Okay cool, that’s good to know. I will plan on having some on the sides then. Going to try contact some local plastic dealers tomorrow to see if I can get ahold of some. Might just do make shift corners like you with two strips if I can’t find premade corners. Thanks for the insight, can’t wait to have this all built.I think you could probably just have wood on wood sliding on the sides if you wanted to without much issue, but I think ideally you would have some sort of low friction surface on the sides, so that you can make it pretty tight so there’s no wiggle/rattle. The angle I used accomplishes both tasks with just one piece of material.
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Awesome, glad to hear it worked for you. That stained wood looks amazing. I see you also put a strip on the top side of the drawers, that’s a good idea. Can I ask, how much of a gap did you leave between the drawers and the slides on both the sides, and also the ceiling of the storage box? I’m planning on doing 1/8” on each side and top to allow a bit of room for any inconsistencies.I used UMWH for my slides. I did an L shape on the bottom of the box and a strip along to top of the drawer. I don't see why they wouldn't work fine in a GX or other rig without a tailgate. Saved quite a bit of money and space over traditional slides.
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Awesome, glad to hear it worked for you. That stained wood looks amazing. I see you also put a strip on the top side of the drawers, that’s a good idea. Can I ask, how much of a gap did you leave between the drawers and the slides on both the sides, and also the ceiling of the storage box? I’m planning on doing 1/8” on each side and top to allow a bit of room for any inconsistencies.
Also, did you use 1/2” ply or 3/4” for the main structure and drawers?
Thanks for all the info, it helps me a lot. Do you think ill be fine with standard 1/2” ply all around? Or should I stick with 3/4” for the main structure to be safe? I didn’t see any 5/8” for the cheaper woods at Home Depot. Probably won’t be able to afford Baltic birch or any of the expensive species.I used 5/8 for the main box body and drawer bottoms. Sides and backs of the drawers are 1/2. The face is 3/4 cabinet grade maple that I had lying around. I liquid nailed and pocket screwed it all together. I ended up using 1/2 for the drawer backs and sides because I ran out of 5/8 and didn't want to buy another full sheet. The UHMW is 1/4.
I'll have to check my measurements when I get home this evening, but I believe I reduced my drawer width by 5/8 from the size of the box opening. That accounts for the 1/4 thickness of the UHMW on each side and allows an extra 1/16 on each side for slight variation. When you figure in the slight loss of material due to the saw blade that gains you a little extra clearance as well. I did the same for the height of the drawer as well. I was very careful to clamp all the corners before I joined them and made all cuts using a saw guide to keep things square. When you buy your material its worth taking the effort to dig through the stacks of plywood to get sheets that aren't bowed.
On a side note, I made two separate boxes instead of one big one. That way I can pull one half or the other and reinstall a jump seat of needed.
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Hey man, awesome. Yeah this is my next project now that I got my new suspension in. I’ll definitely share what I do once it’s finished. Hoping to get it done by the end of next week.
Thanks for all the info, it helps me a lot. Do you think ill be fine with standard 1/2” ply all around? Or should I stick with 3/4” for the main structure to be safe? I didn’t see any 5/8” for the cheaper woods at Home Depot. Probably won’t be able to afford Baltic birch or any of the expensive species.
Also good to know about you doing 1/16”. I may do the same. For sure want it on the tighter side vertically so I’ll have more support since I have no tailgate. I am a little worried that my cuts won’t be perfect and it won’t be enough wiggle room, but I’ll definitely use a straight edge when cutting. Lastly, do you think 1/8” UHMW will suffice instead of 1/4”? That’s a good idea you did of having it in two parts. I removed my third row though so I’ll probably just do one unit. Thanks again for the info.
Ah okay cool, I actually now see that Home Depot has 19/32”. I’m definitely gonna use that for the main structure and then 1/2” for the drawers. Will also get a clamping saw guide, I can see how it’ll make a big difference. For the UHMW, you confirmed what I was thinking. Some other people’s write ups recommended using 1/8” but I was imagining it being a bit hard to countersink without going all the way through. Thanks for all the great info. I do anticipate I’ll have some unforeseen challenges as well, but very much looking forward to building it and having it finished.Look for 19/32 plywood. That is basically the same as 5/8 and is available in the cheaper sanded pine plywood. Hole Depot or Lowe's should have plenty of it. I feel like 1/2 is a little thin and 3/4 is probably over kill. 5/8 or 19/32 is really the sweet spot, IMO.
If there is a Harbor Freight near you, they sell a clamping saw guide for cheap. It works well and was a great investment.
I'd stick with the 1/4 UHMW as it thick enough to let you counter sink your screws/ fasteners. I used two separate strips instead of an L on the bottom because it was much cheaper that way.
Good luck on your build! I found my project to be much more challenging than I expected, but very satisfying to complete.
Looks great! Thanks for all the info on your setup. Yeah I’ve decided on going the UHMW route due to those same reasons. Can have the drawers a bit larger, it’s simple, and seems much more reliable than ball bearing slides.I built my drawers setup a few years ago, inspired by the Drifta drawer setup where no metal ball bearing slides are used. I liked this idea because it maximizes storage, saves weight and cost, and is a simple reliable system.
I’m no carpenter and I cut all the pieces freehand haha. The design is maybe a bit unorthodox for the sliding design, but it works very well. 3 Years now and I have not had to fix, adjust or change anything. The drawers have worked great and they are huge and custom fit to exactly the space I wanted and needed. I added the fridge box later and did use HD drawers slides on that side, but the right side storage drawers are on runners that i applied UMHW tape to to provide almost friction free movement. It’s all secured to the floor via “baseplate” type piece screwed into factory threaded floor holes. Used 12mm Russian birch, screws, UMHW tape, glue, stain, carpet and a little hardware.
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I’ll try to take some pics of the tape when I get home. I’ve never replaced the tape and it hasn’t come off from the runners at all. All I’ve done is add some stuff to keep it slippery.Looks great! Thanks for all the info on your setup. Yeah I’ve decided on going the UHMW route due to those same reasons. Can have the drawers a bit larger, it’s simple, and seems much more reliable than ball bearing slides.
How has the UHMW tape held up? I came across it and it’s much cheaper then actual UHMW slides, but I was worried about it coming off over time. Have you had any issues with it? Also how much of a gap did you leave on the sides and top of your drawers between the frame?
Hey there, slightly off topic from my main question, but have you ran into any issues with your carpet adhesive coming off having the carpet on top covering the hinges for your wings? I like the clean look of yours where the hinges don’t show, but part of me thinks it’s a better idea to have the hinges further securing the carpet. What do you think?Gents, just wanted to correct one my statements above. I used 1/8 UHMW, not 1/4. I was a able to countersink my screws without issue.
**I'll edit my original post to correct**