Stumped, no spark=no start (1 Viewer)

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Jun 4, 2014
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Jax FL
Let me start out by saying we love this beast and are sad when she no go. She is a stock 91 FJ80 with 388,000 miles and solid compression.

I have been learning tons of info from the excellent crew here and now I have met my match. I downloaded Johnheld's strife & woe troubleshoot guide. EFI fuse is good, CEL is on, Coil checks out close to spec, bought another and it's the same parameters. Bought a new relay (prior to reading the guide) and replaced it, tried it with the old one again too. Even pulled the bolt on the CSI and had just a drop of fuel from it when turning engine over. Plugs are all dry so I pulled one and laid it hooked up to check spark, nothing. Checked it again at the coil output, nothing.

Background; I gave her a tune up a few months back and saw the fuel economy go from 10 to 12, she was running great. Then, Friday morning, she starts running rough, won't hold idle, then sputter backfiring for a few more miles. 5 miles from home, on a bridge, she's done, nada. Got her towed home and bought a new aftermarket coil. It took some doing but she started and smoothed out nice so off for a spin. A few miles later ( I was hammering on the gas pretty good) she is right back to sputtering and I barely made it home. Now it won't start. Checked all of the Johnheld recommended items including dist. output and they are both at ~ 180 ohms, all good there. I guess it has to be the ignition control module ? Anything else I should check before I spend the big money on one ?
Thanks in advance !
Kirk
 
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Fusible links replaced ? Mine went intermittent till they failed totally. It would run but then not restart until it'd cooled down.....
 
Joined
Jun 4, 2014
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Jax FL
Fusible links replaced ? Mine went intermittent till they failed totally. It would run but then not restart until it'd cooled down.....

No, I haven't checked those yet. I see all the comments about them like they are Type IV Frequency Modulators, so I guess that makes them important enough. I will start there, thats free.
 
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Jun 1, 2012
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GA.
I think if your fusible links were bad you would have no cel wouldn't hurt to check them. You might want to check the igniter its mounted under the coil. That's what it sounds like to me.
 
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Jun 4, 2014
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Jax FL
J -that's what I'm thinking, it's the last thing left

But,
Summit, no, I haven't checked the codes yet. researching which pins to shunt and what the code #'s mean, hope to have a plan in the am. Really need to get her rolling, bow season starts Saturday.
 
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Jun 4, 2014
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Jax FL
How do I check the igniter ? I want to do that before I buy another one, they're spensive.

Anyone have an idea where best to buy one ?,....if I need it.
 
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Jun 1, 2012
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309
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GA.
If you cross reference the number you can get one out of a Lexus car at the bone yard they have 2 of them.if I can find my spare ill get you the new number. Its the same part just a new number
 
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Jun 4, 2014
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36
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Jax FL
I'm getting frustrated with this thing. Reading thru the FSM (downloaded version, preferring a hard copy now) and I can't believe how much input is received and possibly responsible for my situation because of the emissions crap on this thing. I am almost ready to strip it down to the block and install a carb. Do the whackos understand that simple = efficient, that efficient = less waste. Think of the environmental waste from the manufacturing of the excess of parts and BS stuck on this rig, it's craziness ! This engine is a tough, 6 cylinder, iron workhorse that has been hamstrung by political idiocy. I vote for an Amendment to the Constitution that keeps politicians out from under our hoods.

Has anyone been sucessful at removing all of this and having a simple EFI system that performs ?
 
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Jun 4, 2014
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Jax FL
Thanks Allleycats ! I pulled mine and it is stamped 125, part#89621-30010 . I see ads stating the 123 is compatible ? including the one you linked. I see you have the same truck, have you used one of these ?
 
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Jun 4, 2014
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Jax FL
Thanks Allleycats ! I pulled mine and it is stamped 125, part#89621-30010 . I see ads stating the 123 is compatible ? including the one you linked. I see you have the same truck, have you used one of these ?
I confirmed the new # superceded the old one and is compatible, just purchased the one linked. will be here by Monday. Schweeet !!
Thanks for the hookup, will update once installed
Kirk
 
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Mar 9, 2012
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AZ
Yup, this is the one I'm running and you can't beat the price.



Thanks Allleycats ! I pulled mine and it is stamped 125, part#89621-30010 . I see ads stating the 123 is compatible ? including the one you linked. I see you have the same truck, have you used one of these ?
 
Joined
Jun 4, 2014
Messages
36
Location
Jax FL
tlc hose broke.jpg
Looking her over, I found this. This could be the reason my intake is so cruddy and could explain the poor fuel economy. Now, I just have to figure out what it is and where to get the part to replace it. Also, I checked my codes and got #14, ignition signal, so I think I'm on the right path to getting her started
 
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Jun 4, 2014
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Jax FL
A "DROP" of fuel? No no no. It should have sprayed all over you while you're cranking the starter. This isn't correct. Sounds like the fuel pump is not firing.
Yes Jon, that is what I was thinking. I am studying the wiring schematics and trying to determine if the fuel pump is relayed thru the ECU after the signal to fire comes from the igniter/coil. Should I hot test the fuel pump while I wait for parts to come in ?
 
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Edmond, Oklahoma
You can check the fuel pump by putting a jumper wire in the diagnostic box between the B+ to FP. You may want to test pressure by tapping into the line going to the CSI with a Fuel pressure gauge kit. I used one from Autozone on the free tool rental program.
 

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