So I did it Aussie Locker...

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Nov 16, 2002
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Ok well i finally did it. I ordered my first locker. Wasnt bad. 266. Including tax and shipping. Cant wait to put it in and see how it works.
 
Right Awn. It's a pretty good bang for the buck. And it's really stupid simple to put in. No set up, just slap it and go. A lot people like to hate on the lunchbox lockers; I say fawk em, we can't all be made of chedder.:flipoff2: Plus, after a while you can throw it in the front and weld the rear.
Cheers,
N
 
Actually im gonna throw the first one in the front. then buy another and put it in the rear.
As i am swapping my axel for a 78 with the power disc brakes so b4 i install the axel i think that would be the best time to install it.
 
put it in the back, and you "may" not see a need for one in front...

I ran an Auburn LS front and open rear for a year....and it made no difference. Yeah, Auburns suck anyways, but I thought it would help SOME....

I was wrong....again.... ;)
 
Right now i am running 35 inch ssrs with a 4 inch lift. And pretty much stock drive train. I have been experiencing bad wheel spin on simple things like when i try and climb some rocks (nothing that big) the front tires dont want to claw their way. I figure if i put it in the front then sell some more parts i could afford to put another in the rear so then i wont have any issues.

"A front installation will usually yield the greatest improvement in off-road capability. This is due to the general requirement of increased in traction under hill climbing or rock crawling. Under full climbing conditions, due to the angle of the vehicle, the rear wheels carry a much greater weight (weight transfer) and therefore, the front carries less weight and tends to break traction very easily. Once one front wheel starts to spin the other wheel stops turning and the whole front diff ceases to provide traction. At this point the load is transferred to the rear diff as if the vehicle was a 2WD and due to the increased load the rear wheels tend to spin and the vehicle stops. If you can stop the front wheel from spinning you have solved the traction problem. In addition to the traction performance a front installation does not introduce any changes in handling characteristics. " from aussie lockers page
 
I will argue that quote from Aussie ALL day...

With a front lock/rear open situation, you'll get the front over allright...then the back will refuse to follow cause it's open.

With a front open/rear lock, the rear will PUSH the front up almost as much as a locked front will pull...and then the locked rear will follow.


Take your rig into the street, leave it in neutral...now PULL it down the street. Next, PUSH it. Bet it pushes easier, simple leverage, and that relays into wheelin as well.
 
Agree with woody.

Even lawnmower sales people say to buy a rear wheel drive pusher if you have hills.

Oh yeah...not to mention the impact a locked front end will have on birfield longevity as well as turning radius. :cheers:
 
So do you think its worth it to get 2 of them one for front and one for the rear?
 
And with the steering

"Unlike manual lockers which do not provide differential action when locked and severely hamper steering and directional maneuverability, the “Aussie Locker’s” smooth and sensitive operation allows differential action resulting in uncompromised steering, uphill or down, soft or hard surfaces. This means that you can select the best route or path, and negotiate tight steering bends easily. You can feel a mild tightening in the steering wheel which is a result of both front wheels having incredible traction, and driving more equally."

Do you argue this one also?

I want to have great traction but also dont want to be pissing my money away. If it will provide better traction to have locked front and rear i want to do it.
 
I would not put a non-selectable up front, especially if you don't have one in the rear. Your front tires spin because when going up hill, there is virtually no weight on the tire contact point. Making the front locked like you plan insures that you will break birfields so carry spares.

With lockers generally, 90% of the benifit of lockers comes from the rear locker, the front adds a bit more but when needed is critical. I highly reccomend a rear install. The rear has the added advantage of being a far easier install as well. Up front you will have to pull the thrid member, but you probably already know that.
 
Rear first, then put in a selectable ARB up front and you will never regret it.

Also, posting quotes from the aussie locker site is okay, but keep in mind that they will never call their product "average" for the gains of any install. They have dogs to feed afterall.
 
Thanks for the advice. Now if i do decide i need more traction is there a cheaper route than an arb, for a selectable locker.
 
IMO, run the Aussie in the rear for now, as noted EASY install (1 hour if you read directions well, 2 if you don't...ask me how I know....)

I run a welded rear and lunchbox front (EZ-Lock, same as the Aussie effectively). My steering DOES bind up in some very-high traction situations, usually when you REALLY want to steer...like pointing downhill on a steep rock and trying to turn and avoid rolling over.....hehehe

For 95% of normal wheelin, a lunchbox works great in front. I would also MUCH prefer an ARB or Toyota electric locker, but as you note, you need to work within your fundage.
 
how expensive are the toyota electric lockers? And where do you get them?
 
Definately rear. When I finally decided to put in the rear it made a huge differance. You'll make obstacles in 2wd that you couldn't do in 4wd without the locker.

As for front locker...
You are going to hear like a thousand opinions. My experience has taught me that the only opinion that really matters is your own 90% of the time. Especiall when it comes to lunch box lockers. One person may really hate something, and another it doesn't bother them at all. Yes an ARB is going to be expensive. I got a really good deal on one and still paid a lot of money in the end to get it done. If I had known that it was gonna cost me that much I would have bought another aussie and had money to do an SOA. I'm sure I won't regret it in the future, but it's hard to shell out the cash. $266 isn't that much in the long run. If you feel like it, buy one to put in the front later. If you don't like it, take it out and sell it for like $150. Yea, your out a few bucks if you don't like it, but if you do then your golden.
But like I said, that's my opinion and it doesn't mean squat ;-)

PS.. have fun with the locker, you will.
 
Bull22 said:
how expensive are the toyota electric lockers? And where do you get them?

Probably not much differant than an ARB. Nice thing about the e locker is you can engage it and disengage it if your wiring goes to crap with a 9v battery. If any part of an arb goes to hell you have no way to lock it.

You can use the rear diff out of an 80 series with an e-locker. You may be able to find one used online somewhere. You need a custom axleshaft made. Lots of work, but cool none the less.
 
If you set your t-case to operate in 2LOW you will avoid a lot of the steering binding. Then you'll only have problems turning when you need 4wheel. One of the best things I've done on mine. I can go through stuff in 2LO with a rear locker easier than most other rigs can in 4 wheel.

Chris
 
Rear first!! I'm with Woody. You won't believe the difference it makes. I also would argue against that write-up you quoted. The rear axle does carry a "much greater weight transfer" and that is why I would do the rear first. I see no sense in doing the front if you haven't locked the rear.

Also as afore mentioned you can always weld the rear and put the auto-locker in the front.

When you do lock the front be sure to do the 2-lo mod. It is very handy and makes life alot easier.
 
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