Suggestions for kill switch in 62

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Joined
Sep 10, 2006
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Location
Dallas, Tx.
I've found a few discussions here about kill switches in FJ60s, but what about fuel-injected FJ62s? What should the switch be wired to? Would the starter be sufficient, given that it's got an auto tranny? Has anyone done this that can walk me through it? I'm pretty handy, and comfortable doing the wiring, but not so knowledgable about the materials and electronics in general. And are you guys doing this also locking your hoods?

I realized this morning that any pretty much any object that can barely fit into my ignition (key to my house, screwdriver, popsicle stick) can start my 62. And needless to say it's got me worried.
 
What state do you live in? :D Yes this question is relevant.

I've found a few discussions here about kill switches in FJ60s, but what about fuel-injected FJ62s? What should the switch be wired to? Would the starter be sufficient, given that it's got an auto tranny? Has anyone done this that can walk me through it? I'm pretty handy, and comfortable doing the wiring, but not so knowledgable about the materials and electronics in general. And are you guys doing this also locking your hoods?

I realized this morning that any pretty much any object that can barely fit into my ignition (key to my house, screwdriver, popsicle stick) can start my 62. And needless to say it's got me worried.
 
Kill switch options

The best kill switches disable more than one vital vehicle subsystem such as ignition and fuel pump. If you only disable the fuel pump, the vehicle can still be started and driven a little ways. An EFI kill switch will disable the vehicle from starting or running, but don't bump it while you are driving.

The fj62 has several vital kill points. Pick a couple and then get creative about how you disable/enable them. If you are in a high risk for theft area, you might try something a little more professional like this one:

Ravelco Anti Theft Device
 
Starter, fuel pump, EFI circuitry. Reed switch is a good idea, perhaps wiring in an extra stock switch? What thief would ever intentionally hit the horn while trying to steal a vehicle? :hillbilly:
 
Oh man, after doing some research, I'm afraid I might be in over my head. Electronics really isn't my thing. Instructions like this and this just make my head spin. I may just be pulling the EFI fuse until I can afford a professional install. :crybaby:
 
Oh man, after doing some research, I'm afraid I might be in over my head. Electronics really isn't my thing. Instructions like this and this just make my head spin. I may just be pulling the EFI fuse until I can afford a professional install. :crybaby:

When you pull it, put in a dummy (blown) fuse to fill the slot ;)
 
Oh man, after doing some research, I'm afraid I might be in over my head. Electronics really isn't my thing. Instructions like this and this just make my head spin. I may just be pulling the EFI fuse until I can afford a professional install. :crybaby:

You don't have to get that fancy. Just get a little switch and wire it in series with something like the neutral start switch. Put the switch in a hidden spot that you can reach from the drivers seat. Then when you get the $ get something fancier. If you are just trying to discourage thieves of opportunity that should do it.
 
You don't have to get that fancy. Just get a little switch and wire it in series with something like the neutral start switch. Put the switch in a hidden spot that you can reach from the drivers seat. Then when you get the $ get something fancier. If you are just trying to discourage thieves of opportunity that should do it.

Essentially what I did but it's in a Tuffy which can be locked.
 
I have one of these for the "ignition switch" for my VW Baja project:
Beware the chinesium counterfeits!
2440.dat

A crew chief that I used to work with had one with the key in the front fender well behind a debris baffle. Anytime we were going to be out of eyesight of the truck while in Baja he pulled that 'key.'

Simply interrupting one of the grounds for EFI bits will disable that portion of the system. I'd look to see if the injectors have a ground on the engine. Some do, others don't.
Before the days of OE clutch pedal starter disable switches I put such a switch on the brake pedal of a friend's hot rod. It also had a toggle switch in the circuit hidden under the B&M shifter cover.
 
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I was looking for that on the 12 volt guy site but could not find it.
I have one of these for the "ignition switch" for my VW Baja project:
clicky:

A crew chief that I used to work with had one with the key in the front fender well behind a debris baffle. Anytime we were going to be out of eyesight of the truck while in Baja he pulled that 'key.'

Simply interrupting one of the grounds for EFI bits will disable that portion of the system. I'd look to see if the injectors have a ground on the engine. Some do, others don't.
Before the days of OE clutch pedal starter disable switches I put such a switch on the brake pedal of a friend's hot rod. It also had a toggle switch in the circuit hidden under the B&M shifter cover.
 
There are two more designs available from rallylights.com. Not much of a description for this one, usually extra terminals like these are for alternator protection, but there's no real description of what this one does differently:
Susquehanna MotorSports - Detail
TT061_lg.jpg

And the one that I'd use for activating/deactivating a winch, 5000 amps intermittent rated:
Susquehanna MotorSports - Detail
62471_lg.jpg


Not to detract from Seabass as he's been a good guy and I'm glad his idea has taken off and worked for him (bought a mini front axle from him at a price fair to both of us in '97 or '98), but there are many other sources for 12 VDC electrical parts.

Those that I routinely use:
waytechwire.com
delcity.net
westmarine.com
alliedelec.com
rallylights.com
 
I have one of these for the "ignition switch" for my VW Baja project:
clicky:

A crew chief that I used to work with had one with the key in the front fender well behind a debris baffle. Anytime we were going to be out of eyesight of the truck while in Baja he pulled that 'key.'

I'm kinda liking this idea. But have a ton of questions, if you guys could help me out:

  1. So this switch is intended to interrupt one of the main battery lines, correct? So you'd run a new cable right off the battery, to your switch point, then to the electrical system? Which side of the battery? (Yep, I'm slow about electricity).
  2. Where shouldn't this switch be mounted? Is it getting wet a problem? Suppose it's mounted in a way that the terminals are on the underside of the cruiser.
  3. Are all keys the same? So any crook with $13 would have a key to my switch?
  4. What exactly is the risk if I choose the switch without alternator protection instead of the one with alternator protection?

Edit: found a little more info about both.
 
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1) Yes, battery to switch, then switch to car. Can go on either side. Ground side can be easier to wire. Could literally attach one stud to hole in the frame and bring the battery ground cable to the other stud.

2) Getting it wet shouldn't be a problem as it is really designed to be an external battery kill switch on a race car. That said, I'd mount it somewhere not directly in the spray of going down the road.

3) Within a series AFAIK the keys are all the same. You're going on two things; the keys aren't a common item, and the would be thief has to know that he not only needs such a key, but where the switch is.

4) Do not turn the switch off with the engine running and you won't have a problem. The alternator protector circuit is intended to keep from voltage spiking the alternator's diodes and popping them. If you have friends that are likely to think turning it off is funny then put the switch somewhere not obvious.
 
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