Sound deadening the cargo area

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Bloomer

Bloomer

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I'm sure there are some stereo enthusiasts out there that know much more about this than I ever will. Looking to build a set of drawers and plan to remove the carpeting and apply sound deadening insulation. Figured I would just use dynamat as it seems to be a popular choice, unless anyone knows of a better product.

I'm curious about thickness. I've seen dynamat advertised in thicknesses from 1/4" to 3/4". I only plan to install the dynamat in the cargo area where the carpet is removed. Any thoughts on the right thickness to use? With the carpet removed, it seems like the thicker dynamat would work fine, but curious if it adds benefit over the thinner matting and whether it presents any additional complication with installation.

Any thoughts on sound deadening products, installation tips, etc....would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
Sub'd as I am looking forward to this.

I want a set of drawers down the road. ARB or custom haven't a clue.
 
I had always had wanted to do a few of my vehicles so I researched a bunch. I finally found a sound engineer that claimed that the dynamat type product(asphalt base) really does not do much for sound deadening like keeping noise out. He also said that it is way over applied for what it's purpose is. It should be used for deadening the vibration in select panels. You can apply it in long strips in a chevron pattern on the selected panel and deaden the frequency response rather than covering the whole panel like most people I have seen do. I tested on a piece of sheet metal and using 1/4 of the product achieved the same result as full coverage. The thicker the product the more vibration you can absorb so the thicker stuff would be used where you have lots of vibration on a big panel behind maybe a big sub woofer setup or similar. You can do all of your inner door skins with the chevron method, as well as, the face where the door panel mounts. Most don't think to do the inner side of the outer door skins and the chevron method works well. For real sound deadening a closed cell foam backed material or felt works to suppress noise and does nothing for panel deadening. If one wanted to reduce road noise from the rear tires You could line the outer wheel well with a outdoor felt material using contact cement on both surfaces then molding it to the wheel well liner. Chevron the wheel well in the cabin and cover with closed cell foam backed with rubber.

I have not done the cargo area on my 100. It seems so quiet compared to my other vehicles I never bothered. I am going to line the inner wheel wells in the rear when I get the chance though. I have read many post of people spending tons of money without much change. This is a good example on the honda insight forum. Noisy cars and good info. Attempt at real sound deadening (MLV/CCF barrier) - Insight Central: Honda Insight Forum
 
@JayM that's really interesting. My carpet in the cargo area is like new, which is why I want to remove it before installing the drawers. I suspect the OEM carpet provides for a lot of sound deadening. I'm concerned with it removed, I'll experience more road noise. I don't really want to install felt lining in the wheel wells (although I've seen it in the wheel wells of newer model Chevrolet pick ups and have wondered why they did that). I may do some more research on closed cell phone material, though.

Thanks for the input!
 
Bloomer said:
@JayM that's really interesting. My carpet in the cargo area is like new, which is why I want to remove it before installing the drawers. I suspect the OEM carpet provides for a lot of sound deadening. I'm concerned with it removed, I'll experience more road noise. I don't really want to install felt lining in the wheel wells (although I've seen it in the wheel wells of newer model Chevrolet pick ups and have wondered why they did that). I may do some more research on closed cell phone material, though.

Thanks for the input!
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You could pull the carpet chevron the floor (dynamat) and cover with closed cell foam with a rubber backing then install. Leave the carpet in and add a rubber sheet and install.
 
JayM said:
I had always had wanted to do a few of my vehicles so I researched a bunch. I finally found a sound engineer that claimed that the dynamat type product(asphalt base) really does not do much for sound deadening like keeping noise out. He also said that it is way over applied for what it's purpose is. It should be used for deadening the vibration in select panels. You can apply it in long strips in a chevron pattern on the selected panel and deaden the frequency response rather than covering the whole panel like most people I have seen do. I tested on a piece of sheet metal and using 1/4 of the product achieved the same result as full coverage. The thicker the product the more vibration you can absorb so the thicker stuff would be used where you have lots of vibration on a big panel behind maybe a big sub woofer setup or similar. You can do all of your inner door skins with the chevron method, as well as, the face where the door panel mounts. Most don't think to do the inner side of the outer door skins and the chevron method works well. For real sound deadening a closed cell foam backed material or felt works to suppress noise and does nothing for panel deadening. If one wanted to reduce road noise from the rear tires You could line the outer wheel well with a outdoor felt material using contact cement on both surfaces then molding it to the wheel well liner. Chevron the wheel well in the cabin and cover with closed cell foam backed with rubber.

I have not done the cargo area on my 100. It seems so quiet compared to my other vehicles I never bothered. I am going to line the inner wheel wells in the rear when I get the chance though. I have read many post of people spending tons of money without much change. This is a good example on the honda insight forum. Noisy cars and good info. Attempt at real sound deadening (MLV/CCF barrier) - Insight Central: Honda Insight Forum
Click to expand...
@Bloomer what JayM said is correct! Most people don't know what they are doing when ordering 100s of $$ worth of dynamat and end up just waisting it with little results!
I've put a ton of that stuff on all kinds of cars! When they let me do "just what I needed to do" the cost was lower than when I did "what they wanted me doing"!
You DONT need to cover every inch of metal, instead you cover large blank areas where there's no folds or ridges. The main goal is to stop large panels from vibrating.
Then you go over with another material to actually quiet it down.
I've used mostly 3/8 underpadding liner. Actually that's what I did on the back of my 100! Scraps of dynamat, under padding over the carpet, the floor mat on top and then the drawers.
You could glue the liner under (normally what I do) but I was trying to get it going quick! I will glue some on the wheel wells and inside those cavities on each side.
As far as thickness of the material I have only seen dynamat about 1/8" thick! There are cheaper brands out there as well! No matter what brand you get you have to ROLL it in place. Cut a piece, place it loosely by hand and roll from one end to the other, basically squishing it in place kind of like a sticker on the window with a c card. It will flatten out on plain spaces and mold to curves n ridges too.
Amazon sells a box with 9 sheets (36sq ft) for $145 and a good little roller as well. That's a very good deal and plenty for the 100!
Some pics, again I just used some leftover scraps I had laying around and I did leave the carpet in place. If you remove it your drawers will be too low and drag on the tailgate.
I also used two sticks about 3/8" along the very edge of the carpet to support the drawers, you can see in the last pics.
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@Get outside thanks for replying and offering the advice. You definitely fall into the category of knowing more about this than I ever will. Appreciate the comment on clearance for the drawer. I've decided to make my own set so will figure that into the build. Also appreciate the comment on the Amazon kit. I'll check that out. Do you have any thoughts on closed cell foam padding for insulation purposes? The OEM carpet in the cargo area is like new, I replaced it shortly after purchasing this 100. I'd like to keep it in storage and in good condition in case I ever remove these drawers.

Thanks again.
 
Follow @JayM and @Get outside's advice.

I went whole hog on Dynamat and Dynaliner if only to try it out and b/c I got them so cheap. I started with the rear cargo area first and noticed a significant difference (though that's debatable if you read real-world tests). I rode around for a few days with the rear seats and cargo area completely removed until I could finish it and felt it really reduced any unwanted noises.

As already suggested, and if I had to do it again, I'd go w/ a minimum thickness while strategically placing strips on panels as described in the posts above. I'd also keep the carpet since that does add an extra measure of sound proofing. Additionally, once you add the trim pieces back on they will fit better if there is not too much height added under the carpet. Good luck.

dynamat-land-cruiser-jpg.718809
 
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@Get outside Paulo...is there a specific brand of underpadding liner you recommend? Think I'm going to go with the Dynamat/Dynaliner, underpad lining, and rubber mat if I can find one. May double up the underpad lining for the drawers to rest on. I'm in a pretty rural area so feel certain I'll have to order from the internet. Is there a specific product name for the underpad lining? Thanks!
 
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I went with MLV/CCF for all four doors, tailgate and from the rear seats back. Haven't run under the front seats into the wheel wells yet. Made a difference.

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Hey John I got your message earlier! Was running around the house getting little people ready for bed so decided to just post here instead of texting and bugging you this late!
Anyways...
Just for a bit of perspective, the restoration shop I used to work at sells dynamat as a 3 sheet bundle (18"x33"each) for $70! The box on Amazon has 9 of those for $145 Prime price, maybe tax depending where it's being shipped from. Again it's a very good deal and it's enough to do the back cargo area AND all 4 doors! All you need are sections/strips of it and it will quiet it down a bunch! It's pretty easy to install as well!

As far as the padding you can call an upholstery supply/fabric store and they most likely will have it and it's kind of cheap too, about $9 bucks a yard. Search for "JUTE" carpet padding. Some places sell it according to the thickness others to the square ft weight. You can find it on eBay for sure but you'll be better off calling someone local to you, there are two Keyston Bros places in Texas that I know of., near Dallas and near Houston, they sell a lot of stuff but smaller companies will have it too.

I would say if you are willing to spend between $200-$250 on this project then you would be able to get the dynamat and roller from Amazon, get the cargo area plus your doors lined with it, as well as getting the jute padding to line the cargo floor and wheel wells!

Since you want to remove your carpet you will have to double down on the padding to compensate. Specially when adding the drawers over it! See if the place you get it from have the thicker option (1/2" or 3/4" I think). Just know it's gonna be a bit harder to cut the thicker stuff!

If you want to glue it down you can buy some contact cement (upholstery glue) + a $20 harbor freight spray gun w cup and be done for the count!

The closed cell foam mentioned earlier in the tread is not what you want to do here. It will do it's job for the right application! That's what music recording studios use inside each room! They have different size triangle panels on every wall corner and some flat ones on the big flat walls and they absorb the sound vibrations letting the mics capture all the music.
Thing is, these are usually 2-3 inches thick! Kind of hard to stuff that in our 100s!
Best of luck, any questions I'm here!
 
devildogcruiser25 said:
Why don't you skip the dynamat and just put a weathertech mat on top of the carpet?
Click to expand...

Thought about that. I've seen others add the sound deadening material and have always wanted to try it to see how well it works. Wish I'd considered this when I had the interior removed to replace the carpet a few years ago. The carpet is in like new condition. Since I'm planning on removing it anyway to add the sound deadening material, thought I'd just store it to preserve in case I ever remove the drawers. Yeah, I know, more work than probably needed.
 
bctlex said:
Does this makes a difference? Or you get what you paid for? The price is a fraction of dynamat, and Lowe's is only 5 min away from my house.
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Peel & Seal is an asphalt based product. Dynamat and other specific sound deadeners are made from butyl. If you read my link in the beginning of the thread it explains everything you need to know about sound Deadening and why the cheaper alternatives aren't always the best.
 
JayM said:
I had always had wanted to do a few of my vehicles so I researched a bunch. I finally found a sound engineer that claimed that the dynamat type product(asphalt base) really does not do much for sound deadening like keeping noise out. He also said that it is way over applied for what it's purpose is. It should be used for deadening the vibration in select panels. You can apply it in long strips in a chevron pattern on the selected panel and deaden the frequency response rather than covering the whole panel like most people I have seen do. I tested on a piece of sheet metal and using 1/4 of the product achieved the same result as full coverage. The thicker the product the more vibration you can absorb so the thicker stuff would be used where you have lots of vibration on a big panel behind maybe a big sub woofer setup or similar. You can do all of your inner door skins with the chevron method, as well as, the face where the door panel mounts. Most don't think to do the inner side of the outer door skins and the chevron method works well. For real sound deadening a closed cell foam backed material or felt works to suppress noise and does nothing for panel deadening. If one wanted to reduce road noise from the rear tires You could line the outer wheel well with a outdoor felt material using contact cement on both surfaces then molding it to the wheel well liner. Chevron the wheel well in the cabin and cover with closed cell foam backed with rubber.

I have not done the cargo area on my 100. It seems so quiet compared to my other vehicles I never bothered. I am going to line the inner wheel wells in the rear when I get the chance though. I have read many post of people spending tons of money without much change. This is a good example on the honda insight forum. Noisy cars and good info. Attempt at real sound deadening (MLV/CCF barrier) - Insight Central: Honda Insight Forum
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This is dead on. Also I noticed on all the installs posted none of them put deader on the outer wheel well. The echo in that hollow spot creates a lot or resonating. You should throw some in there.

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Bloomer said:
I'm sure there are some stereo enthusiasts out there that know much more about this than I ever will. Looking to build a set of drawers and plan to remove the carpeting and apply sound deadening insulation. Figured I would just use dynamat as it seems to be a popular choice, unless anyone knows of a better product.

I'm curious about thickness. I've seen dynamat advertised in thicknesses from 1/4" to 3/4". I only plan to install the dynamat in the cargo area where the carpet is removed. Any thoughts on the right thickness to use? With the carpet removed, it seems like the thicker dynamat would work fine, but curious if it adds benefit over the thinner matting and whether it presents any additional complication with installation.

Any thoughts on sound deadening products, installation tips, etc....would be appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...

If you search QuietCrap here on Ih8mud.. there are a few installs and discussions about sound deadeners.
 
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