Rust Bullet Application

[Hobbs]

My truck's previous owner installed a nifty rubber bed mat with thick felt insulation on the bottom. It was a nice mat with great sound deadening qualities and soundproofing as well. I was rather fond of said mat, until one day I lifted and looked underneath...


Lo and behold, RUST !!! Aww crap.


Actually, I was aware of this development when I purchased the truck and I am finally getting around to addressing the issue. I first went to rustbullet.com and ordered one pint of the Automotive version of their product ; $30 (ouch!).

I suspect that R.B. is a knock-off of POR-15. I say this without implicit knowledge, but based on the fact that good products are generally copied by others in order to cash in. This may or may not be the case here.

The documentation included with the product instructs the user to apply directly to bare metal, surface rust (no scale), and paint (prep'd with 100-150 grit paper). The document goes on to say that the paint needs to "soak through the rust to the metal underneath." I believe the product works by converting the rust and making it become part of the paint coating.


I have included pic's of my project and am looking forward to sharing my results.

 

[antFJ]

if you are going through all the trouble to buy a good product (i think rustbullet is as good if not better than POR15 from what i've read although i have no personal experience) I would recommend getting some wire wheels and trying to get to bare metal as much as possible before painting. Those products say they can do those things but they work the best/last the longest when you prep as much as possible.

 

[Hobbs]

I grabbed a couple scrapers, some sandpaper, an air gun, rags, and my camera and headed to the garage. It didn't take me too long to knock down the scale rust and loose paint. I sanded the area, cleaned the debris and dust, and opened up the R.B.

It smells similar to nail polish remover and is sorta thick. It goes on easy but must be forced into the pitting to be able to soak in.

I did, unfortunatly, poke through in a couple of places. I suppose I will look for a bed replacement down the road. I am hoping that the R.B. will stop the rust and give me some time...

Here are more pic's...

 

[Hobbs]

if you are going through all the trouble to buy a good product (i think rustbullet is as good if not better than POR15 from what i've read although i have no personal experience) I would recommend getting some wire wheels and trying to get to bare metal as much as possible before painting. Those products say they can do those things but they work the best/last the longest when you prep as much as possible.

antFJ, I was intending to dig out all of the rust, but when I punched through the bed and found rust in a couple of seams, my motivation ratcheted down a couple of notches. I am looking at a bed replace at some point, although I don't intend to "restore" my 'Cruiser to showroom. I want a solid, reliable truck.

With luck, this application of R.B. will buy me some time.

Here are a few more pic's...

 

[Coolerman]

Having used Rust Bullet extensively (see my web site in my sig) I can give you a few tips.

One: when they say 'no scale' they mean it. The wire wheel is a good choice to remove any loose rust, BUT it smooths the metal. After you wire wheel, go over it with the 100-150 grit paper. The Rust Bullet works best when it has a rough surface to bond to.

Two: If you can reach it, crawl under the truck at the spots where it's rusted through, and remove the loose rust. Then apply a coat of Rust Bullet there also. You can stop the rust on top, but it will rust through from the bottom if not treated.

Three: Remove the sealant at all seams (like where the wheel wells and the bed meet) remove as much rust as possible from the seam (some muriatic acid works really well) then apply a coat of Rust Bullet. If you plan to top coat the Rust Bullet, then replace the sealant before top coating.

Four: Two coats are a must! The best way to ensure full coverage is to buy 1/2 pint of black then a 1/2 pint of silver. The first coat can be either color. When you apply the second opposite color there will be no doubt where you have missed spots!

You have a nice solid bed, protect it now and you can enjoy many more years!

 

[Hobbs]

Having used Rust Bullet extensively (see my web site in my sig) I can give you a few tips.

One: when they say 'no scale' they mean it. The wire wheel is a good choice to remove any loose rust, BUT it smooths the metal. After you wire wheel, go over it with the 100-150 grit paper. The Rust Bullet works best when it has a rough surface to bond to.

Two: If you can reach it, crawl under the truck at the spots where it's rusted through, and remove the loose rust. Then apply a coat of Rust Bullet there also. You can stop the rust on top, but it will rust through from the bottom if not treated.

Three: Remove the sealant at all seams (like where the wheel wells and the bed meet) remove as much rust as possible from the seam (some muriatic acid works really well) then apply a coat of Rust Bullet. If you plan to top coat the Rust Bullet, then replace the sealant before top coating.

Four: Two coats are a must! The best way to ensure full coverage is to buy 1/2 pint of black then a 1/2 pint of silver. The first coat can be either color. When you apply the second opposite color there will be no doubt where you have missed spots!

You have a nice solid bed, protect it now and you can enjoy many more years!

Thanks for the tips, Coolerman. I'll visit your site.

I did remove all scale excepting a vein going down into the seam on the left fenderwell. I may go back and remove the remainder of the sealant on the affected area and see if I can dig out any rust. I probably should treat the bottom of that seam. I found no rust on the bottom of the bed, although I should remove the exhaust shielding for a thorough look.

I also used 100 grit on the whole surface. The instructions do say this is needed for the paint to adhere.

My next order will include a pint of black.

The second picture below shows (poorly) a gap between the bed/left fenderwell. I pushed R.B. down into it for max coverage. I'll hit the bottom side too.

 

[Coolerman]

Ya done good! Are you going to try to match the green or just put a mat over it?

 

[tmarx]

Having used Rust Bullet extensively (see my web site in my sig) I can give you a few tips.

One: when they say 'no scale' they mean it. The wire wheel is a good choice to remove any loose rust, BUT it smooths the metal. After you wire wheel, go over it with the 100-150 grit paper. The Rust Bullet works best when it has a rough surface to bond to.

..

Thanks for the info Coolerman. I am going to sandblast my tub and all panels, before the RB.Do you suggest the grit paper then also or will the surface be rough enough ?

 

[Teebag]

Coolerman, what dilution ratio HCL ?

 

[Coolerman]

Thanks for the info Coolerman. I am going to sandblast my tub and all panels, before the RB.Do you suggest the grit paper then also or will the surface be rough enough ?

No need for sand paper after sand blasting. I sand blasted my frame and several other parts, they came out great after RB was applied.

Coolerman, what dilution ratio HCL ?

You can buy diluted muriatic at Home Depot or Lowe's. If you dilute yourself make it about 50-50. Please be careful with the acid! Remember to always add acid to water not the other way around!

 

[Teebag]

Thanks Coolerman, dont have either here, hence the question re HCL

 

[nspctr1]

And, if it's similar to POR 15, do not get it on your skin unless you wanna wear it for a while. Looks good.

 

[tmarx]

Thanks Coolerman

 

[Kofoed]

I used that stuff in a well vented patio. I was painting hunched over the work and wound up with a nose bleed after 5 minutes. Will be wearing a good respirator next time...

 

[M5driver]

Thanks for the info Coolerman. I am going to sandblast my tub and all panels, before the RB.Do you suggest the grit paper then also or will the surface be rough enough ?

Theo,

If you blast, the RB goes on right over the metal - bonds extremely well. The blasting leaves a surface just rough enough for the RB.


Edit: Gotta learn to read ahead. Coolerman already answered/

 

[Hobbs]

Ya done good! Are you going to try to match the green or just put a mat over it?

I plan on going black with it; no more mats!!! Coolerman, can you recommend a suitable paint to put over the silver R.B., or will I benefit putting R.B. Black over the two coats of silver?

 

[Coolerman]

Rust Bullet can be top coated with any good paint. The Black Rust Bullet is a high gloss black nad is expenxive compared to a can of black enamel.

Anothe optiion is to get your local paint store to mix up some green to match your truck. Some stores can even put it in spray cans.

 

[CMD82]

Hobbs, not to hijack your thread.... But is Rustbullet generally a better product than Rustoleum or POR15? I am planning on doing the same thing you did to my 60 and obviously would like to use the best product.

Thanks for any input.

 

[Hobbs]

Hobbs, not to hijack your thread.... But is Rustbullet generally a better product than Rustoleum or POR15? I am planning on doing the same thing you did to my 60 and obviously would like to use the best product.

Thanks for any input.

CMD82, I can't speak about POR15 because I have not used it, but I have read very good reviews here on 'Mud. I suspect that Rustoleum doesn't hold up to either POR or R.B.. Just my 2 cents.

 

[joeyg1973]

CMD82, I can't speak about POR15 because I have not used it, but I have read very good reviews here on 'Mud. I suspect that Rustoleum doesn't hold up to either POR or R.B.. Just my 2 cents.

I use POR-15 simply because they are right down the road from me here in NJ. It is a pain in the but to apply, if you use a brush you will wind up with brush hairs stuck in your final paint job. Use a sponge brush. It takes 2-3 coats to be effective and you have to apply the next coat while the first one is sticky which is about 20 minutes after you first put it down, otherwise you need to sand it which is not easy. You need to topcoat it with whatever you want right while it is still sticky. They do sell a primer that you spray over dry POR-15 to topcoat it later, but you still need to sand it and you do not want to get this primer anywhere near other paint or plastic as it will peel and ruin it. Also avoid their topcoat paints, they are crap. I used their engine coat on my engine and it is just too thick and it is a pain in the ass to thin it out. Also... It takes forever for it to dry. It did come out looking good, but way way too much work. Better off getting a rattle can, I suggest Plasti-Kote, and apply this after applying POR-15 while it is still sticky.

I have been thinking of using Eastwood's rust converter and rust encapsulator in the future. It is supposed to be much better than POR-15. Plus they sell their rust encapsulator in rattle cans so application is MUCH easier. Eastwood isn't a company that does most of it's buisness with industrial companies that buy in bulk and then also sell their stuff to the auto restore market on the side. They specifically target the auto restoration market and so far I have found the products I have gotten from them to be better. I just got done using their carb renew spray paint on my 4.3 TBI. See the picture below and judge for yourself.

I have never used RB so I can't say anything for it.

I will say this, no matter what you use... all the work in any job that entails painting metal is in the prep that takes hours if not days to get it right. The actual painting is the easiest part of the job.