SOLVED - Poor Fuse Contact--- ABS Codes, No Brake Lights, Can't Shift Out Of Park.

[kmad86]

I just bought a 2000 LX470 with some issues.

Currently, I have to shift lock override to get it into gear, also I have no brake lights but I have rear running lights and blinkers. Fuses check good. Bought a brake light switch and just unplugged old and plugged it in to test, no help.

I hooked up techstream and got 8 codes (P1520, C0205, C1207, C1223, C1224, C1241, C1246, and C1340.). I documented them and wiped codes. Now, all I can get to come up after driving around are C1223 ABS Control System Malfunction and C1246 Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor. (edit, after a little while all the codes come back). I unhooked the pressure sensor just to see, and the code still comes up and still no brakes or anything. I believe I have successfully removed any aftermarket equipment at this point as well as inspected most of the wiring that I can. I cut their spliced in trailer wiring they had done. Worth mentioning that I have an 07 as well. I did notice on the trailer wire where they spliced on this 00, my 07 has 2 wires going to a connector. On this 00, it seems like they cut the connector to splice in, but there are 4 wires there. Green/Yellow, Green/Gray x2, White black stripe with gray.

Any suggestions? ABS, Skid Module symptom?

I unplugged what I think is the pressure sensor and measured the voltage of the two pins and got 5V and the other never changed even when applying brake (third ground).On my 07, I checked the same on it and got the exact same result on voltage. However, even unplugging that pressure sensor harness pops up dash lights on my 07, but it doesn't lock me out of shifting.

What faults exactly lockout shift?


SOLVED:


I took nearly all of the plastic out of this one to hunt down my issue. Come to find out.... It was the Stop fuse.. BUT, when I was testing the fuse and for voltage at the fuse, it was always testing fine because I was slightly touching it and it was making contact. The STOP fuse socket on the LX was I guess stretched out just enough where it would test when I was touching it, but lose contact when I wouldn't. EXCEPT when I was testing the Stop Light Switch, I was getting 12V during my tests. I went back again and was testing my points and started just wiggling and saw my voltage drop. Bent fuse slightly, good to go.

Cliffs: WIGGLE YOUR FUSES WHILE TESTING VOLTAGE.

 

[2001LC]

>Good idea to cross check google with FSM<

I'd start with C0205, which google shows as LF wheel speed sensor. This one should be easy, test and fix.

I just had issue with a trailer brake. Installer cut a factory wire, and just left it loose with wire end exposed. 10 years later, subsequent work under dash, move the wire. That wire, then touch metal and shorted. So any aftermarket wiring and any factory wire changes, is suspect. So, focus on, anywhere you find aftermarket wiring.

You may also have issue in center console. Sugary Spillage, from open cups in cup holders and such. Gets into switches. This can result in issue.

Check wires under rear 1/4 area. You'll see wire housing coming out body, and bunces of wire housing blocks. On both side of spare tire. One bunch on RH side, holes in exhaust can cook them. Also look into each wire housing block, for oxidation, corrosion and such. That, indicates water enter past seals.

Also look for signs of current or past water leaks around windshield, getting into (foot well) LH and or RH junction boxes.

Look for rodent chews on wires.

Check bulbs.

Work form brake light pedal SW, back.

You've not mentioned any starting issue, so PNP is likely okay
No braking issues reported. So many of your Brake DTC, are just incidentally. As CPU shuts down ABS, when it sees most any other DTC.

 

[kmad86]

>Good idea to cross check google with FSM<

I'd start with C0205, which google shows as LF wheel speed sensor. This one should be easy, test and fix.

I just had issue with a trailer brake. Installer cut a factory wire, and just left it loose with wire end exposed. 10 years later, subsequent work under dash, move the wire. That wire, then touch metal and shorted. So any aftermarket wiring and any factory wire changes, is suspect. So, focus on, anywhere you find aftermarket wiring.

You may also have issue in center console. Sugary Spillage, from open cups in cup holders and such. Gets into switches. This can result in issue.

Check wires under rear 1/4 area. You'll see wire housing coming out body, and bunces of wire housing blocks. On both side of spare tire. One bunch on RH side, holes in exhaust can cook them. Also look into each wire housing block, for oxidation, corrosion and such. That, indicates water enter past seals.

Also look for signs of current or past water leaks around windshield, getting into (foot well) LH and or RH junction boxes.

Look for rodent chews on wires.

Check bulbs.

Work form brake light pedal SW, back.

You've not mentioned any starting issue, so PNP is likely okay
No braking issues reported. So many of your Brake DTC, are just incidentally. As CPU shuts down ABS, when it sees most any other DTC.

It starts and drives fine, has a stripped left wheel hub/axle issue so it only drives in diff lock right now but different issue that I didn't want to attack till I got this electrical gremlin fixed. It stops fine.

I have taken all of the panels off of the back interior to verify no vampire taps anywhere and while I was there I did disconnect each harness of the back lights to see if maybe there was some ground out/pinched wire and tested everything with a battery reset each time. Always stayed the same. If I unplugged say the hatch harness so it wasn't connected, that shouldn't shift lock me out, should it?

Another thing worth mentioning that I did find last night was that they have put some terrible LED lights in the headlights and they don't have the back seal covers sealed, I will unplug those and replace with correct H1's later, but this shouldn't affect rear brake circuit I wouldn't think.

Good call on the wire housing blocks and seals, I need to just disconnect all underneath and look for corrosion.

Amazingly this car is so clean underneath for 370,000 miles. It's never seen salt a day in it's life it looks like.

 

[2001LC]

It starts and drives fine, has a stripped left wheel hub/axle issue so it only drives in diff lock right now but different issue that I didn't want to attack till I got this electrical gremlin fixed. It stops fine.

Hub flange, and or axle splines may be stripped out. Or snap ring may have popped off and axle pulling out of hub flange. In any event. If that wheel speed sensors test as good. Issue can be a damage tone ring. Or even that axle not engaging hub flange, resulting in wheel turn and different speed.

Also: When wheel bearings, improperly serviced. Wheel bearing can be very loose. Wheel hub then wobbles. Tone ring 1) does ride at even distance form wheel speed sensors. 2) Tone ring may even hit the wheel speed sensors, damaging it.

Improperly serviced wheel hub. Also includes replace brake rotor. All to often, guys beat on wheel hub and or tone ring, with steel hammer. Damaging tone ring, by beating. Sometimes a file can restore. Sometimes wheel hub needs to be replaced.

Working DTC, one by one. Starting here. Get one more out of the way.

I have taken all of the panels off of the back interior to verify no vampire taps anywhere and while I was there I did disconnect each harness of the back lights to see if maybe there was some ground out/pinched wire and tested everything with a battery reset each time. Always stayed the same. If I unplugged say the hatch harness so it wasn't connected, that shouldn't shift lock me out, should it?

I don't "think" it would.

Where I've found issue, when trail brake control added. Is under knee molding/dash, behind driver side RH knee molding. Removing knee molding and more behind it. Look close for any factory wire cut or spliced into.

Another thing worth mentioning that I did find last night was that they have put some terrible LED lights in the headlights and they don't have the back seal covers sealed, I will unplug those and replace with correct H1's later, but this shouldn't affect rear brake circuit I wouldn't think.

I don't think they would. But again correct all aftermarket junk. I've had one it took 3 days to pull all aftermarket junk. Some are depot or dealership pre purchase. Other's are installed later. In this one, I got 3 boxes filled up, with aftermarket wires I pulled.

I hate all this junk. I pull all from every restore project I do. Then work through DTC, in most cases.

Good call on the wire housing blocks and seals, I need to just disconnect all underneath and look for corrosion.

For sure. Look into each wire housing block. Be a very good time, to check that power from brake light circuit, is making it the rear.

Amazingly this car is so clean underneath for 370,000 miles. It's never seen salt a day in it's life it looks like.

Nice. I Love a clean undercarriage.

 

[kmad86]

Where I've found issue, when trail brake control added. Is under knee molding/dash, behind driver side RH knee molding. Removing knee molding and more behind it. Look close for any factory wire cut or spliced into.

I don't think they would. But again correct all aftermarket junk. I've had one it took 3 days to pull all aftermarket junk. Some are depot or dealership pre purchase. Other's are installed later. In this one, I got 3 boxes filled up, with aftermarket wires I pulled.

I hate all this junk. I pull all from every restore project I do. Then work through DTC, in most cases.

It feels good to rid of all that junk and just get things back stock, my first move everytime.


I looked in that area for a brake controller but didn't see one. I haven't taken the knee panel fully off, but now I want to dive into that and check. I was curious if there could be in internal fault on ABS Skid module that could cause this issue also, I wondered if unplugging the module completely in a normally running vehicle would shift lockout? I suppose I can try on my 07.

Few more experiments to attempt.



Also that wheel hub is completely stripped, the axle shaft is sticking out flush to the end of the hub. For a moment I considered that was an issue with that left wheel sensor code initially, but then I was still having issues when resetting codes in techstream and then rerunning before the car had even moved or engaged in park, hit brake, anything.

 

[kmad86]

Any idea if these crimps are factory in the clear tubes? Also, behind mirror/rear window controls was an unplugged wire I have no idea where it goes.

 

[2001LC]

Looks factory.

Wire harnesses, are manufactured for various global configurations on 100 & 105 series. Resulting in unused wire housing blocks. Like rear locker SW, when only on 98-99LC. 98-07 LC, have AHC wires. But was only option in 06-07LC. Some 100 series outside USA, have vacuum assist brakes, rather than electrical booster motor. So we always find unused wire housing blocks.

The white staining, on clear wire covers. May be concerning. May be nothing. But, could be sign of water entered at some time, drying leaving behind minerals.

Look for any fuse, stuck and or with oxidation. Oxidation is very often a sign of water entry. Over time as area gets wet and dries repeatedly. Minerals/oxidation builds up. Water entry into to dash & junction boxes. Is almost always, from windshield leaks. I've only see windshield leaks, when windshield replace installed.

 

[kmad86]

Looks factory.

Wire harnesses, are manufactured for various global configurations on 100 & 105 series. Resulting in unused wire housing blocks. Like rear locker SW, when only on 98-99LC. 98-07 LC, have AHC wires. But was only option in 06-07LC. Some 100 series outside USA, have vacuum assist brakes, rather than electrical booster motor. So we always find unused wire housing blocks.

The white staining, on clear wire covers. May be concerning. May be nothing. But, could be sign of water entered at some time, drying leaving behind minerals.

Look for any fuse, stuck and or with oxidation. Oxidation is very often a sign of water entry. Over time as area gets wet and dries repeatedly. Minerals/oxidation builds up. Water entry into to dash & junction boxes. Is almost always, from windshield leaks. I've only see windshield leaks, when windshield replace installed.

That white staining is old electrical tape that was over that, the actual crimps are still bright copper.

Could you give this a quick glance and give your thought? Is this saying that the stop light, abs, and all goes through the trailer connector?

Why I ask is because on my 07, there's a factory connector that isn't connected to for what I believe is trailer, but on this one, it's like they cut it off and spliced into for a 4 pin trailer plug that removed. I'm wondering if these 4 wires I have that were spliced into by their junk wiring is where my problem lies (right by spare).

1998.1 - 2002.7 | Electrical Wiring Diagram | OVERALL ELECTRICAL WI...

Comprehensive information on 1998.1 - 2002.7 in the Electrical Wiring Diagram OVERALL ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAM [RHD] Stop Light section for the LC100 servic...

lc100e.github.io

 

[kmad86]

The other side of those wires is all factory side I believe, but I have a concern that maybe something here isn’t right.

I'm not able to find the actual 2000 model wiring diagram that might clear up to show the Green/Black, Green/Yellow, White/Black wires.

 

[2001LC]

I'm really not the one, to ask to read wire diagrams.

I see what looks exhaust hanger, so assume this is RH rear 1/4. IIRC, trailer wire housing block on LH side. It is on 03-07.

I don't have any 98-02, here to compare with. Root around and or ask someone to post picture of their 98-2002.

 

[jerryb]

no one said the park neutral position sensor? sheesh.

 

[kmad86]

I'm really not the one, to ask to read wire diagrams.

I see what looks exhaust hanger, so assume this is RH rear 1/4. IIRC, trailer wire housing block on LH side. It is on 03-07.

I don't have any 98-02, here to compare with. Root around and or ask someone to post picture of their 98-2002.

Yeah this is right by where spare normally is.

 

[kmad86]

SOLVED:

I took nearly all of the plastic out of this one to hunt down my issue. Come to find out.... It was the Stop fuse.. BUT, when I was testing the fuse and for voltage at the fuse, it was always testing fine because I was slightly touching it and it was making contact. The STOP fuse socket on the LX was I guess stretched out just enough where it would test when I was touching it, but lose contact when I wouldn't. EXCEPT when I was testing the Stop Light Switch, I was getting 12V during my tests. I went back again and was testing my points and started just wiggling and saw my voltage drop. Bent fuse slightly, good to go.

Cliffs: WIGGLE YOUR FUSES WHILE TESTING VOLTAGE.