SOS help needed diagnosing 1985 Surf 2.4L glow plug circuit issue

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Aug 28, 2017
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2
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Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Last March, in a moment of extreme stupidity and sleep deprivation, while replacing the battery in my '85 Surf (2L-T) I accidentally connected the positive cable to the negative terminal and the negative cable to the positive terminal. dumbest thing I've ever done with a car. Several fuses popped, which I replaced. However, now when the key is turned in the ignition the dashboard glow-plug lamp doesn't come on and the glow plug relays don't click on. The truck will crank but not start. I've confirmed that power is getting to the relays and to the glow plug timer (pin #7 is getting 11.5v). Does this mean that the timer itself has been fried, or is there another component that could be creating the issue? I actually opened the timer case and looked at the circuit board and there's no visible damage, leaking capacitor, burnt or disconnected connections, etc. Is it possible that the crossed cables screwed up the fuel cut solenoid at the fuel pump and now there's no fuel delivery?

I've studied this thread (2lt super glow wiring - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2lt-super-glow-wiring.1323302/) and it sounds like it could be the current sensor(?).

FWIW last year out of desperation I bought a modernized replacement glow plug timer for a 3B motor from Revive Your Rig (Products | Revive Your Rig - https://www.reviveyourrig.com/shop-parts). My hope was that, if it's the timer, I could potentially rewire the plug going into the timer to work since the 3B and 2LT timers both have a 10-pin layout, the wires are just laid out differently. Has anyone been able to make this work?

I realize the standard response is to just Wilson switch this problem away but for various reasons I'd really like to retain the Superglow function and return things to the way they were prior to this screw-up....

Thanks in advance for any/all info anyone can provide...
 
Delete the timer and go to a switch. It's better anyway. If you wire it up correctly the switch will only work with the key in, and the dash light will come on with the switch.

More reliable, simpler, uses your factory relay and wiring.

Superglow isn't worth the extra headache and if it is subzero you should be running a block heater anyway.
 
Last March, in a moment of extreme stupidity and sleep deprivation, while replacing the battery in my '85 Surf (2L-T) I accidentally connected the positive cable to the negative terminal and the negative cable to the positive terminal. dumbest thing I've ever done with a car. Several fuses popped, which I replaced. However, now when the key is turned in the ignition the dashboard glow-plug lamp doesn't come on and the glow plug relays don't click on. The truck will crank but not start. I've confirmed that power is getting to the relays and to the glow plug timer (pin #7 is getting 11.5v). Does this mean that the timer itself has been fried, or is there another component that could be creating the issue? I actually opened the timer case and looked at the circuit board and there's no visible damage, leaking capacitor, burnt or disconnected connections, etc. Is it possible that the crossed cables screwed up the fuel cut solenoid at the fuel pump and now there's no fuel delivery?

I've studied this thread (2lt super glow wiring - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2lt-super-glow-wiring.1323302/) and it sounds like it could be the current sensor(?).

FWIW last year out of desperation I bought a modernized replacement glow plug timer for a 3B motor from Revive Your Rig (Products | Revive Your Rig - https://www.reviveyourrig.com/shop-parts). My hope was that, if it's the timer, I could potentially rewire the plug going into the timer to work since the 3B and 2LT timers both have a 10-pin layout, the wires are just laid out differently. Has anyone been able to make this work?

I realize the standard response is to just Wilson switch this problem away but for various reasons I'd really like to retain the Superglow function and return things to the way they were prior to this screw-up....

Thanks in advance for any/all info anyone can provide..
load test power and ground with an Incandescent Bulb/load If all the inputs to the timer are good and there is no power output to the relay then the timer is bad. Take the case apart and see if you can see anything burned up, there are some places willing to repair electronics, one of the speedometer repair places might take it on. If that doesn't work out and you can't find a used one Mercedes controller works well, you can use the 6cyl system on a 4cyl.
 
Thank you to everyone who replied; managed to figure out what was going on and get it back to normal. put the power probe to the in-cab 7.5a ignition fuse and got a weird result, voltage was there but lower than it should be. changed it and it's all good now. thanks again
 
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