Steering knuckle rebuild

[Poncherelli]

So I’ve been thinking about tightening up the front end on my 98 LC w 170k miles and those thoughts were confirmed by others much more knowledgeable then me here on Mud.

I’m curious if there exists a common practice for that refresh?

I don’t have any issues currently except for a slight shimmy or shake when going about 75mph on the highway. All new tires and balancing (not road force). Was thinking maybe it’s U-joint related but also have just a touch of steering looseness on the highway so leaning again to steering knuckle refresh.

My issue is that I went to Toyota parts and circled some bushings and bearings that I wanted to replace and was shocked with the price. Hope it’s not against any policy but I’m going to post here so you guys can comment on a better plan of attack. Thanks

 

[Poncherelli]

See the parts and quote attached

 

[planomateo]

Partsouq.com, dealer is trying to take you behind the woodshed.

 

[kruisinkid]

i too get a not great wobble at 74mph and above that i would love to get rid of. i replaced the front stabilizer ends/bushings and that did not help, but tightened steering up a tiny bit. i am due for a rotation and will probably do a rebalance and an alignment if needed. hoping all that does it. my old 80 series did the same thing at the same speeds. never fully got rid of that wobble either.

 

[kruisinkid]

you are in MA!
use Toyota OEM Parts | EB TOYOTA PARTS | toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com | Boch Toyota South
probably the cheapest in the US and delivery will be next day once shipped
use ThankYou50 for half off shipping

edit: that first line item alone is only $21.03 at boch

 

[Poncherelli]

you are in MA!
use Toyota OEM Parts | EB TOYOTA PARTS | toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com | Boch Toyota South
probably the cheapest in the US and delivery will be next day once shipped
use ThankYou50 for half off shipping

edit: that first line item alone is only $21.03 at boch

Cool. I’ll check it out.

 

[2001LC]

The only part I know I need on every knuckle service is the oil seal 90316-72001. Every thing else is subject to inspection.

At your age, miles and level of rust likely you'll want:
1 x 47781-60110 COVER, DISC BRAKE DUST, FRONT RH 98-02 05/2005-
1 x 47782-60110 COVER, DISC BRAKE DUST, FRONT LH 98-02 05/2005-
2 X 43436-60020 Gasket, knuckle large for dust seal
2 x 90313-99001 SEAL, DUST(FOR knuckle)

Ball joint boots are only needed, if torn. If ball joints bad, replace ball joints with 555.

Use a lot of care taking wheel speed sensors out. They'll likely be rusted in. Some may say don't touch them, if frozen in.

If front drive shaft (CV) bad. Now the time to replace.

 

[kevin2i]

Check your wheels for balance first (maybe rotate). Yes tire tire shops can get sloppy, or balance things “close enough” which is not, or a new tire has issues .
Crazy prices — Cheaper to replace the upper control arms with bushings and ball joints. Check online prices (Olathe, toyotadiscountparts, etc). Replace all rubber bushings (sway bar) - cheap.
Is there any play if you lift one tire (lift at lower control arm). Tie rod ends (note inner tire rod is inside boot) can be checked moving tire left/right. Ball joint (lower) if you can see movement up/down (pry tire up with a board). If wheel moves without tie rod or ball joint moving - check wheel bearings. Check for power steering fluid inside steering boots. Driveshafts don’t directly affect steering - but check CV boots, any noises in drivetrain (clunks, clicks?). If you take some time (and easier with helper) not too hard to inspect where play in suspension is coming from.
Also check play in the power steering rack bushings (I had 1/4 inch movement, replaced with polyurethane). Most of my ‘steering slop’ was in those bushings and inner tie rod ends.

I have a friendly parts guy at the local Toyota dealer - will match discount online prices if I bring him a print out with price/part number - which can be a big savings since I don’t pay shipping.
— Kevin

 

[brownfox]

Have you checked your steering rack for any play?
Looks like they circled the bump stops? That’s seems to be an odd replacement choice to me.

 

[Eyedaho]

Have you checked your steering rack for any play?
Looks like they circled the bump stops? That’s seems to be an odd replacement choice to me.

Agreed on the bump stops. If those are coming into play with your 75mph wobble, you'll have much bigger problems, like getting your driver's seat removed from your posterior.

 

[nissanh]

I am about to do a complete suspension job with OEM parts. Anybody knows whether the front lower control arm comes with the rear bushing (48655 in the above image)?

Does toyota sell OEM ball joints separately?

There are two part numbers for upper control arm on rear axle, Anybody knows the correct number for a 2000 LC?

Thanks

 

[Moridinbg]

Toyota does not sell ball joints, only the entire control arms.
You can do an aftermarket replacement with Sankei 555 - they are good and way cheaper than control arms.
SB-3812 for the lower, SB-3841 for the upper.

@Poncherelli - the needle bearings and bushing (43211 & 90364-33011) are very unlikely to fail, unless your seals have failed and are a bitch to replace.
If you go that route anyway, there is a dust seal on the CV that interfaces with the oil seal (43211/43212). For the 100 it's not available as a part number, supposed to replace the entire CV axle, but if yours are good and seal is bad - 90304-A0001from a 4runner works, according to other posts here. I was unable to find that one in Europe, here 90304-83002 from a 120/150 is the go to replacement.

I do not think that just blindly replacing parts is the right approach. For steering looseness, have somebody watch the steering rack while you turn the steering wheel when stationary. If it has excessive sideways play the rack bushings are busted. Again, not sold by Toyota - they sell entire racks ($$$), but there are various polyurethane options (Superpro, Whitelines, etc).