What does this mean? Or what could it elude to? It sounds like a smaller beehive is in my gearbox while in 4LO lol.
Sounds like a beehive is in my gearbox while driving in 4H.
- Thread starter ObservrActual
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If you lightly press on the transfer shift lever when it’s making that noise while driving and the noise goes away, then maybe it’s just the shifter linkage rattling. There’s a rubber bushing or two in the linkage. Maybe it dissolved.
cps432
SILVER Star
The LC is noisy. It is what it is. It's not a luxury vehicle. It's a land cruiser. But they shouldn't sound like a beehive. Yikes.
It was considered luxury at the time. Even advertised as a step up in luxury.
cps432
SILVER Star
lol
- Thread starter
- #9
Ok so I tried what you suggested, but nothing changed. However, the "Buzzing" sound completely goes away when I take my foot off the gas. If I lightly apply the gas, the "buzzing" is lighter. So basically the more/less pressure I take off of the gas makes the buzzing louder/quieter to non-existent if I take my foot off entirely.
micruz60
Unleaded Regular
Take a look underneath to see if there is anything contacting the transfer case, the wiring there (passenger side) has a connector which could be causing the buzzing, otherwise it could be related to the u-joints on the driveshaft(s).
cwwfj60
Supporting Vendor
First of all, 4 low is always louder than 2 hi. Are you wheeling a lot? The gears are doing a lot more work in 4 low thus more noise. I’m jealous if your spending significant time in 4 low 
That being said, have you made sure you have fluid in the tcase…..they can run dry for a number of reasons.
Lastly, noise under load sounds like bearing possibility, grab your rear drive shaft near each u-joints on each end and push and pull on them hard to see if they have play, do all 4 directions (12,3,6,9-o’clock). Pinion bearing (near the rear axle) have the possibility of loosening you over time.
But to reiterate, 4 low is noisier, but it also exacerbates other bearing noises in the driveline as it puts a higher load on every gear and bearing.
Video/recording might help go further
That being said, have you made sure you have fluid in the tcase…..they can run dry for a number of reasons.
Lastly, noise under load sounds like bearing possibility, grab your rear drive shaft near each u-joints on each end and push and pull on them hard to see if they have play, do all 4 directions (12,3,6,9-o’clock). Pinion bearing (near the rear axle) have the possibility of loosening you over time.
But to reiterate, 4 low is noisier, but it also exacerbates other bearing noises in the driveline as it puts a higher load on every gear and bearing.
Video/recording might help go further
Lots of possibilities here but since the sound is present in 4hi and low but not in 2hi assume 4wd related: front driveshaft joints, front diff, or t/c front output bearing. Definitely check fluid but you’d probably hear it in 2wd as well if dry.
cps432
SILVER Star
This sounds like a transfer case issue. Maybe a differential. Maybe a combination of both. If none of that has been maintainted in a long time then it's probably time to go through everything. My truck made a bunch of terrible noises when I got it. I've replaced everything except the engine. Even a brand new transmission with a fully rebuilt transfer case with new gears and bearings in both axles makes a lot of noise. What you're describing sounds like an idler shaft in the transfer case getting wonky. Maybe something going on with the clutch mechanism in the transfer case.
I bet the Outputshaft bearings are toast. Around 150k they start to get loose.
My 60 was at 300k and way overdue.
My 60 was at 300k and way overdue.
cps432
SILVER Star
Probably a combo of everything wearing out.
Can you relate the noise back to something mechanical? does it sound like rubbing or vibration (ringing). Does the sound change (in pitch or timing) based on engine rpm and/or overall speed?
do you know you are really in 4wd? Is this the sound of the gears touching but not meshing? What is your evidence you are actually engaged in 4wd?
Have you tried how different scenarios effect the noise (wheel hubs locked, wheel hubs unlocked, transmission in neutral or not, transfer case in neutral (you need to be stopped when you switch between transfer case 4H, N and 4L)? For example, locking the wheel hubs but transfer in 2wd will have the front wheels spin the front differential and drive shaft. When I do this, I can definitely hear the front differential hum.
do you know you are really in 4wd? Is this the sound of the gears touching but not meshing? What is your evidence you are actually engaged in 4wd?
Have you tried how different scenarios effect the noise (wheel hubs locked, wheel hubs unlocked, transmission in neutral or not, transfer case in neutral (you need to be stopped when you switch between transfer case 4H, N and 4L)? For example, locking the wheel hubs but transfer in 2wd will have the front wheels spin the front differential and drive shaft. When I do this, I can definitely hear the front differential hum.
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Is there an actual audio I missed?
- Thread starter
- #18
Well yall, it doesnt even really matter because weve now got a blown head gasket. Unsure if the block is intact or any other details outside of a general blown head gasket. Working on trying to get more details and a 2nd opinion.
- Thread starter
- #19
No, I didnt record any audio, so you didnt miss anything.
- Thread starter
- #20
It doesnt sound like a rubbing sound, at least to me. I guess you could describe it the "buzzing" sound, potentially, as a "vibrating" sound, sure. The sound changes depending on whether or not I am pressing on the accelerator. If I relase my foot from the gas peddle entirely, the sound completely goes away. If I apply pressure the sound can resume, and then build up more and more, depending on how much pressure I am applying.
As far as I know, the fwd is actually engaged, because when I turn the wheel over all the way, I have that "struggle" of making the car move, that is on all trucks when the 4wd is engaged. I use the term "struggle" because I cant think of how else to describe it lol. But I am sure you all know what I mean. The vehicle doesnt move as well when the FWD is on, and you have the wheel all the way to one side. So going off of this I believe the FWD is actually engaged as it should be.
The sound is present in 2h as well, just to a lesser degree. And again the "buzzing" completely goes away when I take my foot entirely off of the gas peddle.
