Someone made a mess of this vacuum pump
- Thread starter DillonOnTheCoast
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- Thread starter
- #22
Holy crap, I think they used the wrong size shaft on that alternator. I can't get the pump to mate up.
I'll be posting pics & measurements shortly
I'll be posting pics & measurements shortly
- Thread starter
- #23
I don't think the pump is mating up to the alternator correctly. I think that shaft is too long. I talked to the people that butchered this thing and confirmed that they replaced the shaft with the one from the donor alternator so the possibility of a mistake here definitely exists.
Please see the photos below - there is a gap between the pump & alternator where I believe should be none. There is an o-ring (part #110 in the diagram from post #14) flopping around loose in that gap, obviously not doing its job.
I measured the length of the shaft and the pump and I believe the shaft is too long. It is extending ~1 7/8" from the mating surface on the alternator. It feels like the pump is bumping up against the end of the shaft.
I know this is a long-shot but if anyone has an early 2H alternator (1983 or earlier I believe) then I would love to know how far out the shaft should extend.
Please see the photos below - there is a gap between the pump & alternator where I believe should be none. There is an o-ring (part #110 in the diagram from post #14) flopping around loose in that gap, obviously not doing its job.
I measured the length of the shaft and the pump and I believe the shaft is too long. It is extending ~1 7/8" from the mating surface on the alternator. It feels like the pump is bumping up against the end of the shaft.
I know this is a long-shot but if anyone has an early 2H alternator (1983 or earlier I believe) then I would love to know how far out the shaft should extend.
- Thread starter
- #25
It doesn't make sense that there would be. I could go back to the shop that did this and raise hell but I don't think they are capable of sorting it out. They have the old shaft so I could go over there and retrieve that. Do you think it could be swapped into my FrankenAlternator or are there other parts that the shaft must match?
Otherwise I'm looking at buying another alternator that works with my pump or possibly getting the newer style pump if it fits this alternator. I'd rather not look for a pump as I know this one is freshly rebuilt.
Otherwise I'm looking at buying another alternator that works with my pump or possibly getting the newer style pump if it fits this alternator. I'd rather not look for a pump as I know this one is freshly rebuilt.
common enough practice, the older pump is a coarse spline which never wear out and the newer is the fine spline that strip.
considering that the new vacumm pump is $1400 from Toyota a retrofit older version makes $$$ sense.
a pump is a pump, put new O rings in and call it a day.
considering that the new vacumm pump is $1400 from Toyota a retrofit older version makes $$$ sense.
a pump is a pump, put new O rings in and call it a day.
- Thread starter
- #27
I don't understand what you're saying. Are you recommending a 1/4" thick o-ring to fill that gap? 
- Thread starter
- #28
I called the shop and they swore up and down that they used the exact same size shaft/rotor as my original one (which they ground up and rendered useless), so I took the alt & pump out of the vehicle and managed to get them together (no gap!) on my "workbench" (a piece of cardboard on the ground).
Along the way I found the bolts on the alternator were not even hand-tight and the reservoir was flopping around loose so those yokels aren't off the hook. I guess it's a good thing that I had to take it apart and put it back in or I'd have never found these issues 'till it was too late.
We'll see it if works when I put it back together ...
p.s. I can see no way humanly possible to remove this thing from the bottom so I got it out by removing the vac canister & coolant reservoir and taking it out from the top.
Along the way I found the bolts on the alternator were not even hand-tight and the reservoir was flopping around loose so those yokels aren't off the hook. I guess it's a good thing that I had to take it apart and put it back in or I'd have never found these issues 'till it was too late.
We'll see it if works when I put it back together ...
p.s. I can see no way humanly possible to remove this thing from the bottom so I got it out by removing the vac canister & coolant reservoir and taking it out from the top.
- Thread starter
- #30
I tried several times to find another 12v 2H alt but they are difficult to come by here in the states. Also pricey. One of the cruiser shops that work on Diesels just said "Hah, good luck."
I still haven't seen my alternator work yet. For all I know the innards are bungled too. If that's the case, I could probably choose another alternator shop to try and fix it.
As for an all-out replacement, I might have to import one from oz.
ALTERNATOR & VACUUM PUMP 2H 8510- Buy ALTERNATOR & VACUUM PUMP 2H 8510- 80A from Roodogs 4WD Spares
This is the only one I've been able to find. It doesn't look like mine though so I don't know if it would match my brackets & fittings.
I still haven't seen my alternator work yet. For all I know the innards are bungled too. If that's the case, I could probably choose another alternator shop to try and fix it.
As for an all-out replacement, I might have to import one from oz.
ALTERNATOR & VACUUM PUMP 2H 8510- Buy ALTERNATOR & VACUUM PUMP 2H 8510- 80A from Roodogs 4WD Spares
This is the only one I've been able to find. It doesn't look like mine though so I don't know if it would match my brackets & fittings.
These aftermarket ones are a newer design. THis ebay ad has some dimensions and is $100 cheaper. Not sure if he does o/seas though.
There is a lot of 2H in oz ,so they have a good idea of what fits
http://vi.ebaydesc.com.au/ws/eBayIS...sie&category=33573&bv=msie&nv=2&sd=3&caz.html
There is a lot of 2H in oz ,so they have a good idea of what fits
http://vi.ebaydesc.com.au/ws/eBayIS...sie&category=33573&bv=msie&nv=2&sd=3&caz.html
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- Thread starter
- #32
Yesterday I got it back together and went for a test drive. No oil leaks, no brake warning lights and it no longer sounds like a cow with a didgeridoo.
Key points:
1) There is really no reason to open up the vacuum pump and rebuild it. Mine was working fine before that shop opened it up.
2) If you do open it up, make sure you put the blades back in with the rounded edge out.
3) If you have the older style alt / pump, there is no groove between the pump and alternator for an o-ring but you should have one there anyway. I believe this was the source of my vacuum leak.
4) It is much much easier to mate the pump to the alternator on the bench, especially when keeping that o-ring in place.
5) a 21mm socket works in place of a press to force the oil seal back into the nose of the pump.
6) a 21mm crescent wrench (i.e. spanner for you multicultural types) works great to pop the old seal out.
Key points:
1) There is really no reason to open up the vacuum pump and rebuild it. Mine was working fine before that shop opened it up.
2) If you do open it up, make sure you put the blades back in with the rounded edge out.
3) If you have the older style alt / pump, there is no groove between the pump and alternator for an o-ring but you should have one there anyway. I believe this was the source of my vacuum leak.
4) It is much much easier to mate the pump to the alternator on the bench, especially when keeping that o-ring in place.
5) a 21mm socket works in place of a press to force the oil seal back into the nose of the pump.
6) a 21mm crescent wrench (i.e. spanner for you multicultural types) works great to pop the old seal out.
- Thread starter
- #33
I just thought I'd update this thread with my o-ring experience since the alternator was bungled and I had to take it apart again (destroying the o-ring).
The o-ring between the vacuum pump and alternator is depicted in this SOR diagram as #110:
Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 020 Land Cruiser Alternator & Starter
Nobody sells that o-ring individually. SOR only has it as part of a rebuild kit. I ended up buying a bunch of o-rings on Amazon. The largest one I bought, 2-1/4" OD, 3/32" width was just barely large enough. 2-3/8" would probably be a better fit.
O-Ring -137 BN70 (2-1/16 ID X 2-1/4 OD X 3/32 W) Nitrile 70A (Pack of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
The o-ring between the vacuum pump and alternator is depicted in this SOR diagram as #110:
Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 020 Land Cruiser Alternator & Starter
Nobody sells that o-ring individually. SOR only has it as part of a rebuild kit. I ended up buying a bunch of o-rings on Amazon. The largest one I bought, 2-1/4" OD, 3/32" width was just barely large enough. 2-3/8" would probably be a better fit.
O-Ring -137 BN70 (2-1/16 ID X 2-1/4 OD X 3/32 W) Nitrile 70A (Pack of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific