At least you discovered it before you locked the thing up like I did years ago after a 2F rebuild. Oil cooler to block gasket on mine was stamped wrong blocking the oil return hole. And the pressure sender is on the cooler. Thought I had great oil pressure... Locked up 5-10 minutes into breaking in the new cam. Thankfully a new set of main bearings and a crank polish was all it needed for a fix. But of course it had to come out of the truck, back on the stand, more gaskets, etc. Fun stuff.
Yeah I had like 70 psi oil pressure. Not pulling the motor , pulling the cam out and drilling the cam bearing . At least that's the plan for now. That may change after I get into it. The gasket I used had two holes, so the gasket could go on either way and still line up with the oil hole. The machine shop put the cam bearings in, the guy who put the motor together came over this morning to adjust the valves and that's when we noticed there was no oil on the rocker arms. Just glad we caught it, but still sucks, hate do overs.
I'm not buying the either-way head gasket thing... verify that first. my very good (no sarcasm) machinist put mine on wrong. I caught it before fire-up by priming with a drill and modified screw driver at quarter turns of the crank thru 2 full crank turns with nothing to the top; that and there was the tell-tale flap stuck between the tstat housing and head- it should be at the back. could be like you said, but would check the head gasket first. also need the rocker towers in correct position and clocking and the shaft needs to be oriented correctly front to rear and clocked correclty- if any of that stuff was apart, then that needs to be verified. these things are easier than bottom end invasion, no? the oil pressure is taken well before the top end galley take off. if you've done the oil galley threaded plug mod, then you can take the plug out and bump the motor to see if oil is going up, but being trapped from above or if it never even makes it to the magic head bolt hole...if you haven't done the oil galley plug, you should do it before even looking fot the head gasket tab, as it needs to be done regardless. while doing the job, just stop after cutting the threads before putting the plug in and bump the motor for oil check....doesn't this make sense to do before jumping into the panic hole? good machinist you have, BTW to come over to do the valve adjust.
only one rocker tower is drilled for oil i think its the third one in from the back ,if the rocker arm assembly wasnt messed with then your probably good.ive seen the wrong headgasket used also and the holes dont line up .the cam bearing thing would be a first good luck
Thanks for the info guys, I had an extra head gasket can't remember why, but I'm thinking it was a felpro. We looked at it and it had two holes, looked like the oil hole would line up either way. Not knowledgeable about the oil galley mod, but will research it. We did look at the rocker arm assembly and it was correct. We pulled it off and cranked the motor, no oil coming through the head at all. Will look at the head first. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
the top end doesn't need much, as long as there aren't many hours/miles on the new engine, you should be fine. biggest fear is lack of oil to mains/rods/cam...at 70 psi, you prolly had plenty of flow to those areas...
Yea I didn't run it much at all, maybe a total of 15 mins and that was like 2 or 3 min durations. I was waiting like 3 months for a distributor I had ordered from Trollhole. He got some bad ones in and had to change suppliers or something...so that turned out to be a good thing...lol. It sure ran smooth, but will start taking the head off tomorrow.
Got the head pulled, the gasket was on upside down. Now get to put all back together. It was a lot easier putting all that on without fenders and a tub....the plastic pointer in the pic is pointing to the oil passage that feeds oil to the top of the head.
Going back to earlier post-- you stated you had 70 psi oil pressure--that is not good. The internal oil pump relief valve should have limited this pressure to no more than ~55 psi. I might investigate this, as the pump/housing/seals may have suffered some damage if the pressure went this high.--It could even twist the dizzy shaft in two--