SM420 Shifter Removal

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The kit from extreme bends was right at $100. I looked into having some made, but the cost was great and I had to provide so much detail I was not sure I could accuratly describe them. I chose to go a tried and true route and not take any chances with having to do re-work.
 
Spaceghost,
Do you happen to kwow what GM vehicle the pilot bearing is off of? The parts store here is not great at taking part numbers.
 
SpaceGhost beat me to it.  I am getting ready to do this swap as well.  I didn't want to post information that I was not sure about.  The tech articles that SpaceGhost mentioned are great and I have read them several times (as you probably have too).  
The only information I could find on using the bushing was extra support because of the shorter shaft on the sm420 (like SpaceGhost said).  I am still trying to get all the parts together for this swap and have not started as of yet.  I am glad that there are other people doing this swap right now so that I can learn as much information as possible.  Reading and re-reading articles and posts like this one will save me a headache and maybe, in the future, I may be able to help someone else out on the swap.  

Another problem I am having is that my tranny did not come with the thick toothed washer on the yoke.  Does anyone know where I could find one?  
Thanks and good luck!
 
That you could make yourself with a drill press, 2" hole saw and 1/2" bit. Just get 1/4" flat bar from a home improvement store or the like.
 
If you don't have to tools I could make you one. It will be a little rough, but it should work fine.
 
73lndcrsr,
I don't have a hole saw or a 1/2 inch bit, but I would pay you for your time and materials. I don't even have a shop to work in! Let me know what ya think and we can work out the rest of the details! ;)
 
I have seen machine washers in farm stores that resemble that washer. The teeth are just impressions from being snugged up against the splines. Any thick 1/2 washer will do, the teeth marks just help ya find where to drill for the roll pin.

I don't know what that bearing is from, sorry. It was included in the kit I got from Wardens. Do ya have any GM dealers near ya? I walked into a Chevy dealership and bought one for a friend, it was $12 or so. In stock too!
 
I will give that a try. Thanks.
 
73lndcrsr, and 1980 fj40,
I am going to probably machine that nose cone sleeve tonight or soon. The trick is to get the o.d. of your nose cone since they probably did not make a precision cut on those nose cones but we need one for a slight interference fit. &nbsp:Does anyone have any requests? 1980 40, I can make you that washer if you need it. All of this will be done to help fellow cruiser heads.
Pablo
 
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I think I have everything I need now.

Thanks for the offer. I would be interested in how it comes out though.
 
Pablo,
73lndcrsr has made the washer that I need-thanks again. I will take you up on your offer for the nose adaptor. I measured the overall circumference of the nose and came up with 111 mm. I then took 111 mm/pi and came up with 35.33239734 for the diameter. &nbsp:Does that sound close to what you have? Let me know what I owe you for your time/materials/shipping! I really appreciate this!!!! Thanks again!!!
 
Space Ghost,
Please don't take me the wrong way but your machinist buddy should have taken the time to set up a drill that can do the pilot hole for a 12mm heli-coil tap and gone that route instead of using the aluminum female threads. The heli-coil is usually sold as a spark plug thread repair insert and is easily available at most auto stores. We use heli-coils on all our areo-space parts that we make at my work. I have not actually found the insert tool or tap but it has to exist. That way you have much harder female threads and would not require the acquistion of fasteners. Those 7/16-14 are much weaker than the oem Toyota 12mm. Also plug the tapped holes before bead blasting, it would help the part out a bunch or just don't bead blast it if you can make a pretty much burr-free one using scratch-free plate.
pablo
 
Just get the pilot bearing from Classic Cruisers. It is cheap and much better than the spacer thing. I tried making new bushings out of oiled bronze and I screwed it up by not driving the bushing in straight and getting it seated. It came loose after about 6 months. No big deal as I had to get in there again to change my synchro rings.
 
The question that I still have is it absolutely necessary to get a different pilot bearing? Is the J30 Toyota bearing not contacting the imput shaft? Is the classic cruiser one a roller bearing that replaces the existing Toyota bearing? I just finished a steel nose cone adaptor last night and it came out beautiful. It is a slight interference fit of about .001." On one side I made relief for silver brazing solder to flow in about .150" from the end of the nose cone. The sleeve took a bit of force to push on so if I make you (1980 fj-40) then I will need a better measurement with a pair of calipers or micrometer. Unfortunately, only a pi tape can accurately do the circumference measurement. Let me know.
Space Ghost,
Did you ever see the episode with Macho Man? That one is my favorite.
Pablo
 
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