Seeking advice - leaky 3rd member

[hammerheadfistpunch]

So about 15,000 miles ago I had an authorized Toyota repair center rebuilt my axles with new seals and new gears, I went out and did a mild trail (3-4 rated) and used my front locker 2x, I didn't hit my pumpkin and i unlocked the diff as soon as i was over the hump. Now this

The 3rd member is leaking gear oil from the lowest bolt hole. I checked my breather and its clear and I checked my birf grease and its still grease so i don't think I am over-pressuered in the housing. I took it into them for just a quick eyeball inspection and they found the lower 5 bolts a little loose. My guess is that they didn't torque down the bolts to spec after sealing it up and the gasket is torn. I am hoping that they will do the right thing and reseal the 3rd member but assuming they don't...what are my options here?

 

[Mixelplix]

I know you're in a different situation because you paid good money to have the work done, but I can tell you that my lower third bolts loosened up after 10k miles after I did my diff job. The bottom 4-5 were completely loose.

I couldn't understand how that happened, as I was extremely anal about the job - and I KNOW I torqued them.

I simply torqued them again, and it's been fine for quite a few months. No damage to the gasket.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

I know you're in a different situation because you paid good money to have the work done, but I can tell you that my lower third bolts loosened up after 10k miles after I did my diff job. The bottom 4-5 were completely loose.

I couldn't understand how that happened, as I was extremely anal about the job - and I KNOW I torqued them.

I simply torqued them again, and it's been fine for quite a few months. No damage to the gasket.

They re-torqued the bolts yesterday and its still leaking, is there a retorque recommendation in the FSM?

 

[cruiserdan]

There is a torque spec and it depends on which year you look it up as. The 94 book shows 18 lb-ft. I think one of the other years shows 26 lb-ft.

In any event I have seen this before in vehicles that were properly torqued. The moving diff may have damaged the gasket. If this was done by a dealer and the job is less than a year old it should be covered by the dealer.

The original washers on these things are flat (which I don't understand). Anymore when I do one I replace those with split lock washers that were used on 4WD trucks. 94512-00800.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

There is a torque spec and it depends on which year you look it up as. The 94 book shows 18 lb-ft. I think one of the other years shows 26 lb-ft.

In any event I have seen this before in vehicles that were properly torqued. The moving diff may have damaged the gasket. If this was done by a dealer and the job is less than a year old it should be covered by the dealer.

The original washers on these things are flat (which I don't understand). Anymore when I do one I replace those with split lock washers that were used on 4WD trucks. 94512-00800.

would you expect the same type of coverage from an authorized independent toyota repair center?

Whats the trick to avoiding this? I was super gentle on the truck so its not like it was abusive and if its been torqued properly...just retorque?

 

[cruiserdan]

would you expect the same type of coverage from an authorized independent toyota repair center?

Whats the trick to avoiding this? I was super gentle on the truck so its not like it was abusive and if its been torqued properly...just retorque?

Toyota does not "authorize" independent repair centers that I am aware of. You will have to consult your paper work to see what kind of coverage, if any, is stated.

As I mentioned above my personal "fix" is to use lock washers instead of flat washers. And I do keep an eye on them. I check them every oil change.

 

[devildogcruiser25]

I had the same issue after I did a front axle job on mine. Somehow the gasket had ripped after a wheeling trip so I pulled it off again, for rid of the gasket and used some FPG. No issues since then.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Any danger in towing a trailer a few hundred miles this weekend? I have an appointment for next Tuesday and they already know that re torquing them didn't solve the problem. I will keep an eye on the level, but will loading up the truck just make the drip a flood?

 

[cruiserdan]

Running out of oil is the risk. Secondary will be an aromatic coating of gear oil on the rest of the running gear and exhaust. If the fasteners are tight and it is still leaking you could degrease the edge with brake cleaner, dry it as quickly as possibe and then run a bead of silicone around the edge of the diff flange. That may slow it down.

Still you run the risk of burning up the diff if the oil leaks out going down the road.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Running out of oil is the risk. Secondary will be an aromatic coating of gear oil on the rest of the running gear and exhaust. If the fasteners are tight and it is still leaking you could degrease the edge with brake cleaner, dry it as quickly as possibe and then run a bead of silicone around the edge of the diff flange. That may slow it down.

Still you run the risk of burning up the diff if the oil leaks out going down the road.

Thats the obvious risk and I wouldn't let that happen, I keep a couple of quarts with me all the time and the leak is really slow, just wondering how the extra strain of towing would affect the rate of the leak.

 

[cruiserdan]

That is where the diff being securely attached to the axle housing comes into play. If the gasket is "still there" IE a piece of it has not fallen out (I have seen this as well) then the mounting surface would be even. If some part of th gasket is missing the contact surface will be uneven and may be able to loosen up again.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

That is where the diff being securely attached to the axle housing comes into play. If the gasket is "still there" IE a piece of it has not fallen out (I have seen this as well) then the mounting surface would be even. If some part of th gasket is missing the contact surface will be uneven and may be able to loosen up again.

Its leaking out of the bolt hole...so I would venture that the gasket is fine except right around that hole. it may be moot anyway with a lovely cold and or flu hitting the hammerhead fistpunch household.

 

[cruiserdan]

Out a hole I would remove the nut and washer, spray it down with brake cleaner and dry it as rapidly as possible, squirt silicone in the space between the stud and the diff, shove the washer and nut back on it and tighten it up. After the nut is back in place coat the outside with silicone.

With the nut off do check the stud to make sure it is tight in the diff. If that is loose it will make the leak worse.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Out a hole I would remove the nut and washer, spray it down with brake cleaner and dry it as rapidly as possible, squirt silicone in the space between the stud and the diff, shove the washer and nut back on it and tighten it up. After the nut is back in place coat the outside with silicone.

With the nut off do check the stud to make sure it is tight in the diff. If that is loose it will make the leak worse.

silicon as in RTV?

 

[cruiserdan]

Yup.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Yup.

Many thanks Dan, will do. Except, would you care...if it were your shop...if i did that before I brought it in.

 

[cruiserdan]

I did it to myslf actually one time. That "temporary" repair went a few years before I got around to doing a re-gear. It was a little extra to clean up but not bad.

 

[mkmarz]

https://www.trail-gear.com/TG/Differential_Stud_Eliminator_Kit/p/_803.aspx

 

[cruiserdan]

Properly set studs rarely "come out" on their own. If that were the case they wouldn't be used all over the place.

 

[bonestock]

Quick revive here for a part number request on the paper gasket. 97 LX450, Front 3rd Member / Axle Housing Paper Gasket.