T Fitting on Heater Hose

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Great.. What size do I need for both tees?

Spressomon mentioned two of them from McMaster-Carr but the part number is off on one of them.
 
Not trying to be captain thread coach....but........This is the second time you fire off "hellooooo, anyone reading my posts?.....someone help" posts. I bet some people intentionally ignore...give it a day or two or search harder...its not like if someone tells you right this second they will show up at your door.....
 
The Mack said:
Hello, anyone know what size for these tees?????

Why not just spend $14 and replace them with OEM? It's not like they're gonna blow on you in the next 100k. But, 3/4" should do the trick. Pull the others or look at the hose if its eating at you. Write up is in the FAQ.
 
Hello, anyone know what size for these tees?????

Dude, seriously, are you drinking? I referenced my post in this thread on the size brass I purchased... that have been working fine for two years now. I can't speak to 3/4 but the 5/8 were very snug and don't leak. But if you are anal and neurotic, take one off and measure the diameter.
 
Yea saw the writeup but it states two to three different sizes. Thank you pegasis0066 for clarifying the size again.

Wanted to make sure before ordering, Will order the 5/8 then.
 
Yea saw the writeup but it states two to three different sizes. Thank you pegasis0066 for clarifying the size again.

Wanted to make sure before ordering, Will order the 5/8 then.
I've got the T's to stick on the LX this week...just PM with 140K and no signs of leakage. If the current T's look good and remove in 1 piece, they'll go in the spares box.

The outside diameter of the oem T-fitting is 0.668" for the run section, and 0.550" for the T.

Looks like the run section was sized for 17mm hose and the T for 14mm hose. I'd have no issues using a brass T with 5/8" on the run and 1/2" on the T section if I were to replace the plastic parts.

I would not use the oem hose clamps with metric hoses on the US fitting...You'd be about 1mm smaller on the run part of the fitting, and about 1.5mm smaller on the T. I'd just use s/s worm drive clamps, re-tighten after a few heat-up-cool-down cycles, and not worry about them.

hth

Steve
 
I would not use the oem hose clamps with metric hoses on the US fitting...You'd be about 1mm smaller on the run part of the fitting, and about 1.5mm smaller on the T. I'd just use s/s worm drive clamps, re-tighten after a few heat-up-cool-down cycles, and not worry about them.

OMC,

That's a good idea, I didn't think about the difference in diameter of SAE fittings vs the metric OEM clamps. My original clamps are most likely not reusable anyway due to corrosion, so I will replace with SS worm-drive.
 
Ok, none of these companies accepts Paypall for payments for the hose barb tees part number 32361 from Midland Metal

Is their any one here MUD selling these that will accept PP payment?
 
The Mack said:
Ok, none of these companies accepts Paypall for payments for the hose barb tees part number 32361 from Midland Metal

Is their any one here MUD selling these that will accept PP payment?

So why are you so opposed to going OEM for less than $15?

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
 
Just because plastic parts should not be used in this application. I would be embarrassed to be stuck in my very dependable LC here in Mexico with these broken plastic tees. One person I know back in my town has damaged a motor because of one of these cracking apart. Luckily it was covered under warrantee.
 
The Mack said:
Just because plastic parts should not be used in this application. I would be embarrassed to be stuck in my very dependable LC here in Mexico with these broken plastic tees. One person I know back in my town has damaged a motor because of one of these cracking apart. Luckily it was covered under warrantee.

Why would you say they shouldn't be used? There isn't any evidence on MUD of these failing at even 100k miles. Even in hot climates like Mexico.

Even with metal, you'll still have to replace the hoses at some point. Not trying to convince you one way or the other, but it seems like you're working really hard to replace a part that will last at least 100k miles if you just replace with OEM.

How many miles do you have on your current ones?

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
 
Why would you say they shouldn't be used? There isn't any evidence on MUD of these failing at even 100k miles. Even in hot climates like Mexico.

Even with metal, you'll still have to replace the hoses at some point. Not trying to convince you one way or the other, but it seems like you're working really hard to replace a part that will last at least 100k miles if you just replace with OEM.

How many miles do you have on your current ones?

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD

Mine were like new at 133k and 12 hot Georgia summers spent at the mall
 
Yea, I am replacing those hoses too.

Again...anyone accepts Paypall for payments for the hose barb tees part number 32361 from Midland Metal
would be greatly appreciated.
 
The Mack said:
Yea, I am replacing those hoses too.

Again...anyone accepts Paypall for payments for the hose barb tees part number 32361 from Midland Metal
would be greatly appreciated.

How many miles do you have on the hoses and T's that are on there now?
 
Again...Dose know of anyone that can order these for me and accepts Paypall for payments for the hose barb tees part number 32361 from Midland Metal.
This would be greatly appreciated.
 
Again, how many miles on the ones you have now? I'm just asking...... why don't you wanna tell?
 
Again...Does know of anyone that can order these for me and accepts Paypall for payments for the hose barb tees part number 32361 from Midland Metal.
This would be greatly appreciated.

180K
 

Thanks. Great info for the site! OEM plastic lasted for 180k in the dry heat. I wouldn't recommend going that long, they should be changed with every TBelt. But it's good info to know. I'll update my post in the FAQ with that info.
 

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