Did anyone ever had this issue with rust bobble started to emerge form bottom of rear window seal. I did some rust repairs in the past but newer that close to window seals. Do I have to totally remove the window seal or just lifting the seal and removing all the rust fill it and etc... If you did this before please let me know. Thanks.
Mines so rusted Im getting a rust free hatch sent to me as we speak. If you see rust bubbles on the outside the inner lip under the seal will be rusty which cant be fixed with the window in. It seems that this pinch weld or "lip" is where the rust originates. Ill post pics of my old hatch when I remove the window.
I've got a bubble too. Someone here mentioned POR-15 for rust so I was planning on pulling the gasket and window and touching up the whole lip area with POR-15. I should probably put a new window gasket in while I have it off.
You need to remove the window. If you already see the rust past the seal, there’s a 98% chance you have a hole that will need to be welded up and then primed and painted.
Here’s a “rust free” lift gate that I purchased. You could only see the water stain from where the water would accumulate and drip down from the seal. As soon as i saw that, I knew I had a problem.
A closer look
The window needs to come out for this repair. Besides that, you want to reseal it anyway and make sure it’s done right so it doesn’t rust out again.
The original post in 2010 was discussing the common right side of rear hatch bubble at lower edge.
It sounds like you are talking rear sliding windows when you say both, or maybe you have two 80 series?. If so there are several threads about that as well.
If rusted bad you will have to remove sliding windows and frame. Lcphil has a YouTube video on this. Address the rust as needed and reinstall. I need to do this as well.
Now to prevent the leaks theres an easy thread to follow to remove the window trim moulding and apply rtv to the 4-5 clips and reinstall. This will help prevent water intruision into the rear qurter panels.
The original post in 2010 was discussing the common right side of rear hatch bubble at lower edge.
It sounds like you are talking rear sliding windows when you say both, or maybe you have two 80 series?. If so there are several threads about that as well.
If rusted bad you will have to remove sliding windows and frame. Lcphil has a YouTube video on this. Address the rust as needed and reinstall. I need to do this as well.
Now to prevent the leaks theres an easy thread to follow to remove the window trim moulding and apply rtv to the 4-5 clips and reinstall. This will help prevent water intruision into the rear qurter panels.
The original post in 2010 was discussing the common right side of rear hatch bubble at lower edge.
It sounds like you are talking rear sliding windows when you say both, or maybe you have two 80 series?. If so there are several threads about that as well.
If rusted bad you will have to remove sliding windows and frame. Lcphil has a YouTube video on this. Address the rust as needed and reinstall. I need to do this as well.
Now to prevent the leaks theres an easy thread to follow to remove the window trim moulding and apply rtv to the 4-5 clips and reinstall. This will help prevent water intruision into the rear qurter panels.
thx, I did find the other thread. Mine is a jdm hdj81. Solid quarter windows. Eventually I’ll pull them out to do the fix. Haven’t noticed rear hatch yet but I’m sure it’s starting.
I just found surface rust on the top edge of rear hatch. Should I use POR on that and repaint or take a grinder to it and 3 step paint? I'm not sure if POR is ok on sheet metal.
My DX 80 with fixed glass cargo windows has rust showing around the bottom of both. I'm not able to do anything about it until I can arrange some annual leave to give enough time to remove the windows and properly assess the situation with glass and rubbers out. POR-15 (or the Hirsch 'miracle paint' which is basically the same chemistry) is brilliant but the prep must be done properly for the result to be long-lasting.
I've rust-converted and cheap-painted what I can get to externally a few times but I'm worried it's getting structural under the rubbers. Might have to be a body shop repair job if metal needs cutting out and replacing.
