Stereo question on Non-Nav 01 LC

[22xxxWC]

I know theres a huge thread on stereos and i think ive read it a few times and didnt see an answer or this. Anyone do an amp/speaker upgrade and keep the stock HU. I ordered new speakers/sub, seems straight forward of a swap. But I think I want to upgrade the amp. Im not ready to drop big $$ on a new head unit yet. Car is NON-Nav. I just installed a bluetooth adapter into the 6 cd changer port and its working well. Now time to do the speakers.
--I also feel like as the stereo volume goes up, besides there being more distortion(need to swap the new speakers still), i seem to loose the lows, or its that the tweeters are just over powering everything else. Anyone else notice this? If I was to do an AMP, can i just pull the factory one and plug in a new one? I havent done a stereo in a car in so long, im completely out of the loop with this.
Thanks

 

[KillerBox]

I don't know on a LC but, normally by the time you buy the adapters to keep the OEM head unit you will be 1/3 to 1/2 of the price of a new head unit with a lot more features and better sound quality.

 

[DickB]

People have different opinions on this but unless you're going crazy with stuff you can get a great sound (better than stock) with just a head unit and speakers. I never spend money on an amp unless its for subs as most head units have internal amps that are more than powerful enough to push 4 speakers with much better than stock quality. I'd spend money on a head unit rather than an amp and then add the amp later if you want one rather than the other way around.

 

[22xxxWC]

@DickB I still want to maintain the Sub in the rear, so forgive me for being naive, but will the factory amp and sub work if I just do a head unit?

 

[DickB]

@DickB I still want to maintain the Sub in the rear, so forgive me for being naive, but will the factory amp and sub work if I just do a head unit?

There isn't really an easy or practical way to do it without an amp. But even if you're replacing the factory amp I don't know that you'll find an aftermarket one that will support 4 speakers and a sub. I could be wrong though.

I just upgraded my 01 lx470 to 6.5 inch door speakers which are bigger than the 6 inch factory sub so I just disconnected it. I figure since the woofers are bigger than the 'sub' they're probably making as much or more bass anyway. It obviously isn't enough bass to rattle the windows or anything but I've been surprised by how good it sounds even with some relatively cheap speakers.

 

[22xxxWC]

There isn't really an easy or practical way to do it without an amp. But even if you're replacing the factory amp I don't know that you'll find an aftermarket one that will support 4 speakers and a sub. I could be wrong though.

I just upgraded my 01 lx470 to 6.5 inch door speakers which are bigger than the 6 inch factory sub so I just disconnected it. I figure since the woofers are bigger than the 'sub' they're probably making as much or more bass anyway. It obviously isn't enough bass to rattle the windows or anything but I've been surprised by how good it sounds even with some relatively cheap speakers.

So you still are running the factory amp, and new speakers, I have the speakers all set to swap in, im gonna do those first and go from there. Im not looking to rattle the windows, just want to maintain a clear sound with the windows and sunroof open on long trips with the fam.

 

[Snowrydr01]

@DickB I still want to maintain the Sub in the rear, so forgive me for being naive, but will the factory amp and sub work if I just do a head unit?

if its anything like the LX, the head unit outputs FR Fl RR RL and the amp take that it and kicks out its own sub wiring. Like many here have stated i figured it best to do the head unit. The head unit is what is interpreting the music and the amp (as its named) is amplifying that signal. If you dont like HOW it sounds i would say upgrade that component. I highly doubt a 17 YO head unit is sending a great signal but the amp is where the loss is at.

 

[22xxxWC]

if its anything like the LX, the head unit outputs FR Fl RR RL and the amp take that it and kicks out its own sub wiring. Like many here have stated i figured it best to do the head unit. The head unit is what is interpreting the music and the amp (as its named) is amplifying that signal. If you dont like HOW it sounds i would say upgrade that component. I highly doubt a 17 YO head unit is sending a great signal but the amp is where the loss is at.

On your LX, did you do a HU and keep the factory amp? Works fine?

 

[jerryb]

the thing about maintaining the sub in the rear is that if you power the four up front with something decent you'll never hear the 6.5 or whatever the stock size sub is anyway. (with a 5 channel amp or a summing sub channel that some have)
If you've ever powered up four 6.5 door speakers you'll understand. If you don't want any sort of deep bass then it completely makes sense to get a 4 channel class d for cheap and let it fly. Jut pick speakers with decent response. The JL JX 400/4D is a very decent amp that fits nice and it's cheap. $150 I think.
A kenwood shallow mount media player is a good bargain for a single DIN if you don't care about actually loading CD's. Less than a 100. I've installed more than a few decks and amps in my LC. it's easier than everyone makes it out to be.

It is best to do HU and amp. You'll be unhappy if you just do one or the other.

 

[KillerBox]

I am going all out (as much as possible & keep my 3rd row).

But, these pictures might help you a little.

I am in the process of replacing the HU with a Kenwood double din, the rear subwoofer hole now has 2 batteries there, JBL MS8 is in the factory amp spot, 270 amp alternator, two 6 channel amps & a full 7.1 surround sound.

 

[KillerBox]

More pics

 

[22xxxWC]

It is best to do HU and amp. You'll be unhappy if you just do one or the other.

I really want a double din w applecar play, our VW has it from the factory, and I really love the interface, and having the maps display on it. So doing an amp and HU is probably 400 HU + 250-300 Amp. So i am not ready to drop that much into it just yet. I am starting with the speakers and going to see how that works out. I was trying to see if i do either the amp or the HU which would be best to do first. We will be using this car alot for longer drives from memorial day weekend until the end of summer, so Im trying to get something better for the time being.

 

[DickB]

I really want a double din w applecar play, our VW has it from the factory, and I really love the interface, and having the maps display on it. So doing an amp and HU is probably 400 HU + 250-300 Amp. So i am not ready to drop that much into it just yet. I am starting with the speakers and going to see how that works out. I was trying to see if i do either the amp or the HU which would be best to do first. We will be using this car alot for longer drives from memorial day weekend until the end of summer, so Im trying to get something better for the time being.

Not sure on your particular car but my 2001 Non-nav LX470 only had positive out wires on the head unit to the amp. If this is also the case for you then you probably won't be able to add just an amp anyway since it can't convert that signal like the factory amp. Never seen that before so I ended up just running new speaker wire and bypassing the factory amp to use the amp built into the head unit. I hear running a stock head unit through the factory amp is a pain without an extra ~$80 worth of parts anyway.

 

[jerryb]

from another thread from suprarx7nut. this is the best advice. read the thread here.

Speaker grounding loop-whine with engine

- I was in the EXACT same situation last week. 99 LC, aftermarket stereo, factory amp, whine in the stereo. I solved my problem by bypassing the factory amp - and you should do the same. Do not buy a new head unit, do not buy a cheesy ground loop isolator, do not try to filter the power or improve your grounds. Those fixes will not work. The factory amp is AWFUL anyways. Your aftermarket stereo likely has the same or maybe even more power anyways.

The problem comes from the factory amp having a slightly non-chassis ground for the RCA shielding. Aftermarket amps simply use ground as the shield. It's generally reliable and consistent. The Factory Toyota Amp uses a unique ground for the factory amp - unique in that it's not actually chassis ground. My whine got worse and worse the better I grounded or powered the aftermarket head unit. I believe this occurred because I was bringing that shield line further and further from where the factory amp wants it. Since there's generally no way to alter the RCA grounding within the aftermarket head unit you really have no good way to rectify the situation aside from giving the factory amp the axe.

You can verify your situation by checking the factory shield line resistance to ground with the car on. You should find that the shield line is actually active and no grounded as it needs to be to work well with the new head unit.

Bypassing the amp is easy and just requires splicing together 8 wires which you run behind the glove box and under the carpet.

I'm putting together a video on exactly how to do it and a super clean option if you want to spend a few bucks on a couple new connectors.

the only other thing I would say is that look at this picture, this thing isn't doing any good in any land crusier.

You can keep your stock HU and add a different amp. Use the high level inputs. Again though, YMMV