There is 4 clips, two on each plastic trim front and rear. You have to pull straight down for them to pull out. I pried it with a trim removal tool ended up breaking 2/4 since they are so old. Also just bought a whole sunroof assembly for 100$ no glass but i have my donor one.
Sunroof Stuck
- Thread starter ElDoCrzr
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I do not as i bought it through craiglist. Found 2 to 3 listings in about a weeks period in my area. Ebay as well.
I'm having the same issue- sunroof is not sitting flush on the drivers side. It's recessed down on rear ds corner.
I looked under the silver alloy bar but there isn't anything to push. I see a black metal bracket with pill-shaped hole but that doesn't move? Nothing else but smooth track back there.
Any advice on this? Thanks for any tips
I looked under the silver alloy bar but there isn't anything to push. I see a black metal bracket with pill-shaped hole but that doesn't move? Nothing else but smooth track back there.
Any advice on this? Thanks for any tips
I have the same problem. I bought my LC in May with this problem. Everything else about the truck was perfect.
I found this thread 2 weeks ago after the sunroof button magically started working and my wife opened the sunroof.
With rain forecast for the next three days I went out to the truck to find a fix.
With the sunroof closed, with a screwdriver, I was able to get the sunroof back in place. Just push the mechanism forward (towards the front of the truck) until is stops. Just gently go below the flexible metal bar with a screwdriver and push the part behind it forward.
I needed a few tries to hunt for the spot but it worked. The photo below is where the screwdriver ended up when the sunroof was back in place.
You have a broken cable. Mine is the exact same way. I now duct tape the top shut during the rainy season. I have picked up a used unit to "refurbish" while it's out.
The cables are like $400 EACH and there are two. There are a few other bits you need as well if you're in that far.
If you have the 95+, it's easier to pull the headliner to get it out. If 94 or older, you will have a serious headliner issue to get to all of it because the entire unit must be dropped to repair this.
There's always SikaFlex Windshield sealer to caulk it shut..........
not correct. it is easy to remove without any headliner issue and also do not need to remove the entire unit.
i did it twice and documented in several post. do a search.
Which part is not correct? The cable part or the headliner part? I will correct my post if you advise.
there is not an issue with the headliner nor a need to entirely remove or drop the unit on a 93-94.
all you have to do is peal back the headliner enough to get at the motor unit and screws that hold the track in place.
once these are out it is easy to remove the whole track assembly for repair/replacement.
i did it twice and have pictures and a write up on how to do it.
Thanks! I'll search it as well.
’94 Sunroof Track Removal
Start on the inside of the truck first.
Re-install in reverse order.
Start on the inside of the truck first.
- Remove sunroof glass/molding 6x nuts.
- Remove headliner around sunroof opening. Do not remove too much. Only pull back what you need.
- Remove console control and trim prices.
- Remove visors.
- Remove grab bars.
- Remove the sheet metal covering the sunroof motor 3x screws.
- Remove the motor assembly 4x bolts.
- Remove the drip edge at the rear, 2x screws
- Remove wind deflector 4x screws, 2x at front and 2x at sides.
- Remove cover over tube 1x screw stainless.
- Remove 3x screws on the rail that hold in the rail. Remove these 3x screws and pull the tube below the out/off of the rail and remove the rail with the cable.
- Remove the sunshade
Re-install in reverse order.
Why didn't you just say.....see post #44......
Now, in addition.....
Peel it back on a 93-94. How about a 95+ in this same instance? Since it's a molded headliner, think it can be done in similar fashion without trashing the headliner since it's not as flexible?
mingles
GOLD Star
Why didn't you just say.....see post #44......
Now, in addition.....
Peel it back on a 93-94. How about a 95+ in this same instance? Since it's a molded headliner, think it can be done in similar fashion without trashing the headliner since it's not as flexible?
Once the visors/grab handles/console/mirror/etc. are removed there is a lot of play in the 95-97 headliner. I have had the front dropped down enough that i can get both hands between the headliner and the roof skin for running wiring. Just take care not to crease it.
I bet this process would work for dropping the motor and removing rails on the 95-97's too.
Why didn't you just say.....see post #44......
Now, in addition.....
Peel it back on a 93-94. How about a 95+ in this same instance? Since it's a molded headliner, think it can be done in similar fashion without trashing the headliner since it's not as flexible?
there are more details/photos in another post. i will have to search myself to find it.
so is yours sitting sunken in on the rear corner, and you just taped the gap?
That's a real bummer...
well, i have a 96. All I want to do is get it shut flush. I dont care about using it again.
If I loosen the headliner, can I grab the broken cable and pull it forward enough to shut the glass completely?
That's a real bummer...
well, i have a 96. All I want to do is get it shut flush. I dont care about using it again.
If I loosen the headliner, can I grab the broken cable and pull it forward enough to shut the glass completely?
no. the cable is broken at the plastic carrier piece that moves the track up for tilt and also slides the glass back into tray.
moving the cable will do nothing, most likely.
I have tried pushing and pulling and cannot successfully get it flush. I can push it up partway, then it falls back down.
That said, I also don't want to force anything and end up breaking the glass or something stupid.
You can tinker with it and see what you can do.
Withoutremoving all the parts listed, I could not get to the cable to pull it forward. Iopened it slightly, then used the motor and my hand to assist it closed as far as I could get it.
Thank you guys, I'm starting to comprehend how the mechanism works. I appreciate the experienced posts.
Bilt4me, I did the same, kind of pushing it but worried about doing something stupid and smashing the glass!
Guess I have a partially vented roof for the time being :/
I'll try opening up the headliner when I have time.
Bilt4me, I did the same, kind of pushing it but worried about doing something stupid and smashing the glass!
Guess I have a partially vented roof for the time being :/
I'll try opening up the headliner when I have time.
Thanks everyone for the info in the thread. It really helped, as this is a big unknown area.
Some additional info:
Problem: Rear corner of sunroof stays down, will not sit flush.
Probably the cable or cable pull on one side broke- per this thread.
I wanted to get the sunroof to sit flush again, and not concerned with using it again (rarely use it).
Just wanted it to be weathertight again.
Solution:
1. Take off surround trim (fragile and probably will crack and break all the tabs)
2. You will see 6 cad plated 10mm bolts, three per side. Remove.
3. Lift out sunroof and store carefully (i just set it on the roof)
Now it is very easy to access the mechanism from the top.
4. Use a flat tool to push the mechanism towards the front of the car. It will rise, and you can feel it lock in place.
5. There are metal shims between the sunroof frame and slide. These lift the glass into flush position.
You can add washers to fine tune the glass to sit totally flush with the roof.
I added one washer per rear bolt, just to get it to sit flush.
My tilt works fine. So I can still vent if I want, though I will probably not touch it again!
I would not try to wedge a screwdriver or anything in the rails. It is just so easy to pop out the glass and have much easier access, clearly see the mechanism, and not potentially gouge or damage anything.
Total time: 15-20 min casual
Some additional info:
Problem: Rear corner of sunroof stays down, will not sit flush.
Probably the cable or cable pull on one side broke- per this thread.
I wanted to get the sunroof to sit flush again, and not concerned with using it again (rarely use it).
Just wanted it to be weathertight again.
Solution:
1. Take off surround trim (fragile and probably will crack and break all the tabs)
2. You will see 6 cad plated 10mm bolts, three per side. Remove.
3. Lift out sunroof and store carefully (i just set it on the roof)
Now it is very easy to access the mechanism from the top.
4. Use a flat tool to push the mechanism towards the front of the car. It will rise, and you can feel it lock in place.
5. There are metal shims between the sunroof frame and slide. These lift the glass into flush position.
You can add washers to fine tune the glass to sit totally flush with the roof.
I added one washer per rear bolt, just to get it to sit flush.
My tilt works fine. So I can still vent if I want, though I will probably not touch it again!
I would not try to wedge a screwdriver or anything in the rails. It is just so easy to pop out the glass and have much easier access, clearly see the mechanism, and not potentially gouge or damage anything.
Total time: 15-20 min casual
so what's the trick to getting the trim pieces off without hulk smashing them?
i've been using the screwdriver method for 8 years now, need to burn a few pieces on an a 3D printer I guess...
i've been using the screwdriver method for 8 years now, need to burn a few pieces on an a 3D printer I guess...
