Squamish-Soo-Yalakom-Poison-Churn-Farwell Trip (Aug 12-18, 2023) (1 Viewer)

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Kelowna, BC
Cruser Days - Extended Trip Report

Aug. 12, Saturday – Squamish and Soo River Campout

Great success, stunning new meeting location, saw many varied and awesome rigs, caught up with friends, many of which I have done epic trips together. The Sea to Sky up to Squamish was a joy to drive to the new Squamish venue, (maybe a porta-poti next year?). Afterwards, we went to Alex’s shop where his company customizes Sprinter style RV’s, with lots of cool overlanding technology going in to these rigs.

After that the disjointed group eventually convened and followed Franz up Hwy 99 and turned onto Sixteen Mile FSR, just past Emerald Estates, then left again up a bumpy track up to the Soo River to a preselected campsite, which was in the early stage of being prepped into to bush Rave, complete with gigantic towering speakers powered by an industrial generator.

Although initially disappointment, the group rallied and split up in all directions looking for a workable campsite alternative for the large group. The campsite finding award goes to Greg … who found us a newly constructed logging bench -- with stunning views and well away from the Rave. Later on, that night, Pete had a scary issue, which he has explained above.

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Aug. 13, Sunday – Windy Ridge Trailhead

We awoke on our mid-mountain platform to sunshine and awesome views, had some great coffee, breakfast and the extended trip group said our goodbyes and we tore off down the mountain and took the Soo FSR back to Hwy 99. The original plan was to follow last year’s route up the scenic Highline Rd high above the beautiful Anderson Lake, but the road was closed due to the Casper Creek fire and the second alternative -- the Hurley was smoked out by the Downtown Lake Fire.

The only clear route was to boot up to Pemberton, take the Duffy Rd. to Lillooet, and take the Yalakom FSR to the northwest. At Lillooet we said goodbye to Todd in his 2003 1HZ Troopy, who had to go home to repair a thorough thrashed rear spring bushing. Originally the plan was to the spend first night at Carol Lake, just before Marshal Lake, but we arranged to meet Mike up the Yalakom (bypasses the Mud Lake FSR), but it is the fastest way in. About half way up the Yalakom we stayed the night at the Beaverdam Creek rec site, which is a large level campsite, with a clear running stream and a clean long drop. We enjoyed the remote surroundings a most beautiful evening and a leisurely next morning swapping stories waiting for Mike, who arrived about noon.

Our little intrepid Cruiser convoy now consisted of 4, including:

Daryl in his rustic 1982 SOA BJ42
Glenn in his grey 1995 HDJ 81FT
Greg in his white 1994 FZJ HDJ81(Diesel)
Mike in his black 1995 FZJ80

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Aug. 13, Sunday – Windy Ridge Trailhead- continued

The Cruiser convoy continued up the Yalakom, passing a shirtless dude on a bicycle with a rat trap full of bottles and cans, who was a long way from nowhere. Rolling down the window, I asked if he was OK, and he said “I’m fine”, with a surprised look on his face, like if I asked him that question if he was in Stanley Park. I thought this strange, smiled and continued on our merry way.

At the normal Yalakom Poison junction, Daryl made a brilliant suggestion to take a trail that sweeps clockwise around Poison Mtn., a trail I have never taken. It was a great trail. Thanks Daryl! We arrived at the big of Poison-Yalakom-Mud intersection, and took the gnarly Mud Poison road over to the intersection at the top of the steep V-Hill north of Swartz Lake. Along the way we crossed a major new logging road running north south, which should be explored in the future. Turning right we headed north on the Gaspard (2800) Rd. and like the last year trip through China Head, we took time to look for the elusive Windy Ridge trailhead that was obliterated by logging 6 -8 years ago (judging by the height of the new growth). This year we planned to try to intersect the original track from the south, by taking a spur road 2 km. south of the original trailhead and the first left, heading north to intersect the original route.

Success … right on the backroads track! We nosed down into the beginning of Windy Ridge trail, but it was late in the day and after a few hours of heavy clearing we had averaged only 1 km/hour so it was obvious at that point, we would need a dedicated work trip to get through the Yodel Cabin road, even to Roaster Lake. The Yodel Cabin road continues to Black Dome road then to Empire Valley road and from there to Churn Creek.

In May 2022, a group of us we got to the cobble side slope of Porcupine Creek coming from the east Churn Creek, but arrived too late in the day to get further down.

After some discussion we went back up the sketchy loose hill (with the full sun in our eyes) and camped at newly found Windy Ridge trailhead, relived we were out of the mosquito ridden wet valley floor. That sketchy hill would be too dangerous in the wet.

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More pics

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Aug. 14, Monday- Spur Loop off Word Creek. Chilcotin-Fraser Confluence

The next morning, we got back on the Gaspard Red Mountain FSR heading north through Red Canyon and was delighted to find the gate was open! In past trips the gate has been locked requiring cutting a time-consuming bypass. We continued north and turned east onto the Main FSR through to the famous Gang Ranch, Canada’s second largest ranch after the Douglas Lake Cattle Company. The Gang Ranch is now owned by the Douglas Lake Ranch. I was surprised this time how few cattle I saw and the huge fields of corn growing in the fields. We then went to Churn Creek, the north bank camp (bigger south bank camp closed), parked on a huge sand berm by the Fraser River and had lunch

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After lunch we back tracked through the Gang ranch and took the Word Creek (2700) road and took an unmarked goat track, through the McEwen Creek washout then along a heavily treed canopy trail above McEwen Creek canyon. Eventually we came out of the dark tree canopy onto an open grassland and took a lookout trail to the Fraser River (found this in May 2022). We drove as far down as possible, but the trail was badly off camber and we were forced hike a few hundred meters to a fabulous 220-degree lookout over the Fraser. River All the time we were on the lookout for a flat spot without the diabolical low-lying cactus. Greg found a great grassy camping spot tucked off the road, just within the tree line. That evening we were entertained by swarms if Dragon Flies, scarfing up the numerous mosquitoes, flies and midges (eats anything smaller than themselves). What is so strange is that Dragonflies are usually found in wet habitats, but we were close to huge swaths of cacti just nearby in the grasslands.

Aug. 15, Tuesday - Farwell Canyon, Sheep Junction Park and Matt’s Place

In the morning we packed up and headed to Farwell Canyon and once on the FSR trying to dodge the heavily loaded logging trucks descending into the Chilcotin Canyon heading north to Hwy 20. The plan was to camp down by the raging Chilcotin River at the old Pothole Ranch, but since the takeover by the Douglas Ranch the gate is locked and Pothole Ranch site is leased to guide outfitters. Another incredible Chilcotin camp site -- bites the dust!

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We then decided to go down the Junction Sheep Range Park Trail, which overlooks the confluence of the Fraser and Chilcotin Rivers. No California Sheep to see that day. It was hot and dusty and with nowhere to camp, we headed to 100 Mile House to see the Matt. Daryl was having over heating problems, which we sorted out in Williams lake, before heading south.

We arrived at Matt’s and setup camp near his spiffy new long drop and had a great time checking all the new stuff since we were last there in May, 2020. Matt has constructed, a massive new shop, complete with a wood and metal rooms. We had dinner by the firepit and met Jess, Matt’s new friend.

Aug. 16, Wed -Matt’s Place

Next morning, we said goodbye to Mike and Daryl as they convoyed back to the Lower Mainland, with Daryl keeping close tabs on his coolant temperatures. Greg and I stayed behind to give Matt ‘a hand’ around his homestead, loaded a log on his portable saw mill and helped with some inside paneling in the wood shop. Next morning, we tried to connect with Dan in McClure, but that did not coincide, so we headed home, Greg to Abbotsford and myself to Kelowna, which apparently was on fire!

So ends another foray into the Chilcotin, still a most remote and wild area, that is close to the Lower Mainland. For those that have not travelled the Chilcotin, it is slowly being shut down and many of the incredible places we used get to are no longer accessible. If you are inclined to go – don’t wait too long.

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Return - Kelowna (McDougal Fire)

Did not impact my property, but the smoke is still bad My place is the blue dot in the south east corner.

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Great write up and pics, thanks Glenn!
What a massive drag that Farwell Canyon is now a no go. DLCC is not on my xmas card list.
 
It was a great trip. Good write up Glenn.

Count me in for the windy ridge work party!
 
Also happy you took the time to write up the trip, thanks.

Looking forward to the day I can make one these trips with you guys, I agree the Chilcotin is an amazing place to poke around.
 
Thanks for the write-up Glenn!
 
Thanks Glenn! Great write up, almost feel like I tagged along 👍
 
good job Glen! BTW is your place near South Kelowna Elementary?
 
Not too far away- I’m in upper Crawford close to the Myra Bellevue mtn bike trails.
 
Not too far away- I’m in upper Crawford close to the Myra Bellevue mtn bike trails.
I was in Kindergarten there.. lived on a farm out on Jaud Rd...
 

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