STEERING BOX RELOCATED (1 Viewer)

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May 7, 2014
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Well as I dive more and more into thie 75 FJ i keep finding out interesting things. Yesterday I found that the steering box, a saginaw, that is placed out off the frame really shouldn't be there at all. Sigh....apparently the original owner wanted "headers". Soooo...what to do, what to do..? Owe I know, I'll get rid of the original steering box and equipment, move the aftermarket Saginaw box out to the front frame near bumpers, opps front bumper in the way, I'll cut that s*** outta that and make a "new bumper"... opps got more metal in the way underneath , no problem I'll cut that s*** outtta that as well..gotta have my headers...

So now what...? I took some pics of the areas in question.. maybe by looking at it you guys/gals can let me know what is savagable... I am going to take the headers out and put it back the way it was...

Thanks again... just need some advice..

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Outside the frame rail is the number one spot I have seen power steering conversions. I dont see what the problem is. What is the issue with it?
 
I should have mentioned it ealier.... its NOT even power steering.... HAHA..
I just want to know if I can convert it back to original position?
Or did the the last guys hack and cut way to much and I should just leave it...
When I drive and brake and make turns, the rubbing on the steering rod causes a horrible shake and vibration..
Thats my Issue with it... Its not safe..
 
Sorry Diggman I didnt look at the pics. haha Why not consider puting in power steering? I wouldnt go through the work personally to move it back but just make it right. If you were in my area I would give you the parts to get it back to original.
 
Ok, here are the things I see that I would fix:
(1) Doubt anything is wrong with the steering gear, other than it is manual instead of power. Saginaw manual steering is better than stock manual steering because Saginaw conversions get rid of 2-3 middle men (less hardware between steering wheel and tire).
(2) Steering gear did not interfere with front bumper, PO just preferred a custom front bumper.
(3) I doubt sheering shaft rubbing against front motor mount cushion is a problem (or causing shake/wobble). Culprit may be (a) steering stabilizer shock shot many years ago, (b) poor alignment, (c) need to run higher pressure in front tires, or (d) all of the above.
(4) Your steering drive shaft is very old school, and has no built-in slip yoke (so you are destroying the bushing under the steering wheel, or back side of the wheel). A new steering drive shaft with built-in slip yoke at the bottom u-joint will also improve the drive shaft angle so that it may not rub the motor mount (or at least not as much).
(5) Your rig has Coil-Over shocks, absolute poo-poo, they work about 90 percent in the wrong direction, your rig becomes "double spring loaded", with violent rebounds.
Contact me about info on an improved steering drive shaft and a freebie Saginaw Steering Conversion Instruction Manual!!!!
 
Thanks for all the input guys...
I know a guy locally that has a 74 fj steering column, steering box, ect.... would 74 equipment work on the 75's?
 
Keep the sag it's sooooo much better than stock!!! If any thing upgrade to power steering box and you will see a huge difference. It should be bolt on now that the conversion is done. And x2 on the slip yoke intermediate shaft. It's also safer in a front impact. It keeps the steering wheel from crushing your face
 
If your looking to be a purist. I would say finding a more original truck. Also you need to flip your bezzle :p
 
Keep the sag it's sooooo much better than stock!!! If any thing upgrade to power steering box and you will see a huge difference. It should be bolt on now that the conversion is done. And x2 on the slip yoke intermediate shaft. It's also safer in a front impact. It keeps the steering wheel from crushing your face

I'd disagree - yes, the hole in the crossmember has been cut BUT - to convert to power steering I would strongly recommend welding in some reinforcement to both frame horns. The force applied by power steering on an un-reinforced frame can cause the frame horns to collapse. Generally, saginaw power steering conversions involve a strong plate on the driver side to bolt the box to, and a second scab plate on the passenger side frame horn as well. In addition, (if not done already) I'd want to reinforce the pass-through in the front frame crossmember with some tubing to keep it structurally sound as well. The forces applied by the power boxes are not something to be taken lightly!
 
Its not power steering, just weird set up for manual steering.
 
Its not power steering, just weird set up for manual steering.

I know. That's why I quoted Nitroid in saying that converting to power steering would be "bolt on." I'm simply providing a counterpoint that it absolutely wouldn't be...
 
Thanks for all the input.. I think Im going to drop in an original steering box and rods from a 74 FJ.. I know a guy locally that has the parts to make it happen. Little concerend by the "It keeps the steering wheel from crushing your face" comment above.. Does the steering wheel sit closer to ones face with stock column?

Or did I read that wrong.. HAHA

My thought.. If the guys who designed the FJ wanted the steering box in certain spot it should stay there..... I dont want BUBBA from the back woods to just cut, weld, and or glue stuff togehter...
 
The Saginaw steering is a very common setup, and yours isn't too far off from being done properly. There are OEM applications that have the steering box located in a similar spot to where yours is currently located (think cj7). Just some better execution with proper reinforcement plates available through vendors and you'll be good to go.

If you want to go back to stock you will have to have someone do the frame repairs. The OEM box pedestal was also originally hot riveted to the frame, though many folks substitute bolted connections for these riveted connections. So you might consider Minitruck power steering or fj60 power steering which will eliminate your main concern of having holes cut in the frame. Minitruck power steering is basically the same as the OEM fj40 power steering setup and the hard part of cutting off the OEM stuff has already been done for you.


...via IH8MUD app
 
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Regarding the "steering wheel crushing your face" comment - this refers to what happens in a head-on accident. With a solid-rod setup like you have (and I believe many original FJ40 steering columns had) the steering column does not "collapse" in an accident, it gets pushed through the dash and into your face. With a slip-shaft, the rod collapses or telescopes in on itself as the front end buckles, which prevents the steering wheel from becoming a projectile.

Long story short - if you can swing it, I'd install a slip shaft steering linkage! I'm running a Borgeson Universal shaft. That rubber boot in the middle is where it can adjust under flex, or collapse in an accident. It's a tight squeeze past the exhaust manifold on my 283 as well!


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By the way, if done correctly, there is nothing "back woods" about a steering conversion. Mine looked similar to yours when I bought it (albeit, power steering, not manual). I had it re-done correctly and now it looks much more like it belongs there:

Before:
Poorly welded-in scab plates and a poorly cut hole through the frame. Mounted to a solid rod, and connected through the frame with a spud shaft what would cause the rear of the box to leak. In addition, the box was literally WELDED to the plates (no bolts). You want to talk back woods? Let's try welding cast iron to steel!

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After:

Removed the bad double-plated, welded mess. Repaired all the burn-through on the frame horn, patched the front cross member, cut a new hole, and sleeved it properly with DOM tubing. I honestly think it looks like it belongs there:


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The only thing I would do differently, if I did it again, would be to space out the box from the frame horn just a LITTLE further, as right now it interferes with my front shackle, which I had to "modify" to make clear.

It might actually be easier, with all the holes already drilled, to keep the manual saginaw box and just clean up the set-up, rather than go back to stock. There is nothing wrong with either set up, just up to personal preference.
 
Thanks for the Pics.. That is a good point about the "face crushing". Something I would never think of.
I'm still researching all the different ways to do this... so Will let you all know and post pics when I start.

Thanks
 

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