SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day

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99% sure “eco” is triggered by manifold vacuum much like the MPG sweeper gauge on 80’s/90’s BMW products.
I’m glad you left that 1% uncertainty because I suspect it’s not vacuum. It would be easier and cheaper to turn/off that light with ECU calculations than add a vacuum sensor for that purpose.
 
When coding (with Launch or TedhStream...) use a power unit (not a charger or maintainer) to ensure you don't run the battery down. An absolute must in P realm when coding. I assume the same applies to T cars.

A 75-100A PowerMax for example is what I use to code my stable.

siberian
 
When coding (with Launch or TedhStream...) use a power unit (not a charger or maintainer) to ensure you don't run the battery down. An absolute must in P realm when coding. I assume the same applies to T cars.

A 75-100A PowerMax for example is what I use to code my stable.

siberian
Exactly right. Some chargers can/will output 16+ volts, which is BAD. Also, letting the voltage fall below 12.0V is BAD. Both scenarios will brick the ECU. (Ask me how I know…)

You need a regulated ~12.5V to ~13.5V power supply.
 
I'm the opposite.
I turn it on a couple times a year to make sure it works. I drive conservatively, so it doesn't make any difference, really. It just increases (a little) the RPMs for the various shift points.
Now if we had a turbo encabulator, then OMG!
Same...I honestly don't notice a huge difference when engaged vs. when I had it engaged on my 100.
 
Exactly right. Some chargers can/will output 16+ volts, which is BAD. Also, letting the voltage fall below 12.0V is BAD. Both scenarios will brick the ECU. (Ask me how I know…)

You need a regulated ~12.5V to ~13.5V power supply.
I've been using the supply mode on the CTEK 7002.
"Supply: Converts the charger into a constant 13.6V power source (up to 7A)"

Makes me nervous every time but I have flashed the ECU 4 or 5 times now with new tunes.
 
I've been using the supply mode on the CTEK 7002.
"Supply: Converts the charger into a constant 13.6V power source (up to 7A)"

Makes me nervous every time but I have flashed the ECU 4 or 5 times now with new tunes.
That’ll be fine. Make sure to also turn everything in the car OFF for least power draw.

Edit: I didn’t catch where you said “up to 7 amps” … that’s not going to keep up…
 
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7A?????????????? I definitely hope you're not using that on your Macan. I would connect an Ammeter to your power unit to see the actual draw as well as voltage. Voltage is set for LiFePO4 on the 992C4S but is adjustable.

IMG_3099.webp


siberian
 
7A?????????????? I definitely hope you're not using that on your Macan. I would connect an Ammeter to your power unit to see the actual draw as well as voltage. Voltage is set for LiFePO4 on the 992C4S but is adjustable.
siberian
I will see what it actually draws.

Na not using it on the Macan. I don't do any coding on the Macan. The Cayman I just did minor stuff like changing the coolant temperature to be 1:1, steering wheel profile to GT3 etc..

Can you charge the battery quickly with the Powermax?
 
I will see what it actually draws.

Na not using it on the Macan. I don't do any coding on the Macan. The Cayman I just did minor stuff like changing the coolant temperature to be 1:1, steering wheel profile to GT3 etc..

Can you charge the battery quickly with the Powermax?
Wait—are you reflashing the Toyota ECUs or just making changes to the settings?
 
Make for damn sure that you have a stable 12.5 to 13.5 V for the entire duration of that reflash or you might be buying a brand new ECU. Are you flashing the ECM?
Just the ECU.
Not the ECM.

Alright time to order a Powermax lol.

I think the CTEK supply mode was keeping it stable. I will measure it when I hook it up next.
 
Sorry that's not "Red cars"; it's GUARDS RED
vs
Rosso Corsa for the "other guys".

The difference is that we drive them :rofl:

siberian
 
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