Search and Rescue JoKe (2014 JK)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

thinned wiring harness ready to go in
J2e5etQh.jpg


need a few days of less than 110 degrees in the shop but this is getting close
 
and wiring continues until the world ends
LOxfJMph.jpg


where I'm at. I've got nothing accomplished. The ignition switch will power the motor and turn it off, however, getting it to engage the starter has been a challenge.

I'm stepping back from that - worst case scenario, it gets a button... but I have a lot of other things I can do, so I'll continue to mess with it while I go onto my next challenge - wiring the fan to work. Once that is done, it actually could be driven on the road. Speedo works, all the dash emojis light up (festive) even ones I didn't do anything with (sway bar disconnect error light).
 
with how much this motor costs, I'm surprised you have to go aftermarket to get the flange
Iui8gN6h.jpg

not just that but the m10x1.25 nuts aren't included for the exhaust...
and that other piece... 60 bucks... no
installed
BWYxgjvh.jpg

304 16 ga stainless
5dd09R1h.jpg

and tips
w6MsQfEh.jpg

I didn't finish because I am out of oxygen for my torch - need to make and install hanger - all of which require a 90 degree bend
also fixed the jack on my trailer so I can haul it to a friend to figure out the ignition situation
SthLCsFh.jpg


ignition powers on, but won't crank. Occasionally it does but then shortly after that it won't crank at all (even with a bypass).... also plumb the A/C
 
So close.
intake, done
8VHZPIJh.jpg

exhaust
ZrT9tMBh.jpg

done
GhTQaXJh.jpg


what's left for me - put the interior back together.

then it goes back to Woodinville to a friend who loves wiring... he'll solve the ignition switch issue, wire the a/c pump and tie the temp sensors into the diesel sensor (thus enabling the fan circuit). finally wire the oil pressure switch and determine if we can fool the tach into taking the diesel outputs....

once it gets back, I'm doing a different 'house storage' system that integrates solar panels, and a lithium battery pack that also runs the engine-off a/c system.

this I'll publish later but the nutshell is we're using Zero Breeze a/c and their e-generator (batteries). I also think I can charge the reserve system with a simple 12v - 110v inverter. This should make the system easier and portable between our K9 rescue rigs.
 
so back to this... first problem, went to the gas station and realized I need a bigger hole
wH3vdTRh.jpg

I have a list of stuff to fix and finish... it's not terribly long but the fuel fill and the gas pedal are at the very top of the list...
To be honest, I have no idea (not in the instructions either) about where the pedal should be mounted in relation to your foot. I know for 100% sure that spot isn't found by using the Jeep pedal studs... go figure...
What else? cabin wiring, make things look pretty under the hood, realign the steering wheel, put new tires on it... then let my wife drive it for awhile to get the 'real' list... but before i give it to her... that fuel pedal and fuel filler will be fixed.
 
back to the Jeep. The weird sound - almost like a boost leak but not quite. I hope this is the problem
LxVrmlMh.jpg


I think I'll weld the flanges together then use a V-band to make it removeable. I spent some quality time on this trying to find the noise... hope it's it. Otherwise, this may go do its purpose this week.... Colorado needs some love (after all, she put 75,000 miles on it since she got it last March)... so this goes back into service. Still have several things to do but none of them prevent it from being used while doing that stuff:
- for those curious-
- back 1/2 bench
- install the zero breeze battery
- install a charge plug on the outside
- turn off the dash lights

things I'll do before it leaves
- coolant reservoir (oops, forgot that)
- exhaust leak
- shore power plug
- straighten steering wheel
- figure out backup camera
- and most importantly, figure out why I'm getting a 3597 code (unstable switched power)

it does drive fine, if not a bit slow. Once it gets up to speed, cruising at 80 isn't an issue. It's funny, you never notice the dash light issue sure - they're on, but really not noticeable.
 
Wiring
switched a wire and now have a master switch
aHJh2KMh.jpg

off
IxS2M2Jh.jpg

on
iQjvPRTh.jpg

and now with a cover
N2XEZjKh.jpg

as the top doesn't leak enough.... a new hole
dEy98tGh.jpg

for shore power
CFhQabPh.jpg

and riveted in place
XtRrXTjh.jpg

and we need a seat in back
so why a cooler seat?
yMz10O6h.jpg

fUcrZxOh.jpg

whip up a couple brackets
yMz10O6h.jpg

just need to strap it down and craft a couple cushions
MOKOzzDh.jpg
 
Soooo
long story short, bottom end sounds like it's losing a rod cap.
Took it to Cummins to diagnose the throttle issue and an electrical gremlin. Both were more installer error.... but when they got done, suddenly it had a rod knock.
We thought it was coming from the transmission.... it's not
W4yYXkhh.jpg

ATM it's parked, I'm so disgusted with this thing that I frankly don't want to look at it. I'll get back to it but tomorrow will be the fun of finding out how to get a new motor under warranty.... wish me luck
 
No worries - not a rod knock
started with a clean pan
Ojdpptbh.jpg

but wait, no fuzzies
28mbAkph.jpg

there is no airgap .... ugh, all the worry for nothing
jAsGqoxh.jpg


For those who wonder what this looks like installed
2k7oFMah.jpg


I know it looks like it fills the space, thing is, to not have to shorten driveshafts, enlargen the tunnel, and figure out a new shifter for the tr-4050... the motor is at least 4" forward.... that said, it does take a lot of width
 
this should surprise no one, I found the problem in some random place.... the article describes the issue and what I'm hearing


and no, I'd never heard of this before... but the symptoms and noise are exactly the issue.... on top of this, I had it up on my lift today and really searching for the noise source
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom