Starting prob!

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Jul 7, 2012
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hay guys I'm new to owning a fj80, and am haveing an issue. I parked it and now it will not start. I left it for a day and still nada, I checked for power at the relay and it is fine, I can hear the relay kick when I turn the key, but not the pump. If I jump the terminals on the check plug I can get the pump to run... Am I missing a link in between the two?
 
First thing I'd do is try jump-starting it.

Welcome,

Curtis

Edit: Ok, wait. Need a lot more info:

Doesn't crank? Cranks but won't fire up? Year of your rig?
 
Oops, left some things out... I have a 91 and I belive it is a 3fe it cranks fine but not starting. I cant hear the pump kick on unless I jump the connector then I can hear it buzzing away. But if I leave it jumped and try to start it it still will not run...
 
Yes it is... I'm so confused, I have power at the relay just fine. And I if I use a jump wire I have power at the pump, but with out the jumper, I do not get power to the pump.....
 
My book shows a circuit opening realy, could that be the problem? It's the only thing I can see from the wireing diagram that would be between the two, if it is could you tell me where it is located on the vehicle??
 
I have a 92 3FE and had the same problem a few weeks ago. It was the EFI relay/fuse. You can get the non oem ones at Autozone to get you by. I live in AZ and have trouble with them getting too hot while pulling a trailer in the summer. It is worth the 13.00 bucks to swap it out and see if it starts. It is in the black box under the hood by the drivers side fender. It is a round metal relay. There are two, one is for the horn. The top one towards the engine is the EFI relay. There should be a diagram on the top of the black box.
 
Just Called my local autozone and they said they could order the relay for $180????
 
If your check engine lamp is on when the key is in the ON position without the motor running, the EFI circuit is functioning as it should.

The fuel pump should NOT run with the key in the ON position without the motor running. The fuel pump only runs while cranking the starter and when the AFM flap opens when the motor catches.

Lets get some details about this truck and associated problems. Was this working fine one day and just dead the next? Was anything done under the hood prior to the failure to start?
 
It ran great I drove it home from work, parked it and when I got in the next morning it would just crank not start. I haven't done anything under the hood other than run a power line to an amp in the rear. But I did that 3 weeks ago... I have owned this car for 7 months now, it has 298k and the previous owner said the motor was swapped at 200k, the things I have done are new brakes (performance rotors and calipers) new sound system, but the work was mainly done the first week I owned it and I just hooked the amp up this month... I don't know if any of the censors were changed at the motor swap or what else has been done. I was told I need to check spark with starting fluid, is that right?
 
Autozone part number is Master Pro Ignition 2JR6 or R3054 has two numbers on it. Carquest is more but the part number is relay #83109. You can take the OEM Denso one with you and they can cross reference it. It is not an expensive part and was used in many types of Toyota's. Hope that helps.
 
Ok, so i tryed to check spark and nada there... I'm going to check the coil next any other ideas?
 
Give this a shot. Since your CE lamp is on when it should be, we can assume the EFI circuitry and ECU are functioning as they should. However the problem could be downstream at the distributor or coil/igniter.

BTW< before we get totally nutz with this, when was the last time a tuneup was done? How old is the cap and rotor? Check the simple things first.

http://www.sdsysdesign.com/tlc/images/Strife/3FE EFI Diag.pdf
 
I just checked resistance at the coil, the book I have said the resistance should b .45 to .50 between the positive and neg, I am getting 1.0 does this meen I need to replace the coil? Are there any other things I should look at replaceing that cause coil failure? Or that may have been damaged by the coil not working properly?
 
I should probably do a tune up, the past owner said he just did one and I was inclined to belive it, the boxes were in the back still so 1500-2k ago?
 
I just checked resistance at the coil, the book I have said the resistance should b .45 to .50 between the positive and neg, I am getting 1.0 does this meen I need to replace the coil? Are there any other things I should look at replaceing that cause coil failure? Or that may have been damaged by the coil not working properly?

Make sure you zero out the meter using the leads before making low resistance measurements. 1/2 ohm is fairly small.

I would check everything that can be checked before throwing parts at this.
 
Aftermarket, zero the meter? I have a cheap digital read with the spin dial.. how would I zero it?
 
So I checked the power going in to the coil, I have power in but I tryed to do a spark check at the coil and didn't get anything out. So does that meen the coil?
 
The fuel pump should NOT run with the key in the ON position without the motor running. The fuel pump only runs while cranking the starter and when the AFM flap opens when the motor catches.

I believe that you also need a signal from the alternator during cranking for the ECU to know that the engine is actually turning over to trigger fuel and spark.

At least that is what the 1FZ-FEs seem to want.
 

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