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- #21
I’m assuming the plug was corroded and blocked in some way. It was starting to come around the threads so I know there was fluid in.
Rotor very hot after 30 minute drive
- Thread starter BigMF
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I’m assuming the plug was corroded and blocked in some way. It was starting to come around the threads so I know there was fluid in.
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- #22
So, I loosened the bolts holding the caliper in and it wouldn’t budge. Tapped it lightly a bit and it loosened up a tad. Was able to slide the top part way off. Below is what I’m seeing. Looks like the pads are pinched tight against the rotor. So, I think that rules out parking brake. Would it be best to just replace the whole caliper (close to 130k miles) for $100-$150 for OEM part or try and un-stick the caliper? Not sure yet if it’s the piston or pin.
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- #23
Also, if I bleed that line now, wouldn’t it release the pressure and open the calipers if that was the problem?
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- #24
Alright, got the caliper off the bracket. Once it was off, I pressed on the brakes to get the piston to move out (based on another post I saw). Almost impossible to push back in with a c-clamp. That is when I noticed that the piston looks skewed. I’m going to guess that is part of the problem is not all of it. Not sure how it could have gotten crooked but it sure looks like it. PS. The red wire is what I'm using to hang it from the frame.
Our slide pins go into rubber boots, very unlikely it’s the pins.
Your pads should touch the surface of the rotor, this is normal. Caliper being a little tight on there is also normal. When I do a brake job with this type I usually grab the caliper and twist it in relation to the flat rotor surface, this usually gives just enough room to slide the caliper off the pads. What isn’t normal, but you may have passed your ability to check, is with both rear tires in the air and the parking brake disengaged, your tires should spin with some light resistance. Pads drag lightly, that’s normal, but if it won’t turn at all by hand your caliper or parking brake is activated for some reason.
Your pads should touch the surface of the rotor, this is normal. Caliper being a little tight on there is also normal. When I do a brake job with this type I usually grab the caliper and twist it in relation to the flat rotor surface, this usually gives just enough room to slide the caliper off the pads. What isn’t normal, but you may have passed your ability to check, is with both rear tires in the air and the parking brake disengaged, your tires should spin with some light resistance. Pads drag lightly, that’s normal, but if it won’t turn at all by hand your caliper or parking brake is activated for some reason.
Also that piston was not skewed before you pressed on the brakes. What happened is without a rotor and pads to resist outward movement the hydraulic system pushed the piston all the way out. The only reason there isn’t fluid everywhere is your dust boot.
For the record pressing on the brake pedal with a caliper not installed onto its bracket with pads and rotor in place is generally a bad idea.
You now risk damaging the caliper, piston, and seal, if you haven’t already with the c clamp, unless you can find a way to clean everything up and press it in straight.
For the record pressing on the brake pedal with a caliper not installed onto its bracket with pads and rotor in place is generally a bad idea.
You now risk damaging the caliper, piston, and seal, if you haven’t already with the c clamp, unless you can find a way to clean everything up and press it in straight.
Also I’m not trying to be rude but I think you might be in over your head on this. At this point the caliper needs to be removed and find a way to keep all the fluid *from* draining, OR, carefully be assembled still attached to the line but if you do that you need to be careful not to push air all through the whole system
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Now that the piston is all the way out and you attempted to get it back in crooked with a c clamp, the piston will be damaged and not seal well and you'll need a new caliper. That's ok, we've all done some things we should not have done along the way. You wanted to bleed the rear brakes anyway, after all!
Your description of the caliper/pads being so tight against the rotor it was difficult to even tap off may be the source of the heat. I'll bet if you replace the caliper you took off and put new pads and pad shims on both rear brakes, all will be well. When you do the pads, don't push the brake pedal with no pads in place! Use the c clamp to get the piston all the way back in the caliper so you can fit the new pads. The little bit of the rotor I can see looks ok, so if I were doing the job, I'll leave the rotors. So, listen to others on here who will have different ideas, but if it were mine (and from what I know right now) I would:
order and replace the caliper
order and replace both sets of rear pads and shims
bleed the brakes
ask questions along the way
enjoy the ride
Your description of the caliper/pads being so tight against the rotor it was difficult to even tap off may be the source of the heat. I'll bet if you replace the caliper you took off and put new pads and pad shims on both rear brakes, all will be well. When you do the pads, don't push the brake pedal with no pads in place! Use the c clamp to get the piston all the way back in the caliper so you can fit the new pads. The little bit of the rotor I can see looks ok, so if I were doing the job, I'll leave the rotors. So, listen to others on here who will have different ideas, but if it were mine (and from what I know right now) I would:
order and replace the caliper
order and replace both sets of rear pads and shims
bleed the brakes
ask questions along the way
enjoy the ride
Also if the parking brake dragging were the heat source I’d expect to see the paint on the rotor hat burnt and bubbling.
If the seal isn’t ruined it is likely possible to adequately clean up the piston and salvage everything. The cylinder bore is harder to repair but in my experience the metal is usually much harder than the piston, so it likely wasn’t damaged too badly.
Still, between the force applied to a crooked piston and whatever was causing the initial heat problem there is a strong case for Sandroad’s recommendation of new caliper and pads. I’d also try to find a way to measure rotor thickness and consider tossing a pair on if they are anywhere near the limit cast into the unit. You already have it 95% of the way there. The one tricky aspect to new rotors is dialing in the parking brake setting.. but the key there is patience and doing your reading first to understand the process.
Still, between the force applied to a crooked piston and whatever was causing the initial heat problem there is a strong case for Sandroad’s recommendation of new caliper and pads. I’d also try to find a way to measure rotor thickness and consider tossing a pair on if they are anywhere near the limit cast into the unit. You already have it 95% of the way there. The one tricky aspect to new rotors is dialing in the parking brake setting.. but the key there is patience and doing your reading first to understand the process.
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- #31
Hey guys, appreciate all the help and advice. I've done some more analysis and research.
1. Jacked up both sides of the truck, left off the parking brake and the wheels turn with little resistance. Also, took the rotor off and checked that it appears to be functioning properly by expanding when the handle is pulled and contracts when the handle is released.
2. Measured the rotor with a ruler and it comes in right at 18mm. The TSM states 18mm is standard. I'm planning on picking up a pair of calipers tomorrow to double-check that thickness. They were replaced a year ago so I'm not surprised that they are of the correct thickness.
3. Below is the list of parts that I believe I need to order and would be very appreciative if anyone has the time to confirm that it looks complete:
Thanks again for all the help guys. I was just in a little bit of a rush this morning trying to figure it out.
1. Jacked up both sides of the truck, left off the parking brake and the wheels turn with little resistance. Also, took the rotor off and checked that it appears to be functioning properly by expanding when the handle is pulled and contracts when the handle is released.
2. Measured the rotor with a ruler and it comes in right at 18mm. The TSM states 18mm is standard. I'm planning on picking up a pair of calipers tomorrow to double-check that thickness. They were replaced a year ago so I'm not surprised that they are of the correct thickness.
3. Below is the list of parts that I believe I need to order and would be very appreciative if anyone has the time to confirm that it looks complete:
- 1x - Cylinder Assembly - 47850-60070 (Does anyone know if this comes with the gasket for the brake line? See below.)
- 1x - Brake Pads - 04466-60120
- 1x - Shim Kit - 04946-60120
- 4x - Number 1 Brake Pad Support Plate/Anti-Rattle Clip - 47816-60080
- 4x - Number 2 Brake Pad Support Plate/Anti-Rattle Clip - 47817-60080
Thanks again for all the help guys. I was just in a little bit of a rush this morning trying to figure it out.
I’m still checking, but I think the cylinder assembly may not be the complete caliper you need. Use the camelback Toyota parts site to make sure you get the complete assembled caliper.
edit: I can’t find an alternative. The cost seems too low. But double check that’s the complete assembled caliper.
edit: I can’t find an alternative. The cost seems too low. But double check that’s the complete assembled caliper.
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- #33
Thank you for taking the time to look. Really appreciate it.
When looking at the Lexus website, it appears to include the piston and pins, unless I'm just reading it incorrectly. My assumption, which may be wrong, is that the items contained within the "box" are contained within the "assembly" that is part number 47850-60070. Regarding the price, the Lexus site has it at $150, Camelback, Toyota has it for $120, and my local dealership (Cool Springs Toyota) has it for $101. However, my local Toyota dealership does NOT have cookies and it's NOT located in Arizona, where I'd much rather be.
When looking at the Lexus website, it appears to include the piston and pins, unless I'm just reading it incorrectly. My assumption, which may be wrong, is that the items contained within the "box" are contained within the "assembly" that is part number 47850-60070. Regarding the price, the Lexus site has it at $150, Camelback, Toyota has it for $120, and my local dealership (Cool Springs Toyota) has it for $101. However, my local Toyota dealership does NOT have cookies and it's NOT located in Arizona, where I'd much rather be.
Now that I see the Lexus site, that looks right. Good work. Amazingly cheap. In that exploded diagram, I don't see the gasket you asked about. You might check further on brake diagrams to find the hose, since the diagram that included the gasket will probably be there.Thank you for taking the time to look. Really appreciate it.
When looking at the Lexus website, it appears to include the piston and pins, unless I'm just reading it incorrectly. My assumption, which may be wrong, is that the items contained within the "box" are contained within the "assembly" that is part number 47850-60070. Regarding the price, the Lexus site has it at $150, Camelback, Toyota has it for $120, and my local dealership (Cool Springs Toyota) has it for $101. However, my local Toyota dealership does NOT have cookies and it's NOT located in Arizona, where I'd much rather be.
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Is the "gasket" just a copper sealing washer? If so, it probably costs pennies; might as well order one, worst case you have a spare part.
Those stainless slider clip thingies often come in a kit (enough for two calipers).
My experience with parts marked as assemblies with Toyota P/Ns matches your assumption; it should include all parts indicated inside the box on the fiche.
Those stainless slider clip thingies often come in a kit (enough for two calipers).
My experience with parts marked as assemblies with Toyota P/Ns matches your assumption; it should include all parts indicated inside the box on the fiche.
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- #36
I finally found the gasket in question. I had to look in the "Brake Tube & Clamp" section on the Lexus site. It is not the cheap copper ones (still only $6.00) that I've seen on some youtube videos. It's more like two washers attached by a metal tab that they go on either side of the hose connection. So, the banjo/union bolt goes through one washer, through the hose, through the other attached washer, then into the caliper assembly.
Part number: 47389-50020
Having the Lexus site is a great cross-reference for our parts. Their diagrams are better in some cases. In fact, the Toyota site doesn't even show a picture of the part for visual confirmation.
I'm going to order the parts today and hopefully get everything by Tuesday, fingers crossed.
Thanks again for all your help guys! I'll let you know how it goes.
Part number: 47389-50020
Having the Lexus site is a great cross-reference for our parts. Their diagrams are better in some cases. In fact, the Toyota site doesn't even show a picture of the part for visual confirmation.
I'm going to order the parts today and hopefully get everything by Tuesday, fingers crossed.
Thanks again for all your help guys! I'll let you know how it goes.
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- #38
Hey guys, I'm still waiting on the parts from Toyota. This is making me nervous because we are going on an 8 hour trip this coming Saturday. My worry is that I won't get the parts until Friday and then will feel rushed to install them which is the last thing I want to do on something as important as the brakes. Also, I won't have the chance to really seat them properly.
So, I ordered a Duralast remanufactured brake caliper assembly from a local Autozone, who had it in stock believe it or not. Upon inspection, it looks identical to the OEM caliper with the exception of some lettering on the cast aluminum. I'm guessing those are perhaps markings to indicate which plant they came from or something similar. Would it be a terrible idea to use the reman part instead of waiting for the "new" part from Toyota? I've read that most reman's are just refurbished OEM parts so I'm thinking this would not be such a bad thing and I could get started on the install tomorrow instead of Thursday or Friday. An added bonus is that it was only half the price of the OEM part.
So, I ordered a Duralast remanufactured brake caliper assembly from a local Autozone, who had it in stock believe it or not. Upon inspection, it looks identical to the OEM caliper with the exception of some lettering on the cast aluminum. I'm guessing those are perhaps markings to indicate which plant they came from or something similar. Would it be a terrible idea to use the reman part instead of waiting for the "new" part from Toyota? I've read that most reman's are just refurbished OEM parts so I'm thinking this would not be such a bad thing and I could get started on the install tomorrow instead of Thursday or Friday. An added bonus is that it was only half the price of the OEM part.
Thanks. My problem right now is that I’m 30 min from home.
I have experienced this before and driving slow or not at all and tromping on and letting off the brakes a few times freed up the caliper.