SM420 Shifter Removal

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73lndcrsr

73lndcrsr

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Okay... :mad:

What is the secret to remove the shifter out of a SM420? I can't seem to do it. I see two roll pins, but have yuet to figure out how to get them out.

Thanks.
 
woody

woody

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push down....rotate the collar counterclockwise....same as a FJ40 4-speed.

Those two roll pins only hold the collar in.
 
73lndcrsr

73lndcrsr

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Thanks!!

That worked wonderfully. :D
 
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pablo

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73Lndcrsr,
My original 3 speed shifter works fine with my SM420. The 420 spring is shorter than the J30 and consequently is easier to take on and off. I am planning on using my J30 so I can bend it with an acetylene torch to be in the most comfortable position. The SM420 shifter is a cast shifter and I would not recomend bending it. The 465 I think is a cold rolled steel and might do the trick as well with some modifications. How far is your project?
Pablo
 
73lndcrsr

73lndcrsr

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I have just started. I have all my parts now except the studs mentioned in the kits. I have not found them yet. I will find something though. I found the bearing at a shop in NY. So far so good. I still have the orginal transmission and transfer in the truck. Hopefully next weekend I will be finishing the swap. I will let you know how it goes.
 
73lndcrsr

73lndcrsr

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Cool, thanks for the info.
 
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pablo

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Space Ghost,
What do you mean by the good lock nuts, you mean the ones with a nylon ring on one end? And what is 7/16fx7/16cx2"? Is that a 7/16-20 (fine) by 7/16 long?
Pablo
stranded in my garage!
 
73lndcrsr

73lndcrsr

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The lock nuts have a crimped thread on the end instead of the nylon. The nylon would not hold up well with the heat and oil.

The other is a stud with 7/16" coarse threads on one end and 7/16" fine threads on the other about 2" long.
 
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pablo

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Okay,
First, I have never once seen a crimped thread on a nut. What does this really look like? If these studs are for the transfer case to bolt to the plate why then don't we just use a bolt like the metric one that held the transfer case to the Toyota transmission, like a 7/16-14 that goes in from the transfer case side? I believe the cover of the SM420 has nylon parts in it.
Pablo
 
73lndcrsr

73lndcrsr

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I will have to look for a good picture of the locking nut. I think the studs are used to help get everything lined up easily. (I hope)

My covers are all bolted in place with bolts and lock washers.
 
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pablo

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73lndcrsr,

Yeah, barnhill actually has a retail location in town here. There web site is actually more useful than the people are behind the counter.

Everyone,

I have figured out everything on this conversion but the pilot bearing. &nbsp:Do I need to do something with the SM420's shorter shaft?
Pablo
 
73lndcrsr

73lndcrsr

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I ended up ordering a sleeve kit from extreme bends. I got the bellhousing ring and both the release bearing and T.O. bearing sleeves.
 
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1980FJ40

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This is a quote from  the extreme bends site.
"The input shaft length on the SM420 is very slightly shorter than on the H42 or J30 that you are replacing it with. As a result the SM420 input shaft should be supported a little better by the pilot bearing than it is on the stock F/2F set up. To this end it is highly advisable that you have a pilot bearing spacer made up that fits into the F/2F pilot bearing hole on the crankshaft. This spacer will allow use of a standard GM pilot bearing or bushing to accept the SM420 input shaft -and- so that it protrudes from the standard location by a few MM to further support and steady the input shaft.

The dimensions for this bushing are as follows:

35 mm o.d.
27.8 mm i.d.
19 mm depth

You should ensure that there is a reasonable interference fit into the crankshaft..light tapping with a plastic-faced hammer should be required for installation. And that there is a slight interference fit for the pilot bearing or bushing. Be sure to make the fit not-too-tight or the bearing/bushing will be deformed and will not function properly."

SpaceGhost has been answering these same questions for me and directed me to this site.  Excellent write up.

My problem is there is no machine shop in this little town I live in!
 
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1980FJ40

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73lndcrsr,
What was the price of the kit? I will go that route too!
Thanks.
 
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pablo

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1980fj40,
I am sorry to keep asking the same questions but the extreme bends site does little to help me. That bushing allows for a smaller o.d. bearing to replace the Toyota bearing right? What is the GM part number for the bearing? That is silly to request a GM pilot bearing because the guy at the counter will not help you without any more information. What is the tolerance of fit on the bushing i.d.? o.d.? What material, brass? And finally, does one really need to use a different pilot bearing at the expense of a bushing possibly allowing the bearing to loosen up? I suspect that it is not needed. If you can convience me exactly why I need this bushing then I will make two, one for me and one for you. Oh, I can get it done faster then any machine shop you can find.
Pablo
 
SpaceGhost

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I'll try and clear this up, I sense some frustration, and I apologize for that. When this all started (my desire to swap trannies) I also read all the info available and had to sort out what I needed. Since that time some of the sources have dried up, and new ones have appeared. Please be patient, this isn't your average swap.

Here are some additional resources for Info and parts:

Great pics and procedure stuff from PinHead
http://members.cox.net/cglabe1/SM420/sm420.html

Classic Cruisers, parts can be bought from them
www.classiccruisers.com

The gm pilot bearing part # is 14061685, this was posted on my web page for this conversion, along with source info for the bearing and other items.

The bushing is needed to support the shorter input shaft of the sm420. It is not weaker, nor will it fail if made from mild steel. The bearing is a roller type, better than brass bushings.

If you have access to machine shop equipment, you can make a bushing from oilite and skip the bearing. Just measure the input bearing surface of the tranny and crank hole for the pilot. I suspect that is the dimensions posted above, but since mine is installed I have no way of confirming this.

If Pinhead see's this he did that exact thing, and may be able to offer specifics. If Pablo works it out, you should make a more than a few and sell em. Same with the sleeve for the throwout bearing. I bought both of these items from Wardens while they were in business. Not worth the hassle to make.

I'll continue to watch this thread for more questions.
 
SpaceGhost

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Space Ghost,
What do you mean by the good lock nuts, you mean the ones with a nylon ring on one end?  And what is 7/16fx7/16cx2"?  Is that a 7/16-20 (fine) by 7/16 long?
Pablo
stranded in my garage!  

I know this was answered, but .....

One end of all real automotive type studs is coarse, the other is fine. The threads on this stud are 7/16" Coarse (14 pitch) and Fine (20 pitch) the overall length is 2". Napa/Rockford # ST52.

Nyloc nuts suck. They are single use at best, not rated for heat applications, and are always taller overall than the crimped reusable locknuts. As stated, industry standard for grade 8 lock nuts.

You asked why not just use the metric fasteners. I asked my machinist the same question. As you can see this plate is professionally cnc'd, by a guy that made Indy Car parts, from scratch, and drawings (prints). He explained that 6061 would not support fine thread fastners. Chooses were to go to steel or, follow common practice, use coarse fastners. BTW, all plate adapters I know of use the same fastners.

The main reason for using studs instead of bolts inside the tcase is easy of installation/alignment. They will be stronger as well, and you won't rip the threads out by overtightening. Be sure to use a little locktite whenever you install studs. Red if ya don't plan to take it apart, green if ya do.
 

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