Steering Rack Replacement Questions

[ToyotaBrah]

Hello all, I'm in the middle of replacing the steering rack on my 2006 LC. I might be over thinking these things but wanted to hear from others before continuing reassembly.

1. Does the gap between the steering wheel thrust stopper plate and firewall look appropriate? I have the no. 2 intermediate shaft fitted correctly on the ps rack so conceptually the sliding yoke will be positioned on the steering intermediate shaft correctly after.

When looking at this area standing at front of truck and looking into engine bay angle, there is a lot of exposed splines on the intermediate shaft. My photo is from the wheel well currently but will work on getting a better angle during daylight.

2. The entire front end is disassembled so didn't put effort into marking anything. I had the ps rack positioned to have each inner tie rod measure the same when referencing the boot clamp as measuring point. Is this reasonable approach for getting a general neutral point for the rack? Of course alignment will still be done afterward.

 

[Landman2000]

I recently replaced the rack on my 2000 LC. I marked everything beforehand. I did replace the intermediate shaft and outer tie rod ends as well. Here is a picture of the gap between my firewall and washer on the intermediate shaft before removal. I was careful to center the steering wheel and hold it in place with my seat belt during the process. I also made note of the remaining threads between the jam nut on the outer tie rod. Drivers side was like 10 threads and passenger was 11. Once I got everything installed back together, my steering wheel was slightly off center. I corrected this by loosening the clamps on the inner tie rod boots and rotating the inner tie rods in opposite directions until it centered my steering wheel.

My only issue now is the outer tie rod engagement to the inner tie rod threads is off my about a 1/4” from passenger to drivers. Never got an alignment either as I cannot find anyone locally I trust to do the job properly. Other than that it drives great.

 

[2001LC]

Line up the mark. Set steering wheel streight.

 

[excessive]

i still have nihgtmares about this job, one of the most difficult jobs ive ever done . good luck

 

[2001LC]

The only ones I found tough, had used stop leak, gluing line to rack & pinion. PITA requiring new lines. Please never use a stop leak.

A few tips:

1. Do not spin steering wheel. I do turn ~90, keeping track of orientation from center, so I can turn back to center. This helps get intermediate shaft bolt 25ft-lbf head point down where I get to it. Once I remove bolt, I spread clamp, by driving chisel in-between space. Warn if steering wheel turn to far, clock spring may break.
2. Start job by flushing all fluid from PS system.
3. Count threads between outer TRE lock nut and inner TRE. If these are not even count, say 13 & 5 (total count of both side 18). Even out to 9 & 9, during assemble.
4. Use a flare nut socket. (17mm IIRC)
5. Line up marks found on new input shaft, boot and rack housing. They set Rack dead center with pinion. Put each outer TRE out same distance.
6. Slip #2 intermediate shaft clamp end (with clamp bolt 25ft-lbf out) onto input shaft of pinion. Before bolting down Rack housing to frame. As a test alignment fitting.
7. Clean reservoir or replace. Also replace any hoses leaking. I use Mobil 1 ATF best. Any ATF works, just don't mix or use power steering fluid.
8. Replacing old outer TRE is a great touch. I use only OEM. Use a puller, not a BFH to remove.
9. If LX 03-07. Use tech stream to center steering wheel. So SWEET!

Intermediate shaft bolt & clamp.

Drive chisel between space, once bolt out

Outer TRE press out tool. We do not need to remove, if not replacing.

Customized by grind opening larger

 

[LandCruither]

The only ones I found tough, had used stop leak, gluing line to rack & pinion. PITA requiring new lines. Please never use a stop leak.
View attachment 4196374

A few tips:

1. Do not spin steering wheel. I do turn ~90, keeping track of orientation from center, so I can turn back to center. This helps get intermediate shaft bolt 25ft-lbf head point down where I get to it. Once I remove bolt, I spread clamp, by driving chisel in-between space. Warn if steering wheel turn to far, clock spring may break.
2. Start job by flushing all fluid from PS system.
3. Count threads between outer TRE lock nut and inner TRE. If these are not even count, say 13 & 5 (total count of both side 18). Even out to 9 & 9, during assemble.
4. Use a flare nut socket. (17mm IIRC)
5. Line up marks found on new input shaft, boot and rack housing. They set Rack dead center with pinion. Put each outer TRE out same distance.
6. Slip #2 intermediate shaft clamp end (with clamp bolt 25ft-lbf out) onto input shaft of pinion. Before bolting down Rack housing to frame. As a test alignment fitting.
7. Clean reservoir or replace. Also replace any hoses leaking. I use Mobil 1 ATF best. Any ATF works, just don't mix or use power steering fluid.
8. Replacing old outer TRE is a great touch. I use only OEM. Use a puller, not a BFH to remove.
9. If LX 03-07. Use tech stream to center steering wheel. So SWEET!

Intermediate shaft bolt & clamp.

View attachment 4196380View attachment 4196379
Drive chisel between space, once bolt out

View attachment 4196383

Outer TRE press out tool. We do not need to remove, if not replacing.
View attachment 4196360
Customized by grind opening larger
View attachment 4196358

Do you work on cruisers here in Colorado, @2001LC ?

 

[2001LC]

Do you work on cruisers here in Colorado, @2001LC ?

I do! In Centennial.

 

[LandCruither]

I do! In Centennial.

Awesome! I'm in need of a rack in the near future. I have a mechanic (just a nice guy that does it as a side job) that I typically use and hes already given me a quote but I've always wanted to find someone local that really knows our rigs. I'm in Littleton, so not far at all! Are you ok if I send you a message when I'm ready to pull the trigger?

 

[2001LC]

Awesome! I'm in need of a rack in the near future. I have a mechanic (just a nice guy that does it as a side job) that I typically use and hes already given me a quote but I've always wanted to find someone local that really knows our rigs. I'm in Littleton, so not far at all! Are you ok if I send you a message when I'm ready to pull the trigger?

If you like. DM your contract info now, I'll get back to you. Best we lookover your 05LX together in near term. See what all it may or may not need. Then I can make specific recommendation.

 

[LandCruither]

If you like. DM your contract info now, I'll get back to you. Best we lookover your 05LX together in near term. See what all it may or may not need. Then I can make specific recommendation.

Sounds like a perfect plan to me!

 

[rcc0023]

After replacing yours, was the steering really stiff? Almost like you didn’t have power steering? Before anyone asks yes the system is fully bled. I think I might need to do a new power steering pump, or a Check steering preload.

 

[2001LC]

After replacing yours, was the steering really stiff? Almost like you didn’t have power steering? Before anyone asks yes the system is fully bled. I think I might need to do a new power steering pump, or a Check steering preload.

If new OEM R&P, preload is set perfectly.
In my experience. Bad Vane pumps either leak or make a lot of nose or both.

If you like help from forum:
List your make, year, miles and build.
Also what all parts you replace, with what and "procedures" (devil is in the detail) you used.