Rusty executive decision!? (1 Viewer)

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The brown truck of happiness showed up with my radio.

Dylan, how is the radio bracket attached?
 
I used a piece of 1/8" ish aluminum that is shown in tension with the block of wood shimmed in. I think there are 3 small bolts that fasten the piece of aluminum to the rear view mirror mount. There is enough tension in the aluminum that radio does not move at all. The bracket pivots on the piece of aluminum and is double nut'd (that's not a word) to a bolt through the aluminum so that it can swivel back and forth from the driver to passenger side. Sorry for the long winded response. . . .

Dylan
 
I used a piece of 1/8" ish aluminum that is shown in tension with the block of wood shimmed in. I think there are 3 small bolts that fasten the piece of aluminum to the rear view mirror mount. There is enough tension in the aluminum that radio does not move at all. The bracket pivots on the piece of aluminum and is double nut'd (that's not a word) to a bolt through the aluminum so that it can swivel back and forth from the driver to passenger side. Sorry for the long winded response. . . .

Dylan
Thanks. I think you used just enough words. Even made one up to suit the occasion. :flipoff2:
 
I think my brain has formulated a plan. Being kind of a small pot it took awhile to percolate a plan in it. I'm just going to throw it out here to see what the collective wisdom thinks about it.

I think what I'm going to do is swap the differentials with the 4.88 gears and Detroit lockers from the FJ60 into the FJ40 and the differentials with the ARB lockers with the 4.11 gears from the FJ40 into the FJ60.

Here is why;
The FJ40 needs lower gearing because I want to go to a larger tire size, the FJ60 needs higher gearing because it will see a lot more highway miles.

The auto lockers will be a lot easier to deal with on a mostly trail rig, actually they may be better than selectable lockers on the FJ40.

The FJ40 has Longfields which will take the auto locker "snap" better than the stock birfs on the FJ60

It's basically free, all it will cost is a few gallons of gear lube and some Permatex gasket maker.​



Comments?
 
Why do you need lower gears in your 40, don't you still have the toybox and Orion?

It would be ideal to have the 4.88's and ARB's in the 60 with the 4.11's and detroits in the 40 IMO. It would keep a stonger gear set in the 40 (more hardcore rig) and give you some good grunt in the 60 for the occasional hard trail. Unfortunetly this means swapping ring and pinions and introduces $$ into the picture.
I hate decisions like this. . .

Dylan
 
Why will the autos be better than selectables on the 40?

(Gittin my learn on)

Im gonna take a stab and say that it is because the 40 is primarily on the more heavy duty TRAILS where lockers are pretty much always used. So less of a need for OPEN diffs.
The beauty of the selectable locker is the ability to have open diffs on the road, and lock em up when on the trail.
the 60 (from what it seems) will be used for more distance/ expedition type wheeling where there will not be a need for full time lockers.
Why not use the ARB's on both...theyre FU*KING EXPENSIVE. Most people would love to have ARB's, but theyre cost prohibitive. Personally, I LOVE my auto lockers, expecially in the rear. However, I compromised on the front. I would actaully preferred ARB's in the front, but I didnt want to spend the money. If you do Longs, a lunchbox locker (aussie, lockright) AAAAAND a basic hydro assist youll STILL be money ahead than what an arb with install and longs would cost.
So, when I do my V8, Ill be adding the ram assist too.

Something like that...

K
 
Why will the autos be better than selectables on the 40?

(Gittin my learn on)
One less thing to think about. They are just there and work. The disadvantage is they can get the front end bound up when they lock while in an obstacle. The solution is to grind out the shift gate so you can stay in low gear but shift into 2WD long enough to line back up. The 40 has a twin stick set up so I can already do that. Or I can do a hydro assist. The PS box on my 40 is tapped for hydro and I have the ram and all the stuff to set it up.
 
Why do you need lower gears in your 40, don't you still have the toybox and Orion?

It would be ideal to have the 4.88's and ARB's in the 60 with the 4.11's and detroits in the 40 IMO. It would keep a stonger gear set in the 40 (more hardcore rig) and give you some good grunt in the 60 for the occasional hard trail. Unfortunetly this means swapping ring and pinions and introduces $$ into the picture.
I hate decisions like this. . .

Dylan
Lower gears in the differential would reduce stress on the axles and birfields, and I could go to a larger tire size and still have reasonable gearing for the paved roads.
The sixty will be used for longer trips so the higher gearing will be better.
 
Im gonna take a stab and say that it is because the 40 is primarily on the more heavy duty TRAILS where lockers are pretty much always used. So less of a need for OPEN diffs.
The beauty of the selectable locker is the ability to have open diffs on the road, and lock em up when on the trail.
the 60 (from what it seems) will be used for more distance/ expedition type wheeling where there will not be a need for full time lockers.
Why not use the ARB's on both...theyre FU*KING EXPENSIVE. Most people would love to have ARB's, but theyre cost prohibitive. Personally, I LOVE my auto lockers, expecially in the rear. However, I compromised on the front. I would actaully preferred ARB's in the front, but I didnt want to spend the money. If you do Longs, a lunchbox locker (aussie, lockright) AAAAAND a basic hydro assist youll STILL be money ahead than what an arb with install and longs would cost.
So, when I do my V8, Ill be adding the ram assist too.

Something like that...

K
That too.
 
I think my brain has formulated a plan. Being kind of a small pot it took awhile to percolate a plan in it. I'm just going to throw it out here to see what the collective wisdom thinks about it.

I think what I'm going to do is swap the differentials with the 4.88 gears and Detroit lockers from the FJ60 into the FJ40 and the differentials with the ARB lockers with the 4.11 gears from the FJ40 into the FJ60.

Here is why;
The FJ40 needs lower gearing because I want to go to a larger tire size, the FJ60 needs higher gearing because it will see a lot more highway miles.

The auto lockers will be a lot easier to deal with on a mostly trail rig, actually they may be better than selectable lockers on the FJ40.

The FJ40 has Longfields which will take the auto locker "snap" better than the stock birfs on the FJ60

It's basically free, all it will cost is a few gallons of gear lube and some Permatex gasket maker.​



Comments?

That is exactly what I would do. :grinpimp:

The tired 2f in the 40 will really appreciate the additional gearing for the highway, plus the 60 will do a better job of pulling the trailer/highway runs.

Jack
 
I need to make sure the drive shaft flanges will work.


Just rotate the drive shaft 90 degrees, mark and drill new holes for the flanges to bolt up to.

Jack
 
Just rotate the drive shaft 90 degrees, mark and drill new holes for the flanges to bolt up to.

Jack
I should be okay, the companion flanges on the FJ40 diffs are the one size fits all style from High Angle. The front DS on the 40 has stock flanges and the rear has a one size fits all flange on the diff side. It's just one of those things I'd like to make sure of before I start draining 90WT and pulling the diffs. :hillbilly:
 
A couple of things.
After actually taking the rig through Eldorado I don't think I want to screw with it. It drives fine off road and even though it's slow I can live with driving it on the highway.

I did bash one of the rockers a little on the trip. A set of sliders is in the back of the truck ready for install.

I wonder who could weld them on for me?????????????:lol:
 
What sliders did you get?:confused:

K
 

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