EGR (removed) than I can drill and tap to put a 1/2"NPT fitting it with a 3/8" barbed fuel fitting in and run it to that... Bad thing is I have looked at every auto parts store I can think of and none of them have NPT taps.

My other thought is that the threaded part of the fitting is actually a pretty snug fit to the hole in my intake under the blockoff plate. I have been thinking this week about getting some liquid steel or some other kind of two part epoxy (as oposed to a one part epoxy) that can handel a little bit of heat and just glueing it in place.

So I ask you: Is this brilliant, or just Booty fab?


P.S. I am serious.
Click to expand...
pa$$ ya a$$ birng plate what size do you want to go with 3/8" or 1/2" NPT:hmm:
 
1/2 inch NPT. I wazs looking for a 3/8th NPT fitting to a 3/8 fuel barb but was un able to find one.
 
Josh if you need a hand and you are in Lafayette, just give me a call. I start my two weeks off tomorrow.
 
BikerTrash said:
1/2 inch NPT. I wazs looking for a 3/8th NPT fitting to a 3/8 fuel barb but was un able to find one.
Click to expand...
ya want that in a straight or 90'?
 
Josh just use some of those spare tubing fittings on your platform and run stainless tubing.
 
O.K. got the brakes bleed and working on the 85. I am having NO luck bleeding the clutch. Start from the top new clutch cylinder, new slave cylinder. Pulled the bleed screw from the slave cylinder filled the reservoir full and tried to gravity bleed the system. nope no fluid coming after a few hours . Tried to prime and bleed the system by pumping the clutch and holding and cracking the bleed screw at the slave cylinder. No air or fluid seems to come out the slave cylinder.WHAT am I doing wrong?

... Note to self brake fluid burns in cuts on hands.. I like my auto :)
 
Doable said:
O.K. got the brakes bleed and working on the 85. I am having NO luck bleeding the clutch. Start from the top new clutch cylinder, new slave cylinder. Pulled the bleed screw from the slave cylinder filled the reservoir full and tried to gravity bleed the system. nope no fluid coming after a few hours . Tried to prime and bleed the system by pumping the clutch and holding and cracking the bleed screw at the slave cylinder. No air or fluid seems to come out the slave cylinder.WHAT am I doing wrong?

... Note to self brake fluid burns in cuts on hands.. I like my auto :)
Click to expand...

:hmm: In some cases I had to use a pry bar to work the slave cylinder shaft back and forth while bleeding until it built up pressure enough to actually work the clutch fork. Then I use my gatorade bottle with some vaccume tubing to get the rest of the air out.

I've become and auto fan too :D sure don't work as hard.
 
OK dont need to tap the plate any more, removed sensor I am no longer using and then I used a bushing to adapt what I deed in.
 
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