I’m trying to get Coyote’s 4:10 third members out to replace with 3:70’s. Fluids drained axles removed, bolts un done. Can’t get it to budge. How aggressive can I be with a BFH ? Probably never been removed in 45 years.
Secretes to removing 3rd members
- Thread starter 61twpw
- Start date
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Funny, I went the other direction and changed my 3:73 to 4:10 ratio last year....
Axles totally out right? Just need approximately 6 inches actually.
I used a block of wood then the BFH and carefully made strikes up by the yoke for the most leverage. I think I used a torch as well to soften / loosen the seal. Once it broke loose, I quickly tossed the BFH and used a flathead screwdriver to wedge the 3rd member out enough to where I could manhandle it off.
It's tough because there's not a lot of room to work under the truck. Take your time as BFH usage can be unforgiving as well as productive.
Axles totally out right? Just need approximately 6 inches actually.
I used a block of wood then the BFH and carefully made strikes up by the yoke for the most leverage. I think I used a torch as well to soften / loosen the seal. Once it broke loose, I quickly tossed the BFH and used a flathead screwdriver to wedge the 3rd member out enough to where I could manhandle it off.
It's tough because there's not a lot of room to work under the truck. Take your time as BFH usage can be unforgiving as well as productive.
Have a nice pad on which it can fall out on. I used a screwdriver, but must be careful not to marr the sealing surfaces.
Marr? sp?
I like the painters 5 in 1 for not marring the surface when tapping something in between to surfaces.
- Thread starter
- #6
Axle shafts are totally out. Housing still in vehicle. Using brass drift so not to mar. PITA so far and still in. Figured it might be beer thirty. Will try that Jmack thanks.
Yeah, that's what I do, just drive a pry in between third and housing. I've been using J Mack's scraper all week, painting the basement. works great on rollers.
Good luck man, she'll come out.
Good luck man, she'll come out.
- Thread starter
- #10
About 3 past that
. Then the BFH
Sounds like your thirds might have been glued in with silicone at some point. Do you have the new paper gaskets to replace when you reinstall the new thirds?
I had to have Kurt @cruiseroutfit overnight some to me last time because I forgot about them. Some say you don’t need them but I’m in the camp that believe you do if keeping the axle center-line center of the ring gear is important to you.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Use your floor jack to jack up the pinion end of the differential. Put some good pressure on it and just let it sit there. That will crack the seal and allow you to work it out. I have never seen this fail.
WTF.
- Thread starter
- #14
Maybe the third leg, not member?
I like the painters 5 in 1 for not marring the surface when tapping something in between to surfaces.
Oil pan gasket sst
@Cruiserdrew for the win...
Put some straps on it to keep it from making a crater in your floor.
I recall now that I too used my floor jack up by the yoke to break it loose - I'm getting forgetful... I remember (now) that mine broke sooner than later using this method.
An important side note: I have to undo it all and pull my 3rd because I didn't properly seal mine it it leaks gear oil.... Not a bad leak but bad enough - pay attention to your seal work.
An important side note: I have to undo it all and pull my 3rd because I didn't properly seal mine it it leaks gear oil.... Not a bad leak but bad enough - pay attention to your seal work.
pull all studs to get the flange good and clean; clean hardware, thin smear of grey GO rtv on both sides of gasket. real thin but evenly covering. put a little rtv- not much- on splines of companion flange, just like the Tcase.
- Thread starter
- #20
Thanks for the advise. Floor jack did the trick, along with a paint scraper and PB Blaster.