Second Battery - Purpose, Experience?

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Dan Higgins

Dan Higgins

Joined
Jul 24, 2016
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It is likely that this question belongs on the Stupid Question of the Day thread (I could probably fill up that thread) so we can move it there if it is appropriate.

I am looking more and more to using my 2016 for short camping stints (1-2 nights) where I don't want to pull our ~28' trailer or the trailer won't go where I want to be. I don't plan to go "all in". No fridge. No RTT. I plan to sleep in the back of the LC on the ARB drawer system I purchased from Slee and installed a couple weeks ago. I may eventually sleep "upstairs" on the Gobi Stealth rack which will go in late next week (using a bivy sack or small 1-person tent) so I can sleep "under the stars" or when my wife is along and needs to sleep "downstairs".

One of the considerations is lighting which I brought up before. Still not clear what I want to do there so doing nothing for now. But I am thinking that the lights will use up a lot of battery if on while the engine is off. (That's the SQOD!) How effective is a second battery for power accessories like lights? Do I need one to power some LED lights? And if so, is the Slee setup a good way to go?

A corollary question, Why does Slee offer a battery tray upgrade? Is this needed if you only have one battery? What is the issue with the original?
 
LED lighting is extremely efficient. It would be very hard to kill a battery with an LED unless you're running something large like a high output light bar. That is one great reason for changing out all of the interior lights in any vehicle with LEDs is so you won't accidentally kill your battery by leaving a light on.

Having an AUX battery is great for really two purposes. The first is you can use it to power something that will have constant drain even when the vehicle is off without having to worry about killing your starting battery. A refrigerator is the perfect example as you'll typically want to power that even when the vehicle is not running.

The second purpose is having a backup way to start your vehicle if something happens to your starter battery. That can save your life if very far from civilization.
 
I would start by documenting your intended use cases and go from there. I have a working document (happy to share) that I'm using to document my journey of going through exactly what you're going through, why do I need a dual-battery system and if I go with one, what do I really need? Consider your needs both now, and in the future. It's not a cheap mod, at least not as cheap as it would appear at first. Plus pulling apart all the necessary paneling and running wires cleanly through your rig is not something you want to do more than once or twice. So over-design it initially knowing in the future if you decide to add that fridge you don't have to run another line, another switch, expand fuse box, etc...

PM me if you want more specifics into my thinking, but I decided YES to dual battery, main reason is I travel alone w/ the family a lot, and don't want to be stranded due to a dead battery and no other vehicle to jump from. My 2nd reason is for what you're alluding, light... and power to charge devices.

Slee offers an upgraded primary battery to fit a group 31 which will provide more power. I decided to first add the 2nd group 35 (but I bought both trays form them at the same time) and then when my current primary dies I'll replace w/ a Grp. 31. I see no sense in spending $$ and replacing something that is working just fine.

I also went w/ the Blue Sea 7622 ACR vs any of the out of the box solutions. Have a local shop who will be making up all the cables, etc...
 
That's great if it works. I've had bad experiences w/ those types of jumpers, not enough CCAs for an SUV. The LC batteries are all 700+ CCAs and 800+ CAs. I don't know what the min cranking amps needed to turn over the LC but the device you sent, although powerful in comparison, only lists: 300 Amps starting current – 600A Peak.
 
Mogwai said:
That's great if it works. I've had bad experiences w/ those types of jumpers, not enough CCAs for an SUV. The LC batteries are all 700+ CCAs and 800+ CAs. I don't know what the min cranking amps needed to turn over the LC but the device you sent, although powerful in comparison, only lists: 300 Amps starting current – 600A Peak.
Click to expand...

To each his own. The XP10 is incredibly powerful and many mechanics use them in their shops instead of the large kind on wheels. Some of the reviewers have completely disconnected their batteries on large diesels and been able to start on the XP10 alone. It's great the dual battery solution is right for you, but it doesn't sound like the OP needs that kind of power at this stage.
 
I use to believe in the 2-battery strategy, but two things (LED and mini jump starts) already touched on above, have changed my opinion.

With those two thing, I personally would rather mount one extra capacity battery at the stock position. Lead acid batteries by nature really hate being deep cycled. For the same load, it's better to draw against a single extra capacity battery, than an isolated single smaller battery. Weight, and cost to install, is also a drawback of the 2 batt strategy.
 
I do have an XP-10 though have not yet needed to use it. I know the guys on the Land Rover forum are high on it and have found it effective. I also know that I originally purchased a cheaper, Chinese knockoff and it failed. So I replaced with the real deal.

Sounds like a single battery will meet my needs though I may want to look into extra capacity ones. I won't be using a fridge though I may have a couple smaller LED light bars for camping. We have a camping trailer with LED lighting throughout and my battery can get us through 2-3 days easy. If I wanted to go with a higher capacity battery, any recommendations? Will they fit in the OEM battery space?
 
From a guy with only a 27F AGM starting battery (Northstar)
Just my little opinion, I've been running a fridge for about 5 years now from all across the country. I am good for about 2 nights and a day and can still start up the 5.7 just fine, for anything longer, I've used a simple goal zero 12v guardian charge and 2 20w solar panels to help out the starting battery

For lighting I bought a Ravpower lithium battery and have 2 goal zero lanterns and a power practical luminoodle. I can charge the Rav power lithium battery off the solar if needed, when driving I have have an anker 2.4amp 12v usb charger that charges the Rav power up in half the time. the Rav power is only an inch thin so it slides under the drivers seat while moving (not taking up any additional space)

With everything running off of a USB type plug, it is all light and modular. Plus my entire lighting setup cost was less than $200, and I can use it during power outages in the house or cool places I find while traveling that don't have good or any power (and its back packable)

Ravpower 26,800 mAh (100 watt hour) battery $50 (choose over anker because Ravpower allows pass through charging)
Anker 3usb 2.4 amp cigarette charger $20
Goal zero light house mini $40
goal zero light house micro $20
Goal zero light a life mini $20
Power practical lominoodle 10ft $30
Anker 10ft powerline+ usb to micro usb cable $10

I have a Microstart XP-2 but the only time I ever needed it was when the 200 sitting in my garage and the auto lights off function didn't work. The interior lights couldn't even kinda glow the battery was so drained. Once i connect the micro start, the whole truck light up and fired up like no big deal.
 
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Like others have mentioned, make a list of reasons why you need a second battery and make an decision accordingly. Many people throw parts at their vehicles because it either looks cool, bragging rights, or its what they think they need. What works for one person might not work for another. I occasionally nerd it up with a telescope and additional astrophotography equipment that requires a fair bit of constant power (I've killed a jump pack sized battery in a few hours) for that instance, it's needed. For occasional weekend trips, a jump pack for assurance is probably all you need. Wants aren't the same as needs.
 
TonyP said:
Like others have mentioned, make a list of reasons why you need a second battery and make an decision accordingly. Many people throw parts at their vehicles because it either looks cool, bragging rights, or its what they think they need. What works for one person might not work for another. I occasionally nerd it up with a telescope and additional astrophotography equipment that requires a fair bit of constant power (I've killed a jump pack sized battery in a few hours) for that instance, it's needed. For occasional weekend trips, a jump pack for assurance is probably all you need. Wants aren't the same as needs.
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^^^ that right there is advice to live by
 
With my dual batteries (Slee trays, type 31 main and type 35 2nd), I can run a 1500 Watt sine wave inverter in back, and retain enough voltage to run just about any appliance or tool with engine running...or anything up to around 1200 watts without running. That, despite cables that are longer than recommended for voltage drop.

With the sone wave, I can even run a full power microwave, electric burner or 1500 watt heat gun while camping (heat gun is MIRACULOUS for getting a tent toasty warm before crawling in!).

I don't have my fridge yet, but when I do, my goal is to run it the better portion of a week without worrying. We'll see what the limits are there when I test this next summer.

Still, I wouldn't minding adding a third, disconnected backup.

When I had my 100, before I had a proper battery manager, I used to top-off and just take along a second battery and leave it in the truck. This was just in case I came back after backpacking for a week to find a dead battery...I could at least jump-start myself with the separate battery.

If all you want are good LED lighting for camp, you might want to invest in a nice set of stand-alone LED lights that don't depend on your 200 at all. LEDs are crazy bright and crazy cheap these days. Lots of solution options out there short of a full dual setup.

For me, the eventual fridge, winch, lights and tool/appliance use as well as a truck sitting for a week+ in the boonies mean a dual setup makes sense for me. As others have wisely noted...everyone's needs greatly vary.

One last thought.., You can reduce even your interior lighting power draw to 1/10th the default by simply swapping in LEDs instead of the hot-running bulbs in 200s. I swapped all 12...and by doing that I went from 120 watts...to a mere 22 watts, and brighter besides.

If you are interested in swapping gbinterior lighting, have a look at the LED thread I posted some time back:

Finally! Pleasing, Warm LEDs for Interior

Markuson
 
TonyP said:
Like others have mentioned, make a list of reasons why you need a second battery and make an decision accordingly. Many people throw parts at their vehicles because it either looks cool, bragging rights, or its what they think they need. What works for one person might not work for another.
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As always, i very much appreciate the feedback I get on this forum.

@TonyP I absolutely agree with this! Others have far more experience with these sorts of vehicles and their use cases so they may have their mods list ready before they even buy their truck. Although I have some ideas of how I intend to use it based on our LR4 what I don't want to do is just add/buy stuff because others have or most certainly not because of what others will think of my truck or how it looks. That is why I appreciate the input on actual experience.

For now I will stick with one battery. I'll look to upgrade the capacity in the future, keep my XP10 charged up and handy and explore the solar route per @Taco2Cruiser if i find myself going out for more than one night at a time between drives.

For now I need to focus on driving lights for my Gobi rack and a suspension upgrade in the Spring. Those I know I'll use. Possibly an ARB on board compressor as I fuss with my tires a lot.
 
Dan,
Since your loads seem very minimal (no fridge or desktop workstation that requires a 1.5k watt full sinewave inverter), you may want to look at a portable solar charging panel to put into the truck when going out multi-day camping. A bunch of guys on the trailer forum that I am on use these:
Portable Solar Panel Kits

Of course, you will need to take stock in your total load to determine which size is best for you, but it does give you that ability to recharge your battery without having to worry about a permanent installation. (This assumes you go out, park, use battery power without starting and running the engine.)

Good luck!
 
LCHardriver_02 said:
Dan,
Since your loads seem very minimal (no fridge or desktop workstation that requires a 1.5k watt full sinewave inverter), you may want to look at a portable solar charging panel to put into the truck when going out multi-day camping. A bunch of guys on the trailer forum that I am on use these:
Portable Solar Panel Kits

Of course, you will need to take stock in your total load to determine which size is best for you, but it does give you that ability to recharge your battery without having to worry about a permanent installation. (This assumes you go out, park, use battery power without starting and running the engine.)

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Great idea. We didn't order our trailer (Lance 2285) with solar as I wanted the option of doing something later when I better understood the options and my needs. And I wanted something portable in case I'm camping under trees. I could get one system and use it for both purposes. I do bring my Mac along with me from time to time but I wouldn't make extensive use of it and I'm hoping for portable external batteries to come out for it soon. I had one for my older Mac but I now have the new one and the power plug has changed.

Anyway, thanks for the tip!
 
No problem! I love the idea of being able to use it for both truck and trailer! Of course, you may find that the trailer needs a larger one and a smaller more portable unit may be better for the truck, given the limited cargo area (yeah, I said limited.... as compared to the trailer!:rolleyes:)
 
Oh, BTW, the wife is talking to me about trading in the 2185 for a 2285... kids aren't going camping with us so much so we don't need the bunks and she loves the layout on the new 2285!
 
For 1-2 nights of camping with the primary need being lighting, I like the idea from @Markuson to simply use stand-alone LED lanterns/lights around the camp and inside the truck. You could have lots of flexible light and if you get a couple sets of rechargeable batteries for those, you can run them a very long time. Later on, if you needs for power go beyond lighting, you can consider consider extras like solar and 2nd batteries.
 
Sandroad said:
For 1-2 nights of camping with the primary need being lighting, I like the idea from @Markuson to simply use stand-alone LED lanterns/lights around the camp and inside the truck. You could have lots of flexible light and if you get a couple sets of rechargeable batteries for those, you can run them a very long time. Later on, if you needs for power go beyond lighting, you can consider consider extras like solar and 2nd batteries.
Click to expand...

For stand-alone lights... I run two separate battery chargers using the 110 outlet in back...which is awesome, because I always have fully charged batteries on hand when traveling. Especially fantastic are lights that utilize the incredible power of lithium 18650 batteries. For those who maybe shy away from strange battery types...don't! 18650's are actually quite commonly used inside various power bricks. Individually, they have excellent shelf life (slow shelf depletion) and are insanely powerful. With a good charger, it's super easy to use them for years.

Have a look at Nitecore flashlights for some amazing light blasters that use these and various other lithiums.
 
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