rusty rear sill and frame - fixed

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After this point I moved onto drive train... I sand blasted the axels and rebuilt them, I rebuilt the third members and installed ARB lockers. (pics to follow.. probablly)

I sandblasted/ground the remainig rust off the frame and painted all these things..

I am about to use my new centering tool and install my new chromoly birks and rebuilt knuckles, install my new rear disk brake setup. I will need to install the shackle reversal kit before I can mount hte lift springs and these beautiful axels...
 
Great work. My mechanical is nearly done and your post will help me through my body work.
 
Thanks

it will likley be a little while until i can do anymore updates on this...

Plus if anyone who read this knows how to change the title of a thread... it is something I would like to know...:beer:
 
alaskafj said:
Plus if anyone who read this knows how to change the title of a thread... it is something I would like to know...
Click to expand...

Edit the original post, "go advanced" and change it. It will take a while for the externally-visable title to get propagated.
 
...ummm yeah moving my FJ to your work space, you have more of, well everything to include skills >.< I am not worthy. Great looking stuff, I htink I am quite a bit behind you on mine.
 
behind me?

your crazy!! Yes my frame and body look good... but my frame is hanging from my garage ceiling, my axels are not finished, my body is in storage behind my workplace shop, My engine and transmission are under a tarp, and all my spare parts (new accessories) are in my donor vehicle.
Your driving your around... I have another year or so before mine will be mobile...

luckily for me i have a few others that are runable and drrivable... so i dont have to do without.
 
alaskafj said:
your crazy!! Yes my frame and body look good... but my frame is hanging from my garage ceiling, my axels are not finished, my body is in storage behind my workplace shop, My engine and transmission are under a tarp, and all my spare parts (new accessories) are in my donor vehicle.
Your driving your around... I have another year or so before mine will be mobile...

luckily for me i have a few others that are runable and drrivable... so i dont have to do without.
Click to expand...

Well played Sir, well played,:p
 
alaskafj said:
the frame wa rusted through, and the rear spring shackle hanger was about to fall off. I cut it back to good steel and rebuilt the frame.. I took some liberties with the rear cross member... and I like the outcome...

bad frame

New frame and cross member
Click to expand...

The triangle piece that the shackle hanger is welded to; how did you repair that? I have the same problem with mine but not quite as bad as yours. I see the before pictures but how about some after pics. I like what I see though with the rest of the frame mods. I also found those replacement triangle frame pieces on eBay, selller "landcruiserparts" had them for $100 as well as the shackle hangers for $100. Also, is that 16 gauge sheet metal you used to repair the floor and fender wells with? I like it. I'm going to cut the bed of my 78/40 off just behind the seats so I can take it off to get to the frame rot , any suggestions as to were to make the cut? Thanks in advance.
 
Those floor pans looks SWEET. I figured it would be cheaper and more of my own if I build my own pans out of plate.

The lip on the pans looks almost perfect, what did you use? Or how did you do it? Looks like it was made with a break.
 
Floors and what nots

I will go take some picks and show my spring hangers and the triangle plates... it will be a hour or so perhaps...

I fabricated the floors and wheel wells out of 12 & 12 gauge paint-lock steel. I did use a break to make those bends. but it is easy to make small bends like that using a vise. If the jaws of your vice are not as wide as the material you are bending, then sandwich the material between two heavy pieces of angle iron.
 
welding body panels

for all the body panels I have repaired I used 16 ga. paint lock galv steel or black iron. It welds easy and fits the existing metal well. Only the floor panels and wheel wells were heavy. I used 10 and 12 ga material there because that is where my roll cage will be landing.

My frame is currently hanging from the ceiling in my lil garage
FRAME.webp
 
Shackle Hangers

I fabricated the triangle plates from 3/16" steel and broke both sides to add stiffness. I broke the inside edge down 90 degrees and the outside edge up a bit to match the upsweep of the rear bumper/crossmember.

As shown...
Shackle Hanger 1.webp
Shackle Hanger 2.webp
Shackle Hanger 3.webp
 
...

Last pic of the shackle hangers... I apologize these photos were iphone photos and the lense was not very clean apprarently.
Shackle Hanger 4.webp
 
Axels and Lockers

installing lockers and rebuilding the thirds was a lot of fun. It is a little challenging but it turned out well :)

As shown, the axels are as discribed in previous posts, ready to be finished and installed... sitting all lonely in my garage
ARB 2.webp
ARB 3.webp
AXELS.webp
 
rear sill

effjay76 said:
That rear sill that you made is really really nice, how did you make the curved part?
Click to expand...

The best way to make the "horns" on hte rear sill is to use the existing sill. Dont wait until is is completely disintegrated before you fix it (like I did). Mine was completely mangled by the time i got it removed. And the body panel it attached to was pretty poor as well. To get correct curve I rolled some 10 gauge steel up to match the curve of the rear quarter. I needed something stout enough to maintain the curve when using it as a template. I did have just enough of the original rear sill to determine what it was supposed to look like.

I traced the profile of the existing rear sill onto a peice of 3/16 steel. I redrew the curve ( which had all but rusted away) from my 10 ga. template. I clamped another piece of 3/16 under the one with the pattern and cut the two out with a bandsaw. I lieft the together when I ground them smooth. This produced a perfect matching pair top and bottom for one side. When I had massaged it enough that it looked like it would fit. I used one to make a second pattern and repeated the process.

I sheared and rolled a 1-5/8 strip of 3/16 and set it on the outside of the curveand welded it in place.inside and out. Then I ground off the outside weld to make it smoth and seamless.

Since this piece is located against the body, it is off set by aproximately .06" (16 gauge body panel. So fix this I boke a piece of 16 gauge to weld in to the bed and wrap the rear sill (similar to the original construction of back of the bed and the rear sill).

MAke any sense?
MUDPIC 8 sill detail 1.webp
MUDPIC 9 sill detail 2.webp
 
Just finished mine and used 1/4" plate as the wings and wrapped it with 14ga steel. A little overkill but it will hold ANY rack or tire carrier I bolt to it

image-2134809253.webp

As soon my driver side 1/4 panel is in I'll weld the wings to the sill.

I would love to have had mine look as smooth as yours Alaska. It's almost seamless..... Very good work sir.
image-4004359105.webp
image-2134809253.webp
 
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