You are one cheap salesman.
Try pricing some coil over suspension for your RX8 and 800 bucks seems cheap. We are so spoiled with $20 OEM shocks.
Shocks/suspention questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fish2live
- Start date
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You are one cheap salesman.
Try pricing some coil over suspension for your RX8 and 800 bucks seems cheap. We are so spoiled with $20 OEM shocks.You are one cheap salesman.
HA! Little do you know. My Taco had $1100 Donohoes because they made a difference.
My 100 is lovely as is though with OME. Would I like a little added stiffness? Yes....but no way in hell for $800.
Mine didn't clunk on my 99 LC. Check to make sure they are all tighten down. Sounds like one might be loose.
Well $800 seems like much but I paid close to $300 for my OME that I junk 18 month later for KYB GR2 for $260 and I am still very dissatisfied with my setup. Plus all the hard labor I put changing the rear shock. The KYB provide a little bit better body control although off road you still bounce all over the place. $800 for one shot that is guaranteed to work still sounds like a bargain to me.
I heard slee is working to bring this shocks cheaper. So hopefully he could get some results soon.
I heard slee is working to bring this shocks cheaper. So hopefully he could get some results soon.
This is why you want to buy a good product to begin with. With Koni and Bilstein you do it once and generally never have to touch them again.
That is right but when you have no other choice what would you do?????
Regular length Bilstein would top of all the time with my setup.
He is talking to you too since deep down you still dissatisfied with your JUNK OME. OME are no good for IFS. The only OME that I really satisfied with is the one on my old Samurai.And you're talking to who?
I'm not dissatisfied whatsoever. I do wish I could IMPROVE the front with a slightly stiffer shock.
- Thread starter
- #32
uh.....
any other suggestions other than one shock mighe be loose?? Just trying to hijack my own thread back...
Fish
any other suggestions other than one shock mighe be loose?? Just trying to hijack my own thread back...
Fish
Agree with the JUNK OME statement. I've blown several individual OME shocks and two steering dampers, and the stories coming out of Oz are too numerous to be just a blip on the radar. For mass market, Bilstein, Koni, Sachs, Tokico, etc. are the only way to go IMHO.
any other suggestions other than one shock mighe be loose?? Just trying to hijack my own thread back...
Fish
Maybe a loose plastic panel that was moved in installation. They have a tendency to make noise way "above their weight".
Hey Fish, since you paid for them to be installed and did not have the noise before, have them put it up on the stand and take a look. When the front is loose, they should be able to knock around and crate the noise possibly.
For us that will be putting on the Billies, keep us updated as the cause.
For us that will be putting on the Billies, keep us updated as the cause.
- Thread starter
- #36
you got it, taking it in there on Sat for a quick look, will keep you posted
Fish
Fish
any other suggestions other than one shock mighe be loose?? Just trying to hijack my own thread back...
Fish
I seem to recall that you had to make sure the metal plate above the bushing seats into the frame/shock mount hole (lack of a better term) that the shock goes into. I held mine until the bolt was tight enough so I could let go and torque her down. I think if they were not lined up it could be bad and make noise.
The front is easy espically since it was just done. Have them unbolt the upper nut and line everything up and retorque.
Let us know what they find.
The $800 improvement, which is only really less than half that over the average yellow twin tube, which is well marketed, but not good at its job, is a small price to pay for the difference, and you get more travel than fitting even the L shock on the same car.
You do have to be careful with the rears though, using only one locator, and 2 washers, as over tightening with all the extra travel can overwork the shaft at the top, because of the pin and large washers and rubbers at the top.
The shocks here are $1000, and we remove more OME than anything else to fit them, as the owners experience our product, and decide to spend the money on shocks again, properly, the second time, so if you do it first up, it works out cheaper
You do have to be careful with the rears though, using only one locator, and 2 washers, as over tightening with all the extra travel can overwork the shaft at the top, because of the pin and large washers and rubbers at the top.
The shocks here are $1000, and we remove more OME than anything else to fit them, as the owners experience our product, and decide to spend the money on shocks again, properly, the second time, so if you do it first up, it works out cheaper
We do the bilsteins with our set up, with the best bushes we can use, and the valving works fantastic on a 2-3" lifted vehicle, though having said that, we have been spending some time on building some Fox coil over for fronts, and long travel rears with a new top a arm, for increased alignment settings and travel, to stop the top ball joint from running out of travel. How much better is yet to be determined it will be for the extra cost, but we are developing afew exclusive products for our market with fox shox at the moment.
justimaginejack
Looking for a new Cruiser
ATS,
What bilsteins would you run on a LC with a 2.5-3.0" lift?
Does Christo have the same set up you guys run down thier?
What bilsteins would you run on a LC with a 2.5-3.0" lift?
Does Christo have the same set up you guys run down thier?
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