Suspension Options for Daily Driver w/ Recreational Potential? (1 Viewer)

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DasKeyserSoze

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May 11, 2018
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Location
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My new 2018 200 is currently getting wrapped and I want to do wheels/tires and suspension as soon as financially possible.

Scenario: This is my daily driver and will occasionally (every 4-6 weeks) be used for camping trips and trailing with very tame (if any) rock crawling/climbing.

Future Mods: Sliders, roof rack, and bumpers (maybe)...I am not sure on the bumpers at this point; as much as I want them, I am not sure if the added weight/expense is worth it based on my situation. I know some of the other heavy/common mods like drawers aren't in the realm of possibility for me as I'll always use the 2nd/3rd rows for kids if not going to/from work.

Are there any good options that will allow me to start off with ATs (on 18s unless I can find RWs) that will perform/feel well as a daily driver, but also accommodate these family outings? That being said, I would rather not have to swap this suspension setup out if I ever do choose to get the front and rear bumpers.

Thanks!!
 
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Nothing beats KING shocks for these kinds of applications, since they are progressively valved they should be compliant during daily driving and low speed rock crawling and be provide better handling and ride quality out in the trails. They last forever, easily serviced and revalved, customer support is great.

I would suggest from personal experience to order your shocks custom with a 600lb spring, 16 inch of coilover length and the KINGs standard valving techniques which are the way to go for your kind of application where you need it to be compliant for daily driving.

Do not make the same mistake that I made with getting smaller coilovers( 14, standard OEM kit) that do not provide much lift or travel increase at all. Get a 16 inch coilover.

Take your time and make sure to give all the information that the vendor needs to get the best results the first time. Good Luck.
 
16 inch KING coilover example (custom color tho).

IMG_4755.jpg
 
What color wrap are you going for? I have the following on my 2016 and so far love it. Caution your gas mileage will go down by 10% due to the lift and additional weight of the rock sliders and skids. Will post pics later.

- ARB BP-51 OME with coilover and internal bypass (medium)
- SPC upper control arms
- Beefy Budbuilt rock sliders (200lbs)
- Budbuilt aluminum skids stage 4 (almost 80lbs)
- Escape Gear seat covers
 
My personal advice, and that is all it is. You could get away with installing the biggest A/T or M/T tires you can on the rims you have and be done. However, having been a gear head for many years, I understand the need to improve. That being said, a simple OME/ARB or other lift of 1-2" should be sufficient for your needs and not break your pocket book. It's relatively easy and inexpensive to change springs out later if you add a lot of weight via bumpers/etc.

I have Slee sliders and a small lift via SPC control arms and an OME lift kit. I have changed the rear springs a couple of times playing with ride height. I keep my eye open for someone selling used skid plates and drawer systems, but have yet to find any.

I like the looks of the replacement bumpers but don't like the weight penalty and for what I do with the vehicle, a small lift with 33's will get me where I am willing to go, which is class 4 to 5 trails in Moab or similar. The next high $$ mod I plan to do is a Harrup locker in the rear axle.
 
What color wrap are you going for?

The paint is Magnetic Grey Metallic and I am having it wrapped with XPEL Stealth Paint Protection Film. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of it before I sent it in, but I will definitely post a couple up once I get it back.
 
I'm with @tbisaacs . A nice set of 32.5-33.5" A/T tires and call it a day. Until you know further how you want to tailor it.

How big/heavy is your trailer?

How much priority do you put on ride quality? Many of the aftermarket suspension kits do firm up the ride. Not necessarily bad, but it's down to individual preferences.
 
I would just put P-metric AT tires and drive it. So I agree with tbisaacs. Shoot for about a 33 in diameter. I know, P-metric makes me odd man out.
 
My new 2018 200 is currently getting wrapped and I want to do wheels/tires and suspension as soon as financially possible.

Scenario: This is my daily driver and will occasionally (every 4-6 weeks) be used for camping trips and trailing with very tame (if any) rock crawling/climbing.

Future Mods: Sliders, roof rack, and bumpers (maybe)...I am not sure on the bumpers at this point; as much as I want them, I am not sure if the added weight/expense is worth it based on my situation. I know some of the other heavy/common mods like drawers aren't in the realm of possibility for me as I'll always use the 2nd/3rd rows for kids if not going to/from work.

Are there any good options that will allow me to start off with ATs (on 18s unless I can find RWs) that will perform/feel well as a daily driver, but also accommodate these family outings? That being said, I would rather not have to swap this suspension setup out if I ever do choose to get the front and rear bumpers.

Thanks!!
Lots of guys in the same boat as you. I powder coated my OEM wheels and purchased sliders and TOUGH DOG suspension from Jason Reeves of Trail Tailor. He gave me great advice on suspension and I must say I am very happy. Jason is a vendor on mud and I recommend him highly. Give him a call.
 
I, too, am with @tbisaacs and @TeCKis300. If it is 99% about capability, I would start with slightly taller tires and then go drive it for a while. If you are into the "look" of a lift or the "feel" of a stronger and stiffer suspension then that is OK. But the lift makes everything higher - including the tailgate and the "step up" for the fam getting in the vehicle. And you likely will not need it.

Here is some "approximate" math for comparison. My previous vehicle was a Land Rover LR4. When it "lifted" suspension mode the ground clearance was ~9.5. (It was also 11" down the middle due to the independent suspension.) At that height it did a LOT of stuff. A lot of off roading. So if we compare the LC, it is 8.9" stock. Put on some 32.5-33" AT tires (I used 285/65 KO2s on the stock wheels) and you gain about 0.5" of height. Now you're at 9.4" ground clearance. The approach and departure angles aren't what my LR4 had but they are pretty decent. And with come careful driving and a good line on the more challenging trails you'll be impressed with what it can do. And you don't have to deal with the stiffer ride or a 2" higher tailgate.

After a few camping trips and being on the trail you may find that a lift is not the first priority.

Other considerations.
  • I did sliders before a lift. We have lots of rocks on the trails here in CO and I wanted the side protection.
  • Though taller P-rated tires have advantages (ride, cost, weight) IF you drive a lot of rocky trails you will want strong sidewalls.
  • Since you don't tow a trailer and aren't adding bumpers you likely don't need the stronger suspension - yet.
  • Given that you want to go camping with the family, a roof rack could be a huge plus. That will help you manage the luggage.
You can alwasy add things later - and some of those moves are difficult to reverse. I added the tires and sliders first based on my experiences with the LR4. I added the rack after 8 months. The suspension upgrade happened after 15 months due in part to towing a 6,000# trailer with 800# or more of tongue weight.
 
I would agree with you all if the LC came with AHC or for a LX 570 which comes with AHC. I started with upgrading my tires to AT with 70 sidewall on stock suspension and I wasn’t able to clear some of the rocks in Tahyau. So if you are going to do any type of rock crawling I would first suggest you drop your side steps and install rock sliders then later lift your LC.
 
@DasKeyserSoze, on your profile it looks like you are in SoCal. One suggestion is that you use resources such as Trail Offroad and/or the Funtreks books or simply people on this forum to identify, and then explore, what I would call "Easy" trails. I have found that each person's definition of "Easy" is different. Definitions of what is "doable" in stock varies. Those with experience and/or more hefty builds tend to see "easy" differently than those of us who don't want to have any body damage - or don't necessarily enjoy the whiplash and chiropratic spine adjustment that seems to occur with hours of rock crawling. ;) Most good trail rating systems provide descriptions like those used by Trails Offroad. Size of rocks you'll encounter, whether there are shelves you'll need to climb up, etc. You may be a very experienced offroad driver but even if you are, that experience may have been in a different vehicle. The Land Cruisers are awesome but, unless you have a lot of experience with them, you may want to start out simple. It may be a waste of money and convenience to do a lift only to find that you (and maybe the family) don't really enjoy rock crawling beyond the occasional minor obstacle along a forest service road. I guess I'm just making the case to focus on what you think is most important for you and you family. If that is camping, then invest in upgrades and gear related to that first. You don't need a lift to do some awesome camping and get to some awesome places. If you find that you and the fam love the more moderate (as opposed to easy) or even difficlt trails you can add the lift (and maybe bumpers, winch, etc.) in the future. And you'll have a much better idea of what works for YOU.
 
Lots of guys in the same boat as you. I powder coated my OEM wheels and purchased sliders and TOUGH DOG suspension from Jason Reeves of Trail Tailor. He gave me great advice on suspension and I must say I am very happy. Jason is a vendor on mud and I recommend him highly. Give him a call.
I second this advice. @reevesci is Jason at Trail Tailor. He is a wealth of knowledge on suspension and was a huge help on advice. He talked in depth on the phone and made the decision easy. He sells both Tough Dog and King suspension so he was very helpful getting me what fit my needs the best instead of just trying to sell the expensive option. I went with Tough Dog suspension and am very happy with it. Rock Warriors are the 1st choice but as we all know not so easy to find. I have them, but if I hadn’t scored a set I woulda just kept stock wheels, powder coated them and rocked the biggest A/T tires that fit. Even before my lift I was amazed the places my 200 could get me on the stock setup, you’d be surprised
 
This is a ton of awesome help...I am going to look for anyone with PowderCoated wheels in the area that may want to swap out with my stock wheels. If that isn't successful, I'll look for a good 17" aftermarket wheel. I'll eventually add sliders and roof rack, but will hold off on anything further until feeling out that setup first.
 
You may want to check out the Tire Database for the 200-Series, in which Mudders report which tires worked, which rubbed, etc. with their various vehicle set ups (lifts, KDSS relocation, wheels, etc.). It can give you an idea of what would work for you.
 
Someone chime in on the OEM Spacer for the front to Level it out? That and 33s are a great way to start on a 200 and use it and learn your needs, uses, wants

edit: OEM Front Coil Spacers Installed
43136-60020
I got about 1/2" of front lift from them, I think. Note quite level but better. Wasn't really enough to help clearance on 34s so I ended up pulling them and putting on a mild lift.

Spacers and AT 33s on RWs are a good way to start. Improves the look, gives you an extra inch of clearance, but no negative impacts to handling or performance (aside from a slight mileage drop)
 
I got about 1/2" of front lift from them, I think. Note quite level but better. Wasn't really enough to help clearance on 34s so I ended up pulling them and putting on a mild lift.

Spacers and AT 33s on RWs are a good way to start. Improves the look, gives you an extra inch of clearance, but no negative impacts to handling or performance (aside from a slight mileage drop)

That hold true for any 17" wheels or does offset play into the equation as well?
 

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