Starter solenoid the likely culprit?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 3, 2024
Threads
5
Messages
26
Location
georgia
I’m too new to owning my LX to assume I know much…

2000 LX. Have an out of nowhere issue when starting engine.

Replaced starter about 18k miles ago at 215k. Alternator swapped last summer.

Vehicle wants to click/engage with ignition key turned and acts like a weak battery but will eventually turn over and start with a couple on/off toggles with key. It turns over sharply and once it happens.

Am I wrong to assume a starter solenoid impending failure? Would you guys look at other culprits?
 
When IG key turn to start. I assume you see dash lights dim and or battery gauge dips?
Stock or aftermarket battery set-up, like perhaps a second battery?

Make very sure, battery clamps and cables all secure and battery post clean. Also the fusible link (hangs off positive cable) in good condition.

Which battery and what's voltage are you seeing?
(G24f we like to see above 12.4V min., G27f 12.2v, some very large batteries, we can get away with as blow as 11.4V.

I’m too new to owning my LX to assume I know much…

2000 LX. Have an out of nowhere issue when starting engine.

Replaced starter about 18k miles ago at 215k. Alternator swapped last summer.

Vehicle wants to click/engage with ignition key turned and acts like a weak battery
"Wants" to or does click?
Have you confirm, click from starter?
One way to do this is with mechanics stethoscope, place on starter. While someone else tries to start. One can use a long steel rod a very long screwdriver.

If starter does click:
It can be a failed Bendix drive loudly. When these fail, we'll often hear a click. The solenoids contacts engage plunger, forcing Bendix Drive to extends, out of alignment and hits flex plate "CLICK". After a few tries, the gears mesh on extension and it starts.
Can also be the two bolts that secure starter, to block. Have walked out, due to not being torque. Starter can move around, changing bendix drive alignment with flex plate.

It be may case, of contacts not seated properly. I reset all reman starter contracts, before install.
It can also be, hot wire nut has loosened.
Or the signal wire housing block loose. I replace the wire housing block on most. Because, the locking clip almost always break. Did your break, when removed?
but will eventually turn over and start with a couple on/off toggles with key. It turns over sharply and once it happens.

Am I wrong to assume a starter solenoid impending failure? Would you guys look at other culprits?
It's actually rare, to hear click. When contact of solenoid fail. It can "click", but would likely be a very mild click and hard to hear while in driver seat.
 
Many thx for the detailed response. Been working day to dark last couple. This LX hasn’t missed a step since purchase and was maintained by previous. On a lark yesterday, I jumped it with a LiPo pack and it acted similar but fired off after a couple ignition on/offs. Kept it running for a 30” ride and pit stopped at local auto parts place for a quick confirmation of battery/alternator health. Both checked out per them.

1. Yes lights/gauges dim with ignition. Aftermarket battery. 12.3v on my meter with a g27f battery. Replaced it when I bought the truck back in Jan 24.
2. Clamps and posts clean. I replaced the negative clamp about 6 months ago but no corrosion on wires, posts or clamps.
3. Starter does audibly click with IG.
4. I’m familiar with bendix from working on other stuff (jetskis/dirt bikes) but never fooled with automotive bendix. Assume it’s same concept.
5. The starter was replaced by a reputable mechanic…assume it was installed properly. Hasn’t missed a beat until now. I’ll crawl under and check the hot connect tomorrow.
6. I’m unfamiliar with the signal wire housing block. Is this off the positive battery terminal with a couple fuses?

Came home today and needed LiPo jump off again. Same issues after a long drive, turned off, let sit for 5 mins…took 3 IG turns to engage starter enough to turn over engine.
 
Many thx for the detailed response. Been working day to dark last couple. This LX hasn’t missed a step since purchase and was maintained by previous. On a lark yesterday, I jumped it with a LiPo pack and it acted similar but fired off after a couple ignition on/offs. Kept it running for a 30” ride and pit stopped at local auto parts place for a quick confirmation of battery/alternator health. Both checked out per them.

1. Yes lights/gauges dim with ignition. Aftermarket battery. 12.3v on my meter with a g27f battery. Replaced it when I bought the truck back in Jan 24.
2. Clamps and posts clean. I replaced the negative clamp about 6 months ago but no corrosion on wires, posts or clamps.
3. Starter does audibly click with IG.
This does indicate power/voltage is getting to starter and starter is pulling AMPs.
4. I’m familiar with bendix from working on other stuff (jetskis/dirt bikes) but never fooled with automotive bendix. Assume it’s same concept.
5. The starter was replaced by a reputable mechanic…assume it was installed properly.
You can check the two bolts, holding starter. From top back of engine, They pass through bell housing.
One of those blots can be seen here.


001.webp


Both starter bolts & bendix drive flex plate gear and flex plate are seen on this engine on engine stand.
(note: This is a vvti engine, so we see the BK1 & BK2 S.A.I. SW. valve on rear water bypass.
009.webp


Hasn’t missed a beat until now. I’ll crawl under and check the hot connect tomorrow.
6. I’m unfamiliar with the signal wire housing block. Is this off the positive battery terminal with a couple fuses?
It's one small gauge wire with wire housing connector block, connected to starter. It's likely okay, since you see dash lights dim and click is from starter.
004.webp

The lock is missing from this wire housing block
Starter 2001 2UZ-fe engine 007.webp

Lock can be seen on this OEM replacement wire housing connector block
Statrer wire housing connector (1).webp

We have a heavy gauge wire with lug, that a nut holds on stud. Which stud, is where main hot wire to start attaches.
If those contacts seen in bottom of solenoid housing, aren't seated properly. Plunger contact washer, hit contacts at an angle. Over time, result in a bad contact surface. Where one side makes a poor contact.
Denso remanufactured, Tech has choice and what parts are replaced. Toyota Denso, have list of parts that must be replaced. In either case the contact must be properly seated.
Starter cleaning 01LX 215K 1 (27).webp


Plunger
Starter cleaning 01LX 215K 1 (52).webp

We also have heavy gauge ground wire(s) that connect to the block.
Z 01 LX470 day Starter install & wire splice 3-21-16 080.webp

Came home today and needed LiPo jump off again. Same issues after a long drive, turned off, let sit for 5 mins…took 3 IG turns to engage starter enough to turn over engine.
Light click heard: When contact become age and worn, it hit spots that give very poor contact. We many hear a very light click. If contact not fully seated and their nuts not torqued properly. It can act likely worn contacts.

A loud click heard: May be bendix drive extending, and it's gear hitting flex plate out of alignment. This beats on flex plate leaving marks in most cases. One can pull inspection plate off bell housing. Then inspect teeth of flex plate, by turning crank by hand 360 degrees.
Starter old (2).webp
Starter old (1).webp
 
Last edited:
Finally getting back to inspecting.

Was able to get under hood and crawl over the top side to try and get a peak at the starter. Vids are not great due to holding iPhone upside down and backwards, in the mid day Georgia sun on a step stool…lol.

1. Confirmed all battery posts and wire terminals are clean and secure.
2. Fusible link is clean/secure
3. Topped battery with fresh charge - 12.8v
4. Confirmed ground continuity, did not do a voltage drop test yet.
5. Looks like vehicle gauge showing less than the 12.8v I’m getting from multi-meter 🚩
5. Confirmed starter mounts are secure
6. Found one missing bracket bolt for plastic starter harness.
7. Zero change in symptoms after cleaning up and replacing bolt.
8. Looking at pulling intake/throttle body and inspecting starter/bendix unless y’all have more ideas.




 
Last edited:
The missing bolt would have very little if any effect on starting. Other than allow wires harness, to bounce around a bit. It does show, job was a bit sloppy. One must ask: Where did bolt go! Was it later found and discarded. Or worst, fell into intake port. Which I've seen happen from Dealership R&R of starter.

If you're sure. Click is at starter, and not a relay in fuse box. Yes, I'd pull starter.

Number one concern while pulling starter. Don't drop sand into intake ports. Cleaning top of engine is first step, in any starter R&R.
 
The missing bolt would have very little if any effect on starting. Other than allow wires harness, to bounce around a bit. It does show, job was a bit sloppy. One must ask: Where did bolt go! Was it later found and discarded. Or worst, fell into intake port. Which I've seen happen from Dealership R&R of starter.

If you're sure. Click is at starter, and not a relay in fuse box. Yes, I'd pull starter.

Number one concern while pulling starter. Don't drop sand into intake ports. Cleaning top of engine is first step, in any starter R&R.
Any idea what to make of vehicle battery gauge showing less than 12v after charge?
 
Any idea what to make of vehicle battery gauge showing less than 12v after charge?
I noticed, your battery gauge looking about right (12V+) IG key on. But didn't "seem" to dip, as power drop enough to dim dash lights. While IG key turned to start. IDK why!

Check battery voltage with multimeter. First on the battery post, then from clamps, then pos clamp on battery, and negative on a ground away from battery. All points checked, should read the same voltage.
 
Finally had a day off to fiddle with it. Checked battery voltage across the posts and at multiple ground points, getting 12.8 V everywhere.

Went through the pain-in-the-sweet-meat process of pulling the starter today. Bench tested it, and it was dead. I could get it to click and hum occasionally, but never actually spinning. So, picked up a reman Denso, popped it in… With a few cuss words and a fair amount of sweat, but she turned over like normal. A little rumble and stumble getting back on idle.

All that is great right…However, I have a new issue. She starts and idles like a dream but after about 2 to 2500 RPM, she chokes out and stumbles to die if I don’t let off. Sounds like a fuel starvation issue to me. Intake side is wide open and clean. Inspected the banjo boat after torque to spec, it appears to be leaking fuel. I reused the same crush washer so I hope that is the issue. We’ll try to pick up a spare tomorrow and retry.

Any recommendations from you guys?
 
Finally had a day off to fiddle with it. Checked battery voltage across the posts and at multiple ground points, getting 12.8 V everywhere.

Went through the pain-in-the-sweet-meat process of pulling the starter today. Bench tested it, and it was dead. I could get it to click and hum occasionally, but never actually spinning. So, picked up a reman Denso, popped it in… With a few cuss words and a fair amount of sweat, but she turned over like normal. A little rumble and stumble getting back on idle.

All that is great right…However, I have a new issue. She starts and idles like a dream but after about 2 to 2500 RPM, she chokes out and stumbles to die if I don’t let off. Sounds like a fuel starvation issue to me. Intake side is wide open and clean.

Inspected the banjo boat after torque to spec, it appears to be leaking fuel.
Banjo bolt, I'll assume was the fuel dampening device. FWIW: No banjo bolt, need be removed.
Where leak?
I reused the same crush washer so I hope that is the issue.
No Gasket (crush washers), should ever be reused. But even used crush washer, if torque properly. Will ussally be fine.
Notice, there're two different gasket types.
Fuel dampeing device FSM 07 (3)a.webp

We’ll try to pick up a spare tomorrow and retry.

Any recommendations from you guys?
 
Thanks for info and advice 2001LC, and others. I’m new here but seems to be great community and resource on here.

Picked up some fresh crush washers for the fuel dampener. Worked like a charm. Starts easy, idles smooth and will rev without stumbling, alls well…for now, lol. Felt good enough to give her a bath and engine dusting.

IMG_3397.webp


IMG_3396.webp
 
Good job. Now tackle that KN air intake. They allow to much dust in intake and mess with factory design vacuum. Convert back to factory!
 
She’s primarily a daily grocery getter and occasional MTB/camping trip to North Ga mtns. But do agree the OEM filter is best
 
Went through the pain-in-the-sweet-meat process of pulling the starter today. Bench tested it, and it was dead. I could get it to click and hum occasionally, but never actually spinning. So, picked up a reman Denso, popped it in… With a few cuss words and a fair amount of sweat, but she turned over like normal. A little rumble and stumble getting back on idle.
How old is the Denso starter that you replaced?
 
How old is the Denso starter that you replaced?
Not sure exactly but it’s not old. Previous owner mentioned it as a being done sometime before I bought it at 212k miles. I’m at 233 now. Power/positive wire was rough, somewhat corroded and the wire housing was gummy. Did a quick inspection and tried to bench test and couldn’t get it to move so out it went.
 
Back
Top Bottom