RTH - Pre-collision and ABS codes

[kcjaz]

So while I was driving down from Ouray to Silverton, planning to just wander around until COTR starts Monday, my dash lights up and says check pre collision system. There was no check engine light so I just kept going till I got to Silverton and pulled the codes. This is what I got.:

I cleared the codes restarted the truck and all seems fine but now I’m spooked as my plan just to go out into the backcountry and camp for two days and I’m solo. When this happened, my four low and CDL lights were blinking. I suspect I would’ve been unable to shift into four low and if I had been in for low. I probably couldn’t shift out.

Anyone got any thoughts on these codes? I’m not sure what I can physically check besides reading them and clearing them.

Edit: codes came back pretty quick after I put it in gear and drove a short distance.

 

[nwfl4runner]

So while I was driving down from Ouray to Silverton, planning to just wander around until COTR starts Monday, my dash lights up and says check pre collision system. There was no check engine light so I just kept going till I got to Silverton and pulled the codes. This is what I got.:
View attachment 4182959
I cleared the codes restarted the truck and all seems fine but now I’m spooked as my plan just to go out into the backcountry and camp for two days and I’m solo. When this happened, my four low and CDL lights were blinking. I suspect I would’ve been unable to shift into four low and if I had been in for low. I probably couldn’t shift out.

Anyone got any thoughts on these codes? I’m not sure what I can physically check besides reading them and clearing them.

Edit: codes came back pretty quick after I put it in gear and drove a short distance.

Your rear wheel bearings ok? Brake fluid level ok?

 

[kcjaz]

Your rear wheel bearings ok? Brake fluid level ok?

Brake fluid is right at the hot min line. I can add some, but it should be OK. I’m about to climb under maybe pull a wheel and check things out. I drove up to Little Molas Lake lake and snagged a potential campsite while screw with this.

Maybe I’ll just have to run down to Durango and go to a dealership

 

[kcjaz]

I set up camp cuz it looked like it was going to rain on me and I can’t run any trails like this anyway. I made an appointment at a dealer in Durango but I can’t get in until Monday morning. I’m debating on if I should try and remove the wheel speed sensor and try to clean it or something. I’m not sure how likely that is to fix the issue plus I may just end up breaking it. If the sensor is bad, its still going to be bad.

 

[GrouchyTech]

It’s likely that you either have a wiring issue or you’ll need a new skid control ECU/master cylinder…

 

[kcjaz]

It’s likely that you either have a wiring issue or you’ll need a new skid control ECU/master cylinder…

I’m at a Firestone now and they are looking at it. I guess I’ll find out. I also have an appointment at the Toyota dealer Monday. I made that one before I found this Firestone that is open on a Sunday.

 

[kcjaz]

Hey @GrouchyTech, where is the ECU? Is it part of the master cylinder assembly?

EDIT: just looked up the price of a master cylinder assembly and it’s $1300 at Serra Toyota. Im sure at Firestone in Durango that will be $2k or more plus labor. My dual air compressor will make the job harder and I don’t really want some tech not familiar with my aftermarket stuff moving the compressor. Ugh. If it’s all that, I may just run as is until I go home. I don’t really want to wheel it as I’ll have to clear codes every time I switch from hi to lo.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Hey @GrouchyTech, where is the ECU? Is it part of the master cylinder assembly?

Yup, box on the side

Edit - when I swapped to 2013 crawl, I found a separate part number for the ECU, but could not find the gaskets it uses to attach to the housing anywhere, not sure you can swap it as a single part

 

[kcjaz]

Yup, box on the side

View attachment 4183618

Edit - when I swapped to 2013 crawl, I found a separate part number for the ECU, but could not find the gaskets it uses to attach to the housing anywhere, not sure you can swap it as a single part

Thanks! I’m just in the lobby at Firestone stewing on this. Looks like you have the Slee compressor bracket too. I think that all has to come out to do the cylinder. If that is what it is, maybe I’ll just take the truck and pull the compressor today and then just keep my appointment at the dealer tomorrow.

 

[kcjaz]

Update: the speed sensor and wheel bearing are bad. Glad it’s not the master cylinder/ECU. Good news is they can fix it today. Price is a bit stupid but give the situation and where Im at, it is what it is. I did pass on the $1000 rear brake job they recommended. I know the brakes are about ready to replace and was planning on doing that this fall.

 

[bloc]

Update: the speed sensor and wheel bearing are bad. Glad it’s not the master cylinder/ECU. Good news is they can fix it today. Price is a bit stupid but give the situation and where Im at, it is what it is. I did pass on the $1000 rear brake job they recommended. I know the brakes are about ready to replace and was planning on doing that this fall.

Genuine Toyota bearing or aftermarket?

If it's Genuine they don't paint the outside of the bearing housing between the brake backing plate and axle housing. That portion is exposed to the elements so it'll corrode quickly. I'd clean it up and get some paint on it when you get back home.

And how many miles? One of mine was toast at 150k but it wasn't bad enough to kill the speed sensor by that point.

 

[kcjaz]

Genuine Toyota bearing or aftermarket?

If it's Genuine they don't paint the outside of the bearing housing between the brake backing plate and axle housing. That portion is exposed to the elements so it'll corrode quickly. I'd clean it up and get some paint on it when you get back home.

And how many miles? One of mine was toast at 150k but it wasn't bad enough to kill the speed sensor by that point.

I asked about Toyota parts but that puts the repair off to Monday or more likely Tuesday. They said the other bearings seem OK. I’m at at 190K, so it’s time. I may just replace them all when I get home. Will paint the aftermarket parts when I get home, thanks for the pro tip. I should have addressed this as PM. The mechanic had trouble getting the bearing out. There were metal fragments. For as many times as I have had the wheels off installing the Kings, I should have noticed it was going out. There were no weird noises and I never notice excessive play. I will say that when I got here (Colorado), I noticed my tires would squeal on pavement hair pins and curves at anything slightly over the posted mph sign. Quite noticeable on 550. I’m wondering if it was the left rear wheel moving around as it was destroying itself. Thats a bit scary if the left real wheel bearing was causing the tire squeal. Lots of places on 550 where a wheel bearing grenading would be bad. At least it was rear.

 

[kcjaz]

Really was time for a new bearing:

 

[bloc]

I asked about Toyota parts but that puts the repair off to Monday or more likely Tuesday. They said the other bearings seem OK. I’m at at 190K, so it’s time. I may just replace them all when I get home. Will paint the aftermarket parts when I get home, thanks for the pro tip. I should have addressed this as PM. The mechanic had trouble getting the bearing out. There were metal fragments. For as many times as I have had the wheels off installing the Kings, I should have noticed it was going out. There were no weird noises and I never notice excessive play. I will say that when I got here (Colorado), I noticed my tires would squeal on pavement hair pins and curves at anything slightly over the posted mph sign. Quite noticeable on 550. I’m wondering if it was the left rear wheel moving around as it was destroying itself. Thats a bit scary if the left real wheel bearing was causing the tire squeal. Lots of places on 550 where a wheel bearing grenading would be bad. At least it was rear.

I don't really see how the bearing going bad would cause any tire squealing.. the alignment would mostly be maintained by the length of the axle shaft. The most movement you'd see would be a few mm of thrust along the axle shaft length.. The bearing design itself is two angled ball-bearing races sandwiched together. The bearings can get really bad but they'd have to lose most of their mass to allow the inner race to slip past one of the outer races due to the differences in diameters.. if they can at all. In a way it's fortunate our ABS sensor is right there on the dust shield of the bearing.. as tolerances open there will be direct contact and that quickly destroys the sensor which triggers a christmas tree.

Also keep in mind the splined end of the shaft is stabilized by the spider gears in the diff. This wouldn't be like a front bearing where one failing would allow the wheel to wobble around in all kinds of directions.

When mine failed it sounded like a rumble that got more and more noticeable as speeds increased. But in my case the damage to the race, caused by one ball that had started to come apart, was all in one relatively small spot. Maybe 25% of the race diameter. So the bearing stayed mostly stable, and there were no indications anything was wrong from manipulating the wheel assembly. Chassis ears ended up helping me track it down.

 

[TeCKis300]

Glad you figured out what's going on.

Just a thought but may want to get the rig on a diet where possible. Carrying this much weight is going to continue to be a liability, with impacts to durability and performance. Yes, I'm guilty of this too for trip weights, but I do try to minimize installed weights. I'm only seriously heavy for freeway work. I'm light when off-road, where dynamic loads can be pretty serious.

Been cleaning out the camper and tossing anything I haven't reached for in a few years.

I changed out my rear bearings at 140k miles preemptively and then we're squeaky clean. At least that gives me piece of mind. I'm due for front hubs soon in my mind even as they've been fine.

 

[bloc]

I remember Kurt saying years ago that they are seeing more of these go bad, often on totally stock rigs. I travel quite light compared to many on this board and as I said I lost my first one at 150.. though I don't know what the PO did with the rig. Seems it's just not as robust a design as other things on this platform.

And same on the fronts.. mine have a lot of miles with no evidence of issues, but it's in the back of my head. I'll probably throw the chassis ears on there soon just to check on them.

 

[kcjaz]

Glad you figured out what's going on.

Just a thought but may want to get the rig on a diet where possible. Carrying this much weight is going to continue to be a liability, with impacts to durability and performance. Yes, I'm guilty of this too for trip weights, but I do try to minimize installed weights. I'm only seriously heavy for freeway work. I'm light when off-road, where dynamic loads can be pretty serious.

Been cleaning out the camper and tossing anything I haven't reached for in a few years.

I changed out my rear bearings at 140k miles preemptively and then we're squeaky clean. At least that gives me piece of mind. I'm due for front hubs soon in my mind even as they've been fine.

Yes, I know I need to loose some weight. At this point though, I’d have to really rethink and then redo the build. My problem is that there really isn’t much bolted on it that I don’t use. Im currently sitting under my heavy a$$ Bush Co awning as it’s raining, I beat the crap out of my BB skids. My TJM front bumper has saved me from a deer strike and protected the engine compartment enabling me to drive home when I went off the road into trees. The Trexboxx drawers and kitchen is awesome. Love my LRA (I do try to keep the aux tank empty when wheeling). I could replace all this stuff with lighter versions but I’m not sure how much weight I’d really save and what I’d give up or compromise doing it.

 

[kcjaz]

Back at the Firestone this morning. I got a couple miles up the road last night and could hear a scraping/swishing noise that was familiar. Pretty sure it’s the left rear e-brake pads or something in the drum. This also happened in April when I had diff work done. Something gets knocked out of position when they pull the axle. Last time I never figured out exactly what it was. I just took it all apart and cleaned everything and reassembled and the noise went away.

 

[bloc]

Back at the Firestone this morning. I got a couple miles up the road last night and could hear a scraping/swishing noise that was familiar. Pretty sure it’s the left rear e-brake pads or something in the drum. This also happened in April when I had diff work done. Something gets knocked out of position when they pull the axle. Last time I never figured out exactly what it was. I just took it all apart and cleaned everything and reassembled and the noise went away.

Does your hand brake lever feel the same as before? Could be a small change in the adjustment of the star wheel

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I remember Kurt saying years ago that they are seeing more of these go bad, often on totally stock rigs. I travel quite light compared to many on this board and as I said I lost my first one at 150.. though I don't know what the PO did with the rig. Seems it's just not as robust a design as other things on this platform.

And same on the fronts.. mine have a lot of miles with no evidence of issues, but it's in the back of my head. I'll probably throw the chassis ears on there soon just to check on them.

We still continue to see regular failures on them, as low as 110k? and stretching out to the upper 200k range. Our RAK200SF kit has become quite popular for this reason. All Japanese/OEM parts including the consumables many shops for get to order and have ready to install.